steve_clark1 Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 Anyone have experience printing on a regular basis with a point light source enlarger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug_paramore Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 It is more enjoyable to jump naked into a bed of cactus. It is great, however, if you like dust spots, contrast and other stuff which makes you throw prints away. <p> Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil_brammer Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 I have not, and cannot see any advantages that a point source enlarger would provide. Parrallel light rays are what you want going through your negative/transparency, a point source of light is the worst place to start! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_smith Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 It is my understanding that Brett Weston used one of these when he enlarged so he could get the sharpest image possible. Someone more familiar with his technique please add to this if I am misinformed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valery_axenov Posted November 26, 2001 Share Posted November 26, 2001 Hi Steve, <p> What do you want to know about point light source? I use DeVere 203 with point light source (similar to what Odyssey- Sales offer with DV504 model). Point lamp 48 watt/6volt from DV504, Rodenstock 120mm condenser set. I use it for 70% of my final prints with my 35mm system (Canon F1N 24/1.4L, 50/1.2L, 85/1.2L). MF and LF negatives have less grain dimension if you consider final print. This is good idea in respect of 35mm because you have additional micro-resolution (micro-contrast) interest inside of your final print. <p> This technique has it own philosophy. And point of view about dust, contrast, etc is quite stupid approach. I don't understand people to be serious in photography and fault to keep negatives absolutely clean. <p> The main reason is to include resolution of film grain to you final print as visual technique only. Main idea is to have control over silver grain form and dimension in your final print. This to be subject of calculation and test. Contrast is not a big problem; it possible to compensated this with film dev. tech. and VC filters to have virtually very close image quality to any diffused light source. <p> This is absolutely great technique as any other to be professionally used. <p> pls email or ask any tech. questions here <p> regards, Valery Axenov (bene_usa@waw.pdi.net) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_elliott1 Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 I made my own point source light for my D-2. I agree with some above comments, mainly the one about complaining about having to worry about dust etc. The reason I like the point source is that when you see the razor sharp gain of the print, corner to corner and dead center, like you would have with a perfectly allingned enlarger and using glass plate, if the image then is out of focus, IT IS OUT OF FOCUS and go redo the shot. The prints are SHARP, SHARP, SHARP, and viewed at the correct viewing distance you do not see the grain, only an extreamly sharp print. You do not use the f-stops to control the exposure only time and with a reostat the brightness of the light. Now brightness then produces and exposure problem with VC papers so I only use it with graded papers. Your technique must be FLAWLESS for if not, then your prints just will not make it. The bit of grain sharpness: I had an art director stop looking at my portfolio when he discovered the print grain was not sharp corner to corner. Back to glass carriers with point source. Even though I had six surfaces to keep clean the final prints were worth it. I say go for it and if you eventually do not think it worth the effort, at least it will improve your over all darkroom work habits. Yours, Tom Elliott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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