Any tips for to help older guys like me get the focus right when using older fast primes wide open?

[laverephoto]

The focus confirmation light in the viewfinder is very helpful with manual focus. If you are in single focus mode on the body you can

hold down the release button and manually focus and the shutter will release at the precise moment that the subject comes into focus.

You can also use the confirmation light in manual focus mode. In either case the light is more accurate that the photographer even with

young eyes. One problem with shooting wide open is that at f 2.0 for a portrait you may only have a "sharp" depth of field for about 3 or

4 millimeters from front to back. I'll bet a billion bucks your subject can't hold that still between the time you focus and expose. I'll also

bet you cant hold that still without a tripod. Slight movements between the time you focus and then pull the trigger will account for a

very high percentage of error. Holding steady at less than half a centimeter margin of error is what we are up against here. On another

note, none of my lenses (all good Nikons) are as sharp wide open as they are at f 4.0. The sharpest point will appear gauzy and less

saturated and contrast will suffer. It is just the physics of optics. My strategy is to shoot stopped down at least one stop from wide

open, and take a lot of exposures. I would cross my fingers, but I usually need both hands. The D3 might actually make your life worse

since the depth of field will be shallower for the same view of the subject.

[laverephoto]

I should also mention that you should use the closest focus point whenever possible because the old focus and recompose

technique will cause enough error to make things worse. That is one reason I don't think the split screen is a very good

option unless your focus point will be in the middle of the frame all the time. Focusing and recomposing is all you need to

do to lose that less than half a centimeter sweet spot you are hunting for.

[jwallphoto]

If there is no critically focused point in the entire image (you're not front-focused or back-focused), I would guess that

Philip Turner is on the right track. The problem might not be your eyes, but your hands. As for me, I went AF. ;)

[nicholaspoole]

digital cameras blow with manual focus lenses. end of discussion. the viewfinders are dark, there is no getting around it. even the brightest of digi viewfinders are dark in comparisson to there film counterparts. your s3 was intended for autofocus lenses, why not use autofocus primes.

 

but the main reason for your lack of focus is shooting wide open. 1.2 will give you an almost non existent depth of field..

[fuego-cito]

I am also experience difficulties shooting with mf prime lens with a D300, I almost no sharp points when shooting at F/1.4(50mm) and 1.8(105mm) This is with the camera mounted on tripod, and very careful focusing. Not only that, I am getting extreme edge purple fringing/glowing softness when shooting at wide open, it improves as I stop down...

 

I realize DOF is extremely limited when shooting at wide open, but with film I get at least usable images but not so with digital thus far...:-(

 

What is the mechanical difference with lens forming images on film vs on CCD, do I really have to ditch these solidly made MF prime lenses for those more plastic new AF lenes???

[Jim_Tardio]

<i>If you do get a D300 or D3 you can use LiveView mode. Then you can zoom in on what you want to focus on with the rear LCD screen then you'd know for sure you were in focus.</i>

<p>

This is probably the worst way you can do it. Not only is it slow, you have to always hope you have optimal light to even see the LCD. Installing a Katzeye screen is your best option. It will help immediately.