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Nikkor 50mm f1/4 af on D200


gino141

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<cite>If I want to stop the action of a horse in motion in an outdoor area with trees lining it,...... Yes, I can get an overall value & set my f/stop accordingly. But setting a shutter speed sure makes things easier ...</cite>

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For low light action shots in variable lighting, I use A mode wide open. That'll always get the fastest possible shutter speed, so it's far better than S mode for this purpose.

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If the lighting is fixed, M mode does just as well.

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If there's a large surplus of light, and the light is varying, and you want a specific amount of blur, say no more or nor less than exactly 1/60 second worth, then I can see using S mode. But I guess I'm like Bjorn; I've not yet encountered such a situation. When I do, I'll try out S mode to see if it works on my camera.

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I sometimes use P mode when I'm not too fussy about things and just want to get a quick documentary shot without thinking. But otherwise, it's M or A.

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It use to be if all else fails then read the manual. Now just google a question instead of check the manual ;-)

A or M work well for me. If I need to stop action I use a fast prime wide open. The shutter has more range than the aperture so its a bit harder for me to get into trouble but I still manage.

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Richard,

 

If I want to stop the action - stop the action mind you - of a horse coming at me full speed I set 1/500 s - then I have four frozen in time legs. I don't care about f/stop or DOF, I want & need all four legs stopped in time. That demands a high shutter speed. Ergo, set shutter speed & let the camera determine f/stop & DOF.

 

On my web site at Zenfoilo you can see a test I did months ago with this - - - http://lilknytt.zenfolio.com/f798102789/ - - - nothing special, just a test as I was starting to get comfortable with my D200 I was shooting jpg & used Auto ISO (which someone had recommended for me to do) There are three versions of the same shots there should you choose to look at them.

 

Lil

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After my Dad started me on 4X5's in the mid 50's (I just checked there are no P,S, or A modes on those) and FM's there neither.

I shoot off road GP scrambles only in manual. On a 3 mile track the light varies a huge amount from in the woods to out in the open. The trick here is not to stop a motorcycle racer which is very easy too do but to keep the tires and wheel spokes showing a nice spinning blur but not too much. This is totally dependent on matching the shutter to the bike's speed which can vary in a short distance from 10 or less mph to 80 or over. Much quicker than a horse can alter velocity or change direction. (I'm very familiar with both modes of transportation)

I guess you can count me in the corner as one who views P,S&A modes as dead weight. I have total control in manual mode and like it that way.

 

Don

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It's one thing to prefer M over other modes and another to label those who find the other modes useful as "dummies". Pejoratives don't help those of us with less experience to be better photographers. Having said that, I personally see no need for a "P" mode but almost always shoot in A and occasionally in S. Isn't the creativity in choosing the depth or field or motion blur (or not) or other effect desired? I'm satisfied with letting the camera determine the exposure once those are selected. For unusual lighting situations I use M and bracket. But I've only been an amateur photographer for about 55 years and am not as experienced as others.
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Letting the camera decide how the picture ends up in terms of "depth" is leaving crucial decisions to a mindless machine. In my language we have apt concepts for that, the English equivalent of which I used. I clearly stated this was my opinion based upon decades of practical experience and I feel no need to alter what I originally wrote.

 

If the objective is to become a better photographer, setting the camera to "A" or "M" and understand exposures will help you advance towards that end.

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Like Bjorn I have always used the A or M setting for exposure. But, recently, while on a short trip I found that there is a good reason for the P mode. I had my camera set for plenty of depth of field - f/11. I was walking back to my room along a path near a lake, when I sighted a sea otter on the land eating a fish. I had only a few seconds to get the shot before he saw me and left. I put the camera to my face, pressed the shutter, the auto-exposure system snapped it into focus, the meter set the exposure and 'click'. Then the otter was gone. The exposure was f/11 at 1/30 second. Sorry, it was just a bit to blurry to be worth printing. Out of curiousity I set the camera on P and took another image a few minutes later, same scene same light. The exposure f/4 at 1/250. I think I would have had a better chance with P.

 

I still use A or M when I have time to think about what I am doing. After all "people think, machines do". But, when walking about with no particular shot in mind, I might keep the camera on P. But, then I could just as easily set the aperture to f/5.6 couldn't I? So, the P setting still leaves me wondering........

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