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Matz 54MZ with Ultrabounce - ETTL exposure problem


stipe_marinovic

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Hi everybody!

I have Metz 54MZ-4 flash which I'm using on Canon 30d body with Canon adapter,

and it works fine in ETTL mode. The problem occurs when I attach Lumiquest

Ultrabounce on flash's head - the flash becomes useless.

While I'm taking picture of close object it overexpose picture for at least 1

stop, and if I'm trying to take a picture of a big room (big ceilings)it

overexpose it for a least 2-3 stops.. practically you never know what to get..

it seams that ETTL is not working with ultrabounce attached :(

What is the problem? Solution?

It seams (but I haven't tested it so much) that it only expose right in "A"

mode, but I need ETTL :(

Please help!

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Actually I don't have that much experience using "A" mode..

I use ETTL for shooting at night where A mode would try to light up whole scene and not just subject in front of me - resulting with overexposed subject.. and for daylight fill in flash..

Only time I use "A mode" is when I need extra flash power shooting inside..

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The 54 has an ETTL emulation sensor built into the flash head so if you have it in ETTL and you put something over the flash head, such as an OmniBounce or UltraBounce, you will get overexposure. Silly but true. If you have the manual, it does state this (not the part about the emulation sensor, but about putting something over the head in ETTL).

 

The solution is to use some other form of bouncer/modifier that does not cover the flash head or use the auto thyristor mode with your Ultrabounce. The A mode is actually better in flash exposure for this kind of flash shot (indoors, bouncing, where the flash is the main light source). I have the 54 and I shoot weddings--it is very easy to change modes. I do it all the time. I use ETTL outdoors and when I want the auto fill flash reduction of evaluative flash metering, and A mode inside when the flash is the main source of light.

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The highlight burn may not be from the sensor emulation. The Metz has a longer minimum flash distance than the 580EX, so if you are really close, that may be the problem, or try a shorter white card so not a lot of light is thrown forward. When using auto thyristor mode, I normally minus compensate the flash -2/3 or -1 for closer range subjects (up to about 7 feet or so) and set 0 compensation for farther subjects (7-12 feet). Then maybe plus compensation for farther subjects than that. Thing is, auto thyristor makes more sense to me--it follows a logic. Something ETTL doesn't do to well. Another thing to try is to manually widen the beam angle when bouncing off a ceiling. Try it--you should notice a difference in how the shadows are filled. More wrap-around light, in other words.

 

You can see the sensor in the flash head--lower left corner, I think. Then, test it by putting your finger over it while shooting.

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Thank you Nadine!

 

I tried to cover all corners of flash.. but it is all the same.. although I noticed some round black plastic under flash head surface in lower left corner.

The only thing I noticed that makes difference is extracting integrated diffuser, when I use it.. the pictures are way to overexposed :( totally burned.

Could it be that sensor is somewhere under extracted diffuser?

Do you have problem using diffuser in (E)TTL mode?

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Stipe--the round black plastic thing is the ETTL emulation sensor. I would suggest that there is another reason for your getting overexposed images when NOT covering the sensor, and with the integrated wide angle diffuser. I don't find the same problem when in ETTL. You notice that the wide angle diffuser is shaped so that it doesn't cover the emulation sensor.

 

I don't know if you are comparing to a 580EX, but Metz ETTL isn't quite as prone to underexposure as with the 580EX, but it sure never really approaches overexposure much.

 

I would look at your test subject and test surroundings. If they are dark or dark colored, even in ETTL, you'll get overexposure. If you are too close, you will get overexposure. Depending on your ISO, the minimum distance can be as much as four feet. In any case, you can try minus compensating.

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When I switched from my Nikon F100 film body and the most appriciate SB28 to Canon 1D mark II, I looked for the A mode in Canon's flashes.

I was very surprised to see that...there is no A mode. So I searched so much and ended up getting the Metz 54mz 4.I took more than 200,000 exposures with this flash during the last 3 years only in A mode. I don't find any reason in the TTL mode in general. The exposures from this gem are always accurate (I pull out the wide diffuser and reduce the flash to -1.67). Using A mode with this flash is not easy like the F100 - sb28 combo, however it is much more accurate than any experience I had with ANY Canon flash.

The ONLY problem for me with this flash is that it discontinued.

I will be happy to assist.

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