keith_lubow Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Both of them will do the job. I have used them both extensively. Both AF fine. One is half a stop faster, and over $1,000 more than the other. Is 1/2 stop worth $1,100 dollars to you? That is the only thing you need to consider. Personally, I love the 1.2 for that 1/2 stop, but most importantly the L build quality. Metal body, built like brick you-know-what house. But I owned the 1.4 first, and it does almost everything the 1.2 does. I would recommend starting with the 1.4. you can't lose! If you need more, get the 1.2 later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Michael Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Firstly, I think whatever lens you decide upon you should consider adapting `pre focus point` to your shooting technique. That kinda neutralizes the `which lens focuses more quickly` debate. Secondly, I am not about to go too far out on a limb and quantify it: but the XTi (compared to a 1 series for example) will also be a limiting factor regarding speed of continuous focus in very low light. I use the EF50mmF1.4 and the EF85mmF1.8 in low light at night, for indoor sport (not horses, swimmers), mostly on a 20D. Some municipal pools are very poorly and unevenly lit. My point is, both the horses and the swimmers follow a set path (in all the horse shows I have seen, though I am not expert in this area) and both have mostly at an even gait or rhythm (at specific points around the course). On an APS-C, a 50mm lens focused at a distance of 20ft will get the whole horse, full stride, at a 90 degree angle: (horizontal FoV about 12ft). And you have nearly 4ft 8inches DoF at F2. And about 2ft 9 inches at F1.4. So shooting side on you would be fairly safe with a pre focus point. Head on shooting, in a FREE stride area (i.e. I mean where there is no obstacle or jump etc upon which to focus), could be a little more difficult. But assuming you are in sync with the horses` rhythm, it should present no more difficulty than I have, finding the spot (in advance) where the butterfly swimmer`s stroke will be correct for my image. I have found in very low light situations, for subjects following a predetermined path: pre focus point technique AND awareness of DoF limits produces substantially better and more consistent results from my 20D, (with every lens I own), than any other focussing method. I shoot all swimming meets without Flash: it is not allowed. WW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yakim_peled1 Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 >> Secondly, I am not about to go too far out on a limb and quantify it: but the XTi (compared to a 1 series for example) will also be a limiting factor regarding speed of continuous focus in very low light. Good point. Use the middle AF point and AF assist as much as possible. Happy shooting, Yakim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ci_p Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Definitely look at the body for better AF in low light. Certainly from 1DMk2 to Mk3 it has improved quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e.s._shiew Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Maybe you need to step up to a D40 or a better camera for better ISO setting and noise, plus faster motor drive speed. Or maybe use a slower sync shutter speed, like 1/125th, when you using 580 II flash. XTi top sync speed is 1/200, D40 is 1/250th. 1.2 is defintely better than 1.4 lens, quality and hefty price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rddelliott Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Kim: If you are going to make money at action sports,you need a better camera body, 40D or better yet 1D Series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kim_angel Posted June 24, 2008 Author Share Posted June 24, 2008 I really appreciate all the replies. I was reading that Canon will be releasing a new body to replace the 5D this fall. Should I wait on the new body or go ahead and get the 40D now? I am assuming that the new camera will trump the 5D and 40D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kim_angel Posted June 24, 2008 Author Share Posted June 24, 2008 I really appreciate all the replies. Everyone has been very helpful. I was reading that Canon will be releasing a new body to replace the 5D this fall. Should I wait on the new body or go ahead and get the 40D now? I am assuming that the new camera will trump the 5D and 40D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith_lubow Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Be sure to look at older bodies before you decide. Pretty much every camera in Canon's and Nikon's digital lineups, past and present, is a great camera, but if you want to spend that much, I would opt for a used 1D Mk. II or Mk IIN for what you are doing. (Personally, I would even rather have a 1D Mk. I (now under $500) than a 5D or 40D if I was doing what you are doing, but a lot of people whine about this camera because of the resolution, the high ISO chromatic noise, and lack of certain other features.) The Mk. IINs are under $2,000 now, and put 5D, its successor, and 40D to shame in many aspects use. After using one, it is really hard to get used to the relative sluggishness of the other bodies! But I see no reason your XTi can't do the job f you get good at using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Michael Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 > Should I wait on the new body or go ahead and get the 40D now? I am assuming that the new camera will trump the 5D and 40D. < Frankly, if you do have the money, then investigating the Canon 1D series range would be a better option, especially if you are in the USA, where there are seems to be many more quality second hand buys, than where I am located. If you decide on a 5D, (and perhaps if you decide on a 1D series) then you should note you will be looking at the 85mm lenses to give roughly the same FoV. (as the 50mm we are discussing) I do NOT agree, however, that you necessarily NEED a 1D series camera to make money from sports action: I use a 20D and make money, for example. Respectfully: I think you might be of the opinion that throwing money at the situation will automatically make for better photography: in that regard I suggest you re read my previous post in this thread. WW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yakim_peled1 Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 >> I was reading that Canon will be releasing a new body to replace the 5D this fall. Should I wait on the new body or go ahead and get the 40D now? I am assuming that the new camera will trump the 5D and 40D. 1. It is probable but no one actually knows. 2. It is also very likely much more expensive than both. What is your total budget? Happy shooting, Yakim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yakim_peled1 Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 >> I was reading that Canon will be releasing a new body to replace the 5D this fall. Should I wait on the new body or go ahead and get the 40D now? I am assuming that the new camera will trump the 5D and 40D. 1. It is probable but no one actually knows. 2. It is also very likely much more expensive than both. What is your total budget? Happy shooting, Yakim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott cook photography Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 <p>The 50mm 1.2 is a beautiful lens<br> http://www.scottcookphotography.com</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now