triggering SB600 without pop-up flash?

[ryan_smith10]

After coming to the sad conclusion that the SB600 cannot be a commander, I have

resorted to using the pop-up flash of my D80 as the commander for the SB600. I

was wondering if it was possible to set the pop-up flash to only emit minimal

flash (enough to trigger the SB600), but not significantly add to the scene.

 

when setting up the camera, I have chosen Commander mode and built-in flash is

set to "--", which I thought would accomplish this, however the flash is still

as strong as ever. TTL gives same results, and M 1/1 almost blinded me.

 

Any suggestions?

[frank_skomial]

You could purchase the Nikon SG3-IR filter for your in-camera flash at about $12, and use it the simple way, highly recommended.

 

...but try something else first to see if that satisfies your need, (that is you must use camera shutter faster than the max sync so you loose some degree of controlling the depth of field, and you loose most of the flash max power. There are other side effects of FP, search photo.net.

 

Yes, there is one way, without purchasing anything else, just D80 and remote SB-600 would do, no filter, and there will be no light from the built-in flash in the picture.

 

Since I do not have SB-600 or D80, you need to experiment this yourself, and report back how/if that worked for you, please do so, so others could benefits from your experience.

 

The idea is ugly, and I would never use it myself, but you have no choice...

 

Follow exactly all the steps below, and try:

 

1. Set your camera/shutter flash sync mode for FP flash mode. I believe there is a star (*) character in the menu for this.

 

2. Set the camera in Aperture priority mode.

 

3. Set the shutter speed to faster than Max sync of your camera, and that will be perhaps 1/250 or 1/320 sec. on D80, or 1/320 sec. on D200 camera. This will force the built-in flash to command the remote flash set in FP, using the CLS system communications.

 

4. Set your camera built-in flash as a commander.

 

5. Set your camera built-in flash output value to the "--".

 

6. Set SB-600 as a remote flash, on the channel and group the same as the built-in commander flash.

 

7. Take picture, perhaps standing in front of a mirror, so you will see that the built-in flash does not contribute any light during exposure time.

 

Why it works?

 

The D80 has FP flash mode, and the SB-600 has FP mode, so you need to take advantage of this. The FP mode is also compatible with the CLS system, and can be commanded remotely.

 

The D80 built-in flash is not a FP flash, but as a commander it can command remote FP flash.

 

The Built-in flash will issue pre-flashes for the FP mode in the CLS mode, but these are a bit different preflashes than in iTTL CLS mode. You will see them, but they will not show up in the picture.

 

Built-in commander will start the FP CLS commanding pre-flash seignals for the remote SB-600 in FP mode, well before the shutter opens. When the shutter opens, the built-in flash as commander already stopped the FP commanding lights and is not producing any light.

 

During shutter narrow slot movement across the sensor, the remote SB-600 in FP mode will produce series of adjucent smaller power strobes that will provide exposure at much reduced power. Read about FP from your flash manual

 

The final effect is that tha built-in flash produced NO visible light in the picture.

 

Once you learn the limitations and side effects of this method you will certainly want to purchgase the IR filter.

 

I was testing this with D200 and SB-800, but it should work for you using D80 and SB-600.

 

I was not able to do it with any other so called "Nikon Compatible" flashes from Metz and Sigma, .. or well, may be I did not try hard enough ?

 

Good Luck!

[nickwhite]

As Frank says, the IR filter SG-3IR is probably your best option (it is not exactly robust though). You could also just tape a bit of exposed film over the pop-up; that will also block the visible light while allowing the IR to pass.

 

The SU-800 is the more expensive way to go, but does have advantages - being IR only you do not have any pre-flash/visible flash problem, longer range than your built in flash, 4 channels/3 groups, exceptional battery life, ease of use etc.

 

IMO the pricing of the SU-800 as a stand alone product is OTT, however bought as part of the macro kit R1C1 makes it excellent value (if you need the macro flash that is).

 

This thread may also be of interest - http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00NtUh

[acbeddoe]

Just set the flash to 'Commander' mode and the built-in to '--' and it will not contribute any light - it will just trigger the SB-600.<p>

 

I have this combo and it works beautifully.

[frank_skomial]

"Just set the flash to 'Commander' mode and the built-in to '--' and it will not contribute any light - it will just trigger the SB-600." - even if the value of a commander is set to "--" it does contribute the final trigger signal into exposure when remote flash is not in FP mode and the shutter is slower/longer than the max sync speed.

 

Ryan's original problem states that clearly.

 

In certain conditions, when aperture is closed a lot, and low ISO used and picture taken at longer distance, the commander trigger signal may not be visible since it is very faint, but it is there, as Ryan complained about it.

[ryan_smith10]

thanks for everyone's responses! Sorry for the (extremely) late thank you, but just noticed these when I was updating my profile.

[RickInNY]

My low-tech method of managing this is to block the flash from emitting light toward the scene with a piece of white card stock. I make it about 1" high by 4" wide and fold it into a V shape. Place it in front of the pop up flash and tie it on with a twist tie or something. That way, light is blocked in the forward direction but bounces to the side and triggers the speedlight.

[rodeo_joe1]

Good thinking! But could I suggest that a similarly folded strip of aluminium kitchen foil would be slightly stiffer, more robust and reflect more efficiently?

P. S. It's not just the D80 popup flash that still emits when set to "--". This can be easily checked by pointing your camera into a mirror and seeing the popup flash blind the camera when reviewed. Yet another reason why i-TTL's optical slaving is a bit crap and radio triggers are the way forward.