Focusing Question

[ross_schuler2]

Hi

I am very new to Large Format and I would like to know if I set my lens to F 4.5 and focus on the foregroung so it is sharp and then set my lens to F 32 to take the picture with some front tilt will the entire foreground and distant background be in focus in a landscape. I just ordered a copy of Simmons book to help me understand camera movements and focusing. Any help on this subject will be appreciated My lens is a 90mm 4.5 Ross

[steve_gangi2]

That is sort of what I do but not exactly. I focus and tilt with the

lens wide open, and then I insert the film holder, stop down the lens

and shoot. The details depend on your camera. If it uses base tilt,

you use the little poem "focus far, tilt on near, then fiddle around

till all is clear" or something like that. If your camera has axis

tilt like mine, I focus at the center of the screen, and then

slightly rack the focus back and forth while tilting until it's all

sharp. Just remember, a little tilt goes a long way. Watch the

ground glass, remember to lock down before inserting the film, and

you'll be fine. It's faster to do it than to describe it. By the

way, you won't necessarily need to use f32 all the time.

[doug_gould]

Ross,

 

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I have Simmons' book, and have found it to be very well written and

easy to understand. Your question will be answered in the book. I too

am new to 4x5. I'm sure there are more thorough books, and more in-

depth books, but as far as easy to read/understand, you'll be happy

with this purchase.

 

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He covers the movements of the camera and their effects/use quite

thoroughly. I just read Adam's "The Camera", and ol' Ansel sure can

go on about a subject. Simmon's gives you the same info in one third

the pages.

 

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So, I haven't answered your question, but help is on the way!

[doug_paramore]

Ross: With the 90mm, you can focus about 12 feet in front of the

camera and at f32 everything will be in focus. With wide angle

lenses, you need to focus closer due to curvature of field of focus.

If you don't "focus in", the center may be sharp but the edges will

be soft. For longer focal length lenses, I usually focus about one-

third of the way into the scene and then use lens tilt to bring the

whole into focus. You may need to touch up the focus. I prefer to use

rear tilts when shooting with a high horizon. Focus on the distant

objects, then tilt the back of the camera to about verticle. This is,

for me, the fastest method and the foreground near objects are made

slightly larger. I like this effect for the feeling of depth it

gives. Welcome to large format photography. It is a wonderful world.

 

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Regards,

[lukas_werth3]

Sorry, but I have to disagree with the other answers. Focussing a 90

mm lens may work, to a certain degree, by just fiddling around, but

for really sharp negativs you first of all need a magnifier to check,

and you have to understand how the tilt (or swing) works. Simmons'

(otherwise very helpful) book does not explain this properly, as I

know from own experience. My beginner's mistake was to use too much

tilt most of the time. Articles on this website may help; I learned

focussing properly and in reasonable time from Harold Merklinger's

book (check his website).

[mike_mahoney]

Welcome to LF photography. You would set your lens to the widest

aperture to give a brighter groundglass image for initial focusing,

and recheck at the actual shooting aperture with a loupe and

darkcloth.

 

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You can make the whole focus and movements thing as hard or easy as

you like ... Merklinger is certainly the hard way, perhaps made

easier with a masters degree in math, although his website used to

contain short video clips which are helpful.

 

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Remember this little ditty .... " Focus on the far, tilt for the

near, then focus and tilt 'till all is clear ". In your example,

focus on the distant horizon, then tilt the lens panel foward, or the

film panel backward to acheive focus on the near object. Bottom line

is it isn't rocket science, and after a few hours behind the

groundglass actually seeing the effect of movements, you'll get the

hang of it. Others take a much more measured approach. Try simple

first, and if you're not happy with your results, change your

shooting method.

 

<p>

 

The Simmons book you have ordered is often mentioned as an excellent

source, as is Strobels " View Camera Technique "

 

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Perhaps the most valuable LF resource is this forum ... the archives

are a goldmine of information, and the members helpful.

[steve_gangi2]

I neglected to mention a focusing loupe, but that is correct. A

loupe makes a difference in final sharpness. I cheat some. Being so

nearsighted, I stick my nose to the glass, and don't need a loupe

until just before the film goes in ;)

I didn't mention H. Merklinger, because he goes more into the heavy

math and physics and not everyone is ready for that. For a quick

rule of thumb, with a normal (150 or 160mm lens and 4x5 camera and

let's say about 5 1/2 to 6 foot height and a level landscape, about 4

or 5 degrees tilt should be pretty darn close.

[lukas_werth3]

Just another clarification, before this thread goes into the

archives: Merklinger is certainly also a very good help in case you

have sleeping difficulties. I could not rehearse his math. BUT: it

gives you a very good possibility at hand to focus any view camera

very effectively with a minimum of movements in a minimum of time, and

it tells you what is important, and why it is. The crux is the hinge

rule, which says, in a nutshell, how much tilt is needed for a certain

focal length for the plane of focus to pass in a certain distance

below your camera. It takes some practice to estimate the best

distance in any situation to get everything sharp before and behind

the plane of focus (Merklinger has something to say about this, too),

but once mastered, the days of fiddling around are largely over.

 

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I normally tilt the front standart, and I taped a list of the

necessary tilt degrees on each of my lensboards. But the method can

be easily adapted for back tilts, as well as for swings (Merklinger

even explains, at least basically, what happens if you tilt and swing

at the same time).

 

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I have read Stroebel's book, and I don't share the enthusiasm for it.

It is a much more effective sleeping pill than Merklinger, and has

little to say about focussing in practice.