Shooting indoors with a 85 f/1.8?

[cindy_stephenson]

I need some quick info/advise. I have a crop body (Canon 40D). I need to take

some individual shots of employees in an office setting. There will be natural

lighting from windows and I have a constant light and 5-1 reflector I can take along

if needed. I have a 85 f/1.8 prime lens, a 17-85IS 4-5.6, and a 70-200 f/2.8.

I also will be shooting a 5-6 person group shot. Question...should I use the 85

f/1.8 with natural lighting for the individual head/shoulder shots? Then maybe the

17-85 for the group shot? Any advise on settings and lighting with what I have to

work with? Thanks To All You Pro's for helping us beginners out!

[willhl]

<p>In terms of focal length I think you've got it about right but the issue will be the light, and not necessarily the quantity, more the colour.</p>

 

<p>In general terms:<br>

-Sunlight is white<br>

-Camera flash is white<br>

-Incandescent lights are orange<br>

-Florescent lights are green<br></p>

 

<p>digital cameras white balance can correct for any one of these (and other colours) but only balance for one. I.e. if you have sunlight lighting one side and of a person and florescent on the other with the cameras white balance set to sunlight then the fluro side will look green. So Iﾒd take your camera around and snap some sample shots (while checking to see if you can get the shutter speeds you need. You may find that you need to exclude one of the light sources from the photos. Couple of links that may assist you.</p>

 

<p>http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/white-balance.htm</br>

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-using-gels-to-correct.html</p>

[cindy_stephenson]

Another note to my question: I have a ExpoDisc White Balance Filter.

[dave_holland]

The equipment is fine, if the skill set is there. Turn all florescent lights off. Try to work beside a north facing window, or maybe outdoors in the shade. If you are going to use the reflector you will usually need an assistant to hold it at the correct angle. Most people find the environmental, custom portrait more interesting, but it will take more preparation and ability to think creatively on your feet. I find that's not so easy when you are given limited time and the pressures of an audience. Bounced flash and a tripod can be useful friends.

 

Dave

[danielransom]

I would say use the 17-85 with external flash for all shots. It was my fave lens until I got

the Canon 17-55mm f 2.8. The 85mm might be too long for an office setting. Many of my

portraits are within the 17-24mm range. You can bokeh (blur) the background by varying

camera proximity to the subject, or by having a far off background. You can see that you

are getting bokeh in the viewfinder, though it is hard to judge it's full effect. You can also

use a neutral background, such as a sheet, paper, etc. if you don't need background

subject matter.

If you don't have an external flash, go get one. I refer to onboard flashes as "nightlights".

They unfortunately, serve about as much function.

So, back to your problem. Go early to the shoot, and check each lens against the

camera meters. Learn to use your histograms. You may be able to shoot natural light

with the 17-85. I have shot many romantic pics using only window light and the 17-85.

Note: they were romantic, not highlighted professional shots. Use a tripod, or any sturdy

object and you can shoot easily at 1/40th shutter speed, thus enhancing aperture size.

As always, shoot in RAW and JPEG. If you can't shoot with the 17-85, than you may

need to crop heavily, hense the value of the RAW files.

Watch out for phlorescent lighting. They run on the same 60 cycles as does alternating

current. You need to set your shutter speed at some multiple of 60, or you stand a

chance of getting off colors or even stranger results.

[cindy_stephenson]

What flash and tripod would you recommend for the 40D?

[willhl]

Unless you are wanting to play with manual flash setting you will probalby want a 430EX or if you want more light and have the $$ then a 580EX. If you wanted to try second hand you could get a 420EX (no full manual controls if you think you might need them in future) or a 550EX.

[danielransom]

I fear I have opened a can of worms for you by my earlier response. Flash photography

is a craft learned over much time. You most probably cannot walk into a shoot with a

new flash and get good results. So I pulled out my trusty 17-85, loaded it onto my 30D,

put the cam into manual at 1/50th, f 5.6 ISO 640, and popped up the onboard flash,

Shoooting in a medium dark room, with three incadecent lights on in evening hours, I got

pretty decent results. I was actually pretty surprised. Your 40D should do better.

So, some basic parameters:

1/50th of a second shutter speed is about as slow you can shoot hand held.

Fstop 5.6 is the first stop that extends into infinity. Check forums on this site for more info.

Develop your ISO around shutter speed and fstop, not vice versa.

A simple trick with onboard flash is to diffuse it. Hold a white card under the flash while

shooting to direct it up to the ceiling. This is much like the function of external flashes. If

you buy an external flash, get something like a Stoffen diffuser. This helps to reduce

glare.