german Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Hi, I just got my first Crown Graphic and have been playing with it for a couple of hours, but I cannot seem to figure out what I need to unlatch or move to shift the lens. I can barely shift it about 1 degree either way, but that's it. And while I have found mentions of how it can be shifted about 2 inches either way, I have not found a post describing how to make/achieve such movement. Thanks. G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shambrick007 Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 You have to rotate that lever at the base of the front standard and push down the tab.....sorry, I don't have mine in fornt of me now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
german Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 Thanks Sheldon. I am trying (and have tried) doing what you suggest but it does not move more than about 1 degree. I know I must be missing a step somewhere! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_mazursky Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 you have to rotate the lever so its parallel to the body. Then depress the little tab. You have to hold the tab down to shift the whole front standard left to right. There isnt much movement and it cant be to close to the rear housing our the sides of the standard will hit the camera rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyepasha Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 I have uploaded a quick picture (sorry for the quality of the drawing) where I have circled the lever/tab you need to move. When that circle is pointing straight forward, in the same axis as the bellows, it is unlocked and should move freely. If it does not move freely it could be you have a locked tab, look for a much smaller tab on the right hand side at the end of the rail that locks the focusing knob (opposite the focusing knob on the other side). If the circular tab (circled in drawing) is to the left, move it to the right (clockwise) to unlock. If it is to the right, move it left back to the center. It could be stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sg_adams Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 two inches? where did you here that? There's a tab sticcking out at the front bottom of the standard. Unlock the standard lock lever, depress the tab, and shift the lens side to side with about 3/8" movement either way. The only big movement on the Pacemaker series is the bed drop position, and the rear tilting front standard. There is also rise, but no swings. You can get swings and a lot of shift by using the drop bed and tilt movements withthe camera mounted on its side vertically in the portrait position, but that's about it. Check out graflex.org if you need more help with it. Also, depending on the lens you have mounted, some movements maybe further hindered by the bed slide locks and wide angles like the 90mm angulon are hindered by being right at the inside ofthe camera body box. But fool around with it; creativefolks have got thesethings to make a lot of images over the last few decades... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sg_adams Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Image above, the lock and metal shift release tab areinthe very upper right... Have fun with it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sg_adams Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 http://www.southbristolviews.com Find this web site and you will find complete manuals for the Graphics. If you can't find it, go over to http://www.graflex.org/helpboard/ and ask on the board there under Speed Graphic help and someone will get you pointed in the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sg_adams Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Duh ! upper left... Lots of stuff inthe system having some med issues...sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 German, the slots which allow shifting are less than 3/4" long, so the maximum shift is 1/2 of that, or less than 3/8."<P>(Please excuse the out of focus image, but I couldn't find the instruction book on how to set the camera to macro.)<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 To shift the lens, center the lever in its unlocked position (like you were going to slide the front standard in or out), and press down on the little chrome tang just under the lever, at the same time shift the front standard sideways, then lock the lever to hold it there.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
german Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 Hey guys, thanks a lot for all the help! I finally got it to work ... and yes, it does move only about 3/8 of an inch -- not the 2" I had read (or mis-read) who knows where! I will use the back tilt for the swing movement I had in mind for portraiture (the selectively out of focus look). Thanks again! It's great to be able to count on a group of knowledgeable -- and helpful -- people as you guys are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sg_adams Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 What lens did your Crown come with? Most have 127mm or 135mm which are pretty wide for 4x5 press work coverage. They are great old lenses usually, with a soft vintage look when shot wide open or nearly so. But kinda short for portrait work. If youhave the Grafloc back, there are plenty of 120 roll holders around that work good for using the shorter standard lenses as longer than normal. Actually, a 127mm lens is only slightly longer than what would be considered a normal lens on a 2-1/4 x 3-1/4 medium format, which I belive is 110mm or thereabouts. I've shot some nice portraits with the 135mm Optars using 120 film format, and still crop some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
german Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 I believe it's the 127 mm. (I left it upstairs.) And you are right, I need to look for a 120 back for it and/or a longer lens -- if one would fit the camera. (I would need to see it in person and put it in the camera on the spot to make sure it works. I would not know the necessary specifications for this camera -- unless I measure the lens board -- but I would not know what else to ask when shopping for one.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
german Posted January 9, 2008 Author Share Posted January 9, 2008 Hey, is it possible to connect studio (or portable) strobes/lights to this camera? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_fromm2 Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 German, if the shutter has a sync terminal, yes. If not, no. If the sync terminal is bi-post or ASA (the Kodak bayonet), you'll need the appropriate cable. Paramount cords (google!) makes 'em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
german Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 Thanks Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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