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Bubble level for camera or tripod


roger___3

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I have a Tachihara 4x5 and use the Bogen hex plate quick release. I would like to attach a bubble level to one of these. I've noticed that Adorama has inexpensive Hama bubble levels that seem to fit this purpose. They do appear to protude somewhat if attached to the top of the camera, and I have concerns about it being broken off as I pack the camera in a day pack with much jostling. I'm wondering if others have found a good method and style of bubble level for either the camera or tripod head? I've considered buying a cheap level at home depot and silconing the bubbles to tripod head? Don't know how this might work.
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I use wisner cameras that have two bubbles on them, but none on the

lens plane. So I glued a small piece of metal to the lens plane and a

small magnet to the kind of bubble that Linhof markets for the

Tecnikardan. The bubble is available from Brandeis Kalt and is

inexpensive and accurate. That combination is quite good. I check

the small piece of metal to insure its depth and cross check the

metal + magnet + level for accuracy before gluing the metal to the

camera. Thus far, 7 years and more images that I want to count or can

print, I have had no problems.

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Roger, It will be much quicker to set your camera up with the level

mounted to the camera. Go to your local off the wall ACE hardware

store and buy a cheap bubble level and some double sided tape. Mount

the level to the top of the body. I wouldn't think you will have

spent $7 bucks and the tape probably cost the most. The accuracy of a

cheap level is more than suffice.

Regards, Steve

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Well I see that we all got similar results in different ways. I have a

tachihara 8"x10" and have glued two bubble levels which I had bought at

a camera store for a reasoneble price. I mounted(glued) a large one on

the back and a tiny one on the front. It looks very nice and works

perfect, however, pay attention to the fact that bubble levels are not

as precise as they should be and that you should alline the two in a

direction which is congruous. I mean when you turn such a level you

will see that the bubble isn't always pointing the same direction so

make sure that the two front and back are pointing to the same

direction or being in the middle at the same time for front and back.

Repeat this at several flange extensions to make sure that these are

o.k.

Should they not be o.k. (field cameras tend to have slight tollerance

errors) alline them at the flange distance which you use the most.

Regards

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Roger - As you no doubt have noticed, there isn't much room on the

top of the rear standard to glue anything. The carrying strap tends

to get in the way.I glued the Adorama level to the top of the rear

standard of my Tachihara. Shortly after that I started getting light

leaks. It drove me crazy until I realized that the level protruded

ever so slightly over the top and was keeping the back from full

closing when a holder was in place. The protrusion was so small that

it was barely visible but it was enough to cause leaks. So you need

to be careful when trying to fit the level into the small available

space on the top of the rear standard.

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