How to use Mutar 2X and CF180mm lens combination

[sun_ho1]

Hi, I found difficulty in using the above combination in portrait photo taken

especially for kids. I always misfocus the object as I used camera's WLF only.

Loss of 2 stops as a result the focusing screen looks too dim for accuracy

focusing. Use of largest lens diaphragm F4.0 (equal to F.8 after compensation)

was rather too shallow D-O-F indeed. When shutter speed set lower than 1/30s,

camera vibration due to unbalance load distribution for long lens (180mm + 2X)

could be sensed even bulky tripod and strong ball head were used in

connection. Does anyone have the some problem and have a good solution, please

let me know.

1) As mirror lockup practice was not practical for kid photo, I will try to

mount the ball head screw to the teleconvertor rather than at the carmea body.

Of course, some modification works were required. Any suggestion?

2) Use of ball head with long lens support platform for lens shake reduction.

Any model provided?

3) Use of prism finder for easy focusing

4) Use smaller lens aperture and high ISO for more DOF.

 

In most of time, I used long tele lens for portrait.The background is

compressed and the subject looks emphasized and more separation. In 135mm, the

imagine magnification and subject distance are ease of handle and use in 200mm

or 300mm lens. But it is different for MF tele-lens. I have tried 350mm and

500mm for the same jobs but not satisfied. Long subject distance and less

magnification kept you away from the subject and communication. Use of

extension tube are not flexible in different subject distance under different

situation. Good image magnification obtained in using 2X convertor but light

loss and contrast disgrade are unavoidable and noticeable. I felt tele-photo

for portrait is not easy to handle in MF.

Thanks to anyone who could enlighten me in advance.

 

Regards

SUN

[diegobuono]

In the use of a teleconverter the diaphragm aperture does not change so if you set at f4.0 does not change in f2.8. On the contraty if you think in term of light reaching the film the diaphragm f4.0 is equal to f8.0.

The teleconverter does not affect DOF.

[mizore]

Have you tried the 180 lens alone without the teleconverter? A 10mm (or 8mm) extension

tube with the 150 lens gets me fairly close (little less than a meter) without making

focusing at longer distances (though not longer than 15 feet, perhaps) impossible. The

conversion factor with the short tubes is fairly minimal, too.

[sun_ho1]

Hi, I wish to tabulate my questions as follows:

1) What is the way out to improve the weight balance for the unit consists of a camera, a lens & a teleconverter mounted in tripod in order to reduce camera shake in low shutter speed setting.

2) According to Zeiss specification, CF180mm is maintained good performance even in aperture wide opened (f4.0). It is benefit for combination use of teleconverter in not too bright condition. However, shallow D-O-F and dim light deliverd in focusing screen always made me outfocus a lot especially for kid portraits. What can I do to get it right?

 

3) Many people said the Zeiss Mutar T* is well matching with CF180mm in performance. But, I saw quite noticeable degradition in contrast and colour satuation. Is there any technical skill to achieve quality performance, such as increase one stop or 1/2 stop exposure or avoiding to use the largest aperture.

 

4) Please share the experience for portrait photo using long tele-lens in MF. Short subject distance and large image magnificatin are considerated.

 

Thank you very much again to your valuable information.

 

Rgs

[sun_ho1]

Yes Rebecca. Single use of 180mm is very sharp and crystal clear alike. Also, its image delivered is comparatively low contrast with the result of good skin tone. So far it is labelled to be a portrait lens. I'm quite satisfy to its performance. However, once you stacked with Mutar converter. You will amazing for the image compression and magnification like 210mm telephoto lens in 135mm, as its shortest focusing distance does not change.

[kparratt]

Rebecca offers good advice regarding the 8 or 10mm extension tube.

 

In addition, I found it better to work with the camera hand-held when it comes to portraits of children. Using yourself as the support, right foot behind and turned out to the right (if you are right-handed), with the left foot forward and pointing towards the subject, and the knees slightly bent. This stance gives one stability and the ability to shift the body forward and back enough to follow the movement of children. This body movement is used to keep focus in control, and is more ready for sudden movements than a tripod-mounted camera, which demands constant adjustment in all directions and working with the focus ring.

 

Unless children are asleep (or watching television), constant movement must be expected. Every split second counts. Telling them to "sit still" is a waste of time, and will kill facial expressions.

 

The 180 lens is magnificent. If you have plenty of light, Reala 100 or one the 160 portrait films will do the job. Otherwise use a 400ASA film.

 

The hand-held Hasselblad will not give trouble with the triggering of the full camera function, mirror up, blinds opening etc. The pre-release is best employed with very slow speeds, when the tripod is really necessary (macro, still-life, landscape etc). A second or two should be allowed to pass before the exposure is made, because any vibration will still be echoing from the solid fixture of the tripod. Whereas this vibration is actually absorbed by the hands and arms when the camera is hand-held. The vibration in a Hasselblad is also minimal, because of the brilliant design. Movements are well balanced and dampened.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

Cheers, Kevin.

[sun_ho1]

Thanks Kevin.

 

I always get valuable advise and information from you in different forums you took part in.

 

Chidren portrait is a kind of hard work especially using 120 film. Capturing interesting facial expressions, lovely smile and accuracy focusing are the basic requirment. The successful rate is relatively low. Sometimes I think DSLR / SLR in 135 will be more easiler way to get the job done. However, when I saw a good printout by 135. I always regret not using 120. It is a fact that 135 devices are more handy and speedy. I exercised both weaken area of MF including speedy photo and telephotograph. As I said, I use WLF for focusing. Children movement after folding the magnifier will caused outfocus result. So, what do you think if the prism finder is essential in this situation. However, increase in camera weight may add trouble for the work in camera handheld. I will try as you said with and without the aid of an old version flash bracket to see whether any improvement. By the way, do you have any comments and experience for Mutar converter application. Thanks it again.

Best

SUN

[cameron_ertman]

If possible, you may want to look into getting the 1.4XE. The difference between using the 2X and the 1.4X converter is quite noticeable through the lens. With the 1.4 you only loose one stop of light which may not seem like a lot, but it is when focussing (when compared to two stops). I have both converters for the 180mm, and when using the 1.4 you are hard pressed to notice a real drop in light level (I have a prism finder) and sharpness when focussing. As far as balance is concerned, I have a large Arca Swiss ball head, and have an extra long mounting plate for it that can be slid back and then locked in place at the right balance point when using a tripod. I also mounted an additional but compact quick release clamp on my flash bracket so I could again use a longer plate and better balance could be had when hand holding.

[paul_gardener]

A 250 lens C or CF may be an option to solve the problem.

These lenses are often offered at very reasonable prices and give a better balance than a 180 with converter.

You also gain one stop compared with the 180/converter setup.

Handheld a shutterspeed of 1/250 or less is recommended.

[ilkka]

"Chidren portrait is a kind of hard work especially using 120 film"

 

Why make your work even more difficult by using a very slow lens that is a bit too long for what you really need? The plain 180 should do well or the 250.

[fotografz]

Sun, there are a number of solutions you can consider to achieve your goal.

 

For example there is the often overlooked Zeiss 350/5.6 which with a 10mm extension

tube focuses to under 10' and is brighter than a 180 with 2X. There are no glass elements

in an extension tube to degrade optical performance. This lens has areas that would be

easy to fit a tripod collar. I can't quite recall exactly, but one of the existing collars from

Nikon or Canon fits this barrel in back of the focusing collar.

 

Following the principle of "Horses for Courses", there is the 203FE with 1/2000th focal

plane shutter and much faster FE lens options ... which also can take a 1.4XE and 2XE

converters. Brighter screen with 150/2.8 FE and 2XE ( 300/5.6 ) ... brighter still with a

150/2.8 & 1.4X ( 210/3.92)

 

Another thought is the use of a gimbal type tripod head for stability yet maximum fluidity

of movement. This head is often used by wildlife photographers for birds in flight, etc.