Mirror Lock up in the varios 645afd models incl P1

[lightminer]

I have a 645afd. To use mirror lock up, I compose my image, then hit the

recessed button near the dial to lock shutter speed, and turn an awkward

Mirror Lock-Up dial (well, akward when you have the Kirk L-Bracket), and take

a pic, then push the mirror lock up back down, and release the recessed button

again (once in a blue moon I forget that and then the rest of the exposures

are off until I remember!). If I want to bracket I don't use the auto-bracket

feature because it only allows a 1-stop up and down bracketing - when I use

negative film (160C) I can barely tell the difference, so I use the three

stops available on the switch on the upper viewfinder section, one pic at 0,

+3, and -3. Luckily, the mirror-lock up will stay in place while I take these

3 pics. When/if I want to do 0, +4, -4 or even 5, you have to do it manually

and set and unset the recessed button and lock-up for each picture - very

painful. Keeps me at +3/-3 most of the time :).

 

If they would simply raise the options in the auto-bracketing feature from a

high of 1 to a high of 3 or 5, then I could just hit one button and get all my

needs taken care of.

 

 

I know they changed the process for 645 afdII and I'm not sure but it may have

been changed again for the afdIII and/or Phase One implementation. I can see

a 'MUP' shutter button selection next to L/S/C but don't know what the

implications are.

 

 

Assuming that I want to use mirror lockup for virtually all images (I do

landscape/architecture, not people), what is workflow for afdII and III/P1 for

normal shooting (no bracketing), and what is workflow for bracketing at 0, -3,

+3 as well as 0, -5, +5.

 

I assume with high-end Digital Backs that also have huge dynamic range they

might also be interested in more than the 3 stops as well - am I wrong? Or

are 3 sufficient for most people?

 

 

Thanks!

[rodeo_joe1]

What? Is this a wind-up? Who would want more than a +/- 3 stop bracket? Are you metering your exposures with a wet finger or just guessing with your eyes closed?

 

6 stops takes you through almost the entire available exposure range of a B&W film, and well beyond the useable range of colour slide film. If you want any more exposure control there are those funny controls round the lens and on the camera body that control things called the "aperture" and the "shutter speed".

[lightminer]

Yes - I indicated that when/if I want to do more than 3 I do it manually (shutter speed in my case as I prefer aperture priority shooting style), and then that requires all the extra button pushing for mirror lock up and you end up with like 6 button presses or knob turns for each picture compared to 2 for using the dial on the viewfinder.

 

If I can find the time I will prepare and post images to show why I like to go beyond 3, but may not - next 5 days are super busy for me and it would take time to prepare.

 

I will take it as noted that you are very happy with +/-3 - that is one of my questions.

 

Thanks!

[lightminer]

Hey just realized something. I'm not really getting 6 stops out of the +/-3 settings. Using negative film, I rarely get unacceptable blowouts on the higher range (although I'll give one example where I do). Its usually better shadow detail I want. So, the meter gives me the 0 value, and I do the -3. So I might be able to use ael to somehow set the 0 at the +3 by using spot and locking exposure at a different place and then use -3 as -6.... Hmmm... Sounds complicated, but an idea.

 

Okay - I'm not going to post pics, takes too long, but here are some examples where we should all be able to agree that +/-3 don't come close to working: 1) Had a great pic during Christmas of a park with lights all around it and a great moon behind it. The moon, even at -3, was a total blowout on negative film (I always shoot negative film on my night shots), I should have used -6 or -9. A second example is waterfall pics where the sun is bouncing right off the water into the lense, and there are deep shadows along rocks inbetween me and the waterfall... at +3 those shadowy dark areas are still much darker than I would like.

 

 

Okay - and the original question here remains - what is mirror lock up procedure when one is bracketing for AFDII and Phase One Mamiya. Anyone know?

 

I downloaded the AFDII manual, and the mirror lock up is on a button on the top, it seems you push it and for 30 or 60 seconds can do whatever you want with the mirror locked up? It wasn't completely clear to me. If I'm doing a -3, 0, +3, what is fastest process to do that?

[bill_caulfeild_browne]

I use the AFD II with the P45+.

 

I find it much simpler to use mirror lock up for the metered exposure using Manual

exposure. Then I check the histogram and adjust the manual exposure as needed.

 

Other than the speed advantage of using auto bracketing, I rarely see any need for it when

you are using a digital back/histogram.

 

Bill

[rich_morgan1]

I agree with Bill. I use the AFD with a digital back. Just set it to manual. Set exposure.

Check histogram. Adjust exposure. Lock up mirror. Take exposure. Piece of cake.

[lightminer]

I've played with it - that works great. On any of them. The main reason it works well is you get the +1/+2 etc. in the window, that actually makes the braketing thing really easy.

 

Anyone with afdIII know how mirror lock up works?

[bill_caulfeild_browne]

To the best of my knowledge nobody yet has an AFD III. I have one on order and am told the

first deliveries will be in June/July.

 

I do know several functions like the exposure compensation switch have been moved off the

viewfinder to the LCD menu. I hope this does not apply to the MLU!

 

Bill

[bill_caulfeild_browne]

Addendum. According to the Phase One site, the new camera (Phase One or AFD III) will have

MLU as part of the power switch. Sounds like it will still be one easy step.

Bill

[lightminer]

Cool. Yeah - I thought so, you can see the letters MLU on the button in the photos of the new camera when you enlarge them. I wonder if it auto-engages AEL, or if you still have to hit the AEL recessed button? I understand the AEL need, but it would be nice to be able to just move it into MLU mode, shoot, and go back to S. I guess we'll find out the exact workflow in a month or so!

 

 

BTW, I had a moon image the other night bracketed at -6 and still didn't get clear moon. Should have gone to -9 or -12...

 

Here are 2 shots also taken that night with a blooming moon (rather than cut, precise moon - although it this case not necessarily better to have the -9/-12 version - the bloom might be considered nice):

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/7102262&size=lg

 

and

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/7102171&size=lg

[lightminer]

This is along the lines of what I was looking for:

 

A more real concern is a problem with the way in which mirror lock-up works. When set to the MLU position the first press of the shutter release (button or via electronic cable release) moves the mirror up, and the second actuates the shutter. What I quickly discovered is that if you press the shutter button the second time for a fraction of a second too long, the mirror will pop up again after the exposure rather than simply return to the viewing position. This must have happened to me 20 times in one week, so it's clearly more than just an occasional issue. According to Phase One this problem was missed during initial testing and will be corrected as production of the camera ramps up.

 

I was also a bit frustrated by how the MLU and self timer work in combination. One turns on the self time and selects the duration, from 2 seconds to 60 seconds. So far, so good. But then to take a shot with MLU one needs to press the shutter release to raise the mirror, and then press it again to activate the self timer. Once I understood how it worked, it worked, but it was annoying to have to remember to press the release a second time, unlike any other camera with which I am familiar, all of which only require one press.

 

 

from a review of the P1 here:

 

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/phase645.shtml

[bill_caulfeild_browne]

The great advantage of MLU with the AFD III is that you can leave the camera on autofocus. With the II you had to move

to manual focus before the shutter would release with MLU.

 

I find that the problem Michael referred to in his review rarely occurs if you use the electronic cable release. I can recreate

the problem but I have to work at it!

Bill