peter_n1664876959 Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 A "new to me" Summicron DR was on my doorstep when I got home tonight. There seems to be three mechanical problemswith it: (1) The focus ring is loose on the barrel, you can turn it back and forth a bit but the focus doesn'tchange. (2) Mounting and dismounting it on my MP has proved a bit dodgy - at one point I couldn't get it offthe camera, it moved a little but seemed to be stuck. Somehow I got it off - I know not how. (3) For the lifeof me I can't mount the goggle piece on the lens, it just won't go on. Are these things something to be worried about? Are they indicative of an accident like the lens being dropped(no outward sign of this), or perhaps really hard use? The loose focus ring does worry me a bit... Or should Ijust stop being a worrywart and send it to DAG for a good CLA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark-j Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Some of these problems are specific to the DR Summicron and it's design. I only mount or dismount the lens when it is set at infinity. When set to the near range, the cam angle is such that it tends to hang up on the rangefinder cam. The goggles can only be mounted when the lens is set to the maximum distance of the near focus range. The little ball bearing on top is only released when the lens is in the near focus range. The focus will only move within the near focus range when the ball is depressed. This is done when the goggles are mounted. The focus ring being loose on the barrel is another issue. Mark J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_n1664876959 Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 Thanks Mark. The ball bearing on the top plate doesn't release at all and that's why I can't get the goggles on. I think maybe the focus ring, in addition to being loose, is also mis-aligned with respect to it's proper position on the barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob F. Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 You have to pull the ring forward and move the tab on the focus ring around to the other side of the fixed tab. That's when the ball releases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Pull out the focus and turn to the greatest distance in the near range. The ball can now be depresed by finger pressure or the goggles. I would return it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookupinwonder Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Others have pointed out how the relase the ball bearing. It really isn't as complicated as it may sound. Dunno what you payed for it, but as the glass is any good, I would keep it. Have it cleaned by an expert and enjoy. My own DR is quite dirty and used (glass is clean and without scratches though), but mechanically it still works, though not as smooth as you would expect. I had trouble figuring out the goggles and focus ranges too. Try if the advice given here works for you, then shoot some rolls. My Summicron DR is without any shadow of a doubt the best lens I have ever used. Period. A new lens may be better, but outstanding it still is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_bud Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 There are different versions of the googles for different lens serial #'s, your set may be mismatched. BTW, return the lens if the loose focus ring was not mentioned. There are LOTS of DR lenses available. Don't purchase junk or allow yourself to be sold junk.-Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbon_dragon Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 You probably know this already, but ... you have to mount the DR without the goggles on the camera (I used an M2). Then you have to focus all the way to the center so the tab comes against the center stop and then pull gently forward and over the tab to the other side. Then you can mount the goggles. You have to do the whole thing in reverse to get it off. I would imagine it's possible to damage the lens and/or the camera by doing things in the wrong order. I just sold my DR within the last week or so. I still have my M2s but didn't use it much and I have the modern version of the 50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew1 Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Others have correctly addressed the issue of mounting the close focus goggles, but the fact that the focus ring is loose indicates that the lens needs service. Unless you bought the lens As-Is and knowing it might need work, I'd probably ask the seller to take care of the repair, or at least split the bill with you.<p>As for where to send it, I don't think I'd go with DAG right now; while he certainly does excellent work, he seems to be really swamped right now. I've heard of too many people waiting months for work to be done. I'd send it to Sherry Krauter/Golden Touch, Essex Camera, or Focal Point, all of whom are known quantities in the Leica community as folks who do excellent lens repair work.<p>Someone else mentioned this, but I want to remind you- you really should mount and dis-mount the DR focused to infinity, especially with newer M's. The close focus cam can hang up on the light baffle in metered cameras, and could potentially damage either the camera or the lens. The DR won't mount on some of the early M6's, since the baffle was larger in them. Even with old pre-metered bodies, mounting and dis-mounting the DR should be done with some care, as the larger cam sticks out more than other lenses. Always do it focused to infinity.<p>Once you get the focus ring issue sorted out, I bet you will love your new DR. It's one of the best lenses Leitz ever made. It's a great performer, with excellent sharpness and wonderful contrast. It doesn't have the "bite" that many newer designs show, but this is actually a good thing, especially with negatives (both color and especially in black and white)- the lower contrast means you actually get more detail at the high and low ends. You can print to the contrast you want, but the highlights and shadows will both show more detail through-out their ranges. More modern lens designs which give higher contrast are designed to maximize what you see on chromes, with their shorter curves, to give richer blacks and brighter whites in the compressed range (as compared to negatives) of slide film. Not that these older designs with lower contrast coatings won't shoot nice positives, but IMO they really shine with negatives. So get your DR sorted out, and enjoy it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbon_dragon Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 I've had lenses repaired by Focal Point and have always had excellent service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_n1664876959 Posted June 26, 2008 Author Share Posted June 26, 2008 Thank you all so much for the time you spent educating me! Now I can get the goggles on and off and also know how to mount the thing. I had no idea this was all so complicated... I <i>am</i> somewhat disappointed with the mechanical condition of this lens as the seller didn't mention the loose focus ring at all. However it seems none of you think that the loose ring is a huge problem so I am inclined to keep it as the glass looks reasonable. I am familiar with what this lens can do as I have a type 1 rigid Summicron and this is meant as a replacement for that lens (the infinity lock drives me nuts). I do have a number of the modern ASPH lenses but like many of you I like the look of the older lenses much more. Sharpness isn't everything. I'll email the seller tonight and point out the defects and see what he says. Thanks again! ~Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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