nhut-nguyen Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Hello everyone, My set up was 40D + 70-200 f/2.8 IS + EX430 Speedlite mounted on hotshoes The lighting condition was very low, I had to shoot with ISO 1600 @ f/2.8..The stage was lit with overhead yellow lights and also with two spot lights, each spot light was about 7 ft above the ground and 70 ft from the stage. Many of my shots came out with red eyes, I did turn on my red eye reduction on but the problem still occured. That was my first time shooting with this set up, I've shot many times with 40D + 24-70 + EX430 without any red eyes. Thank you for your input, tips and helps Sinh Nhut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PuppyDigs Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Flash bracket + Off-shoe chord. Sometimes the light’s all shining on me. Other times I can barely see. - Robert Hunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhut-nguyen Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 thank you Puppy Face, do you think the red eye could be caused by the lighting? I thought once I have an external flash, red eyes should not be a problem because the flash is higher. If this keeps on happening everytime, I will get a bracket and off-shoe cord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinsouthern Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red-eye_effect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philscbx Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I used to do the same shoots with film, but no flash of the kids dance shows 20 yrs ago. If your flash killed the stage lighting effects as well, then turn it way down for one. Catch the dancers without them directly looking into lens. Time the shot at their slowest movement. Multiple rapid shots and this will close down their Iris some, but don't blind them to where they injure themselves. If more of this event is coming up, try to set up off camera remotes. 70-200 might be too much lens vs a fast prime 135 or similar. Other than that, Aperture or other software will fix red eye to a needle point. If you have samples to link, great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhut-nguyen Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 thank you everyone for your replies. The truth is my flash did not kills the lighting, and nobody really cares if I did. This was a cultural event that my church has every year to celebrate Vietnamese New Year, all the dancers and singers are close friends and I wasn't a hired photographer, I just shot for fun. What suprised and dissapointed me was that I thought using an external flash would not result in redeyes since the flash is far away from the lens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philscbx Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Even with 12" bracket, at say 40 - 100 ft to subject, the flash only moved an 1" from the lens. Similar to pool bumper shot from 6" vs 8ft. You may still see red eye at full power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhut-nguyen Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 Thank you Phil, yes I did shoot far away, at least 50ft from the subject, I think I'm beginning to understand why I had red eyes. So do you think I should get closer next time? If I get closer I can not get a wide enough shot thought, again thanks for you help. It's 1:35am California time, and I still can't sleep because of this :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas_hardy1 Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I recently took some shots on a cruise ship during one of the nightly shows with low lighting as you described. I used ISO 400 film, but my lens had an aperture of 1.4. I had to time the shot when the performers were still. In your situation, the low lights causes pupillary dilation (so the performers can see in the dark). If you're standing more than a few feet away and then used direct flash you will still get red eye effect. Depending on the size of the room, you might get away with bouncing the flash, but then it would take a lot of power. I think I would fix the red eye in Photoshop. It works quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark u Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 If you wish to avoid redeye, bounce the flash where possible. Otherwise, you have to achieve a sufficient angle between the lens axis and the axis of the flash beam. It's angle, not distance that determines redeye risk. Hence use an offshoe cord, if need be at arm's length, shooting with a telephoto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_osullivan Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 The floods were at a low angle as well and could have contributed, especially if you say the flash did not overpowere the floods. Post a sample so we can have a look see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_szeto Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 All the above advices are good for avoiding red eyes when you take pictures using flash again. But for the pictures you have already taken, there is nothing you can do but to fix it in software. You can use PhotoShop or other softwares that you have to correct that. Since you are using 40D, there should be software that came with your camera. The Zoom Browser EX that should come with your camera works well correcting red eyes. Just bring up the software, select Edit from the left column, then select Edit Image from the drop down menu, and select the Red Eye Correction from the Edit Settings. Click on Finish and a new window appears with your selected image in it. DO NOT USE THE AUTO MODE. Instead use the Manual Mode. Just move the cursor on the eye and you will see a circle on the eye. Just click on the mouse and the red eyes is fixed. It is so simple that I haven't need to look into using PhotoShop to do the fix. Try it and I hope it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhut-nguyen Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 Hi everyone, thank you for your advice, I will fix one or two of the photos to learn the technique in PS or Zoombrowser EX..the shoot was just for fun, the photos weren't really important (because everyone had their digicam, no photos were lost). Now I know why I had redeyes, this is more important though, thanks again everyone. Sinh Nhut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_hall4 Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I did not read all the other post so I may be repeating someone. the low light causes the pupils of the subjects eyes to dilate and that makes them get the red eye affect much more easily. Since you were useing the 70-200 I assume the suject was a good distance away. The red reduction feature of your camera is a silly thing that turns on that little light on the front of your body that is suppose to make the subjects pupils close down to reduce the chance of red eye. therefore it is of no use at a distance and it takes a moment for it work as the subject is suppose to look at it. It is just an issue when shooting people in low light with direct flash. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_myers Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 Yes, a flash bracket and off camera shoe cord might help. But, using a longer telephoto setting on your zoom can even defeat that and you'll still get redeye (...in people's eyes, or eyeshine in animals). It's just not always avoidable in situations like this. It's best to learn how to keep it to a minimum *and* how to fix it with software. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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