Print Drying

[robert_ruderman1]

Hi,

 

<p>

 

I have been making a few 11x14 prints recently. I have a rather primitive (but functional) darkroom. When it comes to drying the prints, I simply hang them from a corner (after squeegying (sp?)).

 

<p>

 

They dry in a few hours, but they end up all puckered around the edges. When I go to mat these prints, the puckering is quite a distraction.

 

<p>

 

My question is how, without the advantage of a print dryer and dry mount device, do folks dry their prints and get them into a flat enough condition for over-matting?

 

<p>

 

Thanks.

[psychophoto]

Two things come to mind. One, try making some drying screens

to dry your prints on, posibly with a second layer of screen

directly on top of the prints so as to help keep them flat while

drying. Also, the relative humidity of the drying environment can

affect how wrinkly prints get. In the spring when things are

humid, my prints usually dry flatter than in the winter when it's

really dry, so maybe some sort of humidity-control in the drying

area might help.

[paul_owen]

I made my own drying screens and WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT!!

Well worth the effort - although I cheated and used artists canvas

stretchers for the frame.

[ted_kaufman]

Drying screens are something you really should have, so the effort

making them will be time well spent. The other thing you need is a

drymount press. They are quite expensive, but if you vigilantly

watch ebay, you can find a good one for +/- $250-300. It's a very

useful investment.

[doug_theall2]

Robert,

Get a nice big dictionary or other large book slightly bigger than the

print. After drying or if you can catch them damp, place the print

face to face with another print or on a piece of wax paper and put the

book on them over night while you are sleeping. It will look like

they were dried in a press when you check them. If they are

completely dry use a damp sponge to dampen the print on the back side

only.

Good luck,

Doug

[brian_ellis3]

I use both drying screens and a dry mount press. I also tried the

book method in the distant past. I've never found a satisfactory way

of eliminating the "puckering" at the edges that you're talking about

except by use of a dry mount press. The screens dry the prints fine

and overall curling is minimized if you place the prints face down

and put a second screen on top, but a drying screen won't keep the

edges from "puckering" (at least mine don't, nor did any book I've

ever used. I personally wouldn't bother with trying to make my own

screens. Just go to Home Depot or any hardware store and buy some.

They cost verythey

[robert_ruderman1]

Would one of those electric dryers (the ones with the twin chrome

surfaces -- you can dry on either side of the device; prints are held

against a warmed platten by a cloth) be of any value in getting rid

of the puckering? Or are these devices to be avoided?

 

<p>

 

Thanks,

Robert

[andrea_milano3]

Robert,

cutting the edges really helps, so try printing a size larger than

the one you would intend to and cut off the eccessive paper, this

releases fiber tention, print dryers for fiber based paper are very

good but you should check the fact that no fixer should remain in

the print if you don't want to pollute your subsequent print.

I have a Buscher and it works like anything! I am very happy, a

mounting press arises a few question such as on the quality of

the glue and if this in future would ruin the print.

[dan n.]

I have 2 solutions for this problem which I use separately or

combined... 1.- I use the drying screens and weight the prints down

with something flat and heavy after they are completly dry...2. I use

the screens for few hours then transfer the prints (while they are

still a bit humid) to a drying book and weigth them down...also you can

fix old prints by soaking them in water and re-dry them using suggested

methods...good luck

[tony_mclean1]

Try something radical! Make a FB print with one inch borders.

process and wash as normal. Remove any surface water from

both sides of the print and place the print, image up, on a sheet

of glass. Tape the perimeter of the print to the glass with gum

tape (one inch wide brown tape with water activated adhesive).

The tape should cover half the print margin and half the glass ie

a minimum of half inch onto the border. Leave somewhere cool

overnight. In the morning, run a razor blade around the print

edge. There will be a sharp crack as the tension is released.

The print will be as flat as the original unprocessed paper and

will have a beautiful textured finish. Trim any excess tape from

the margins. Not exactly novel! artists have been stretching

watercolour paper like this for years! I've used this method for

years.

[andrew_held1]

Calumet sells nice drying screens for about $8 a piece. At that

price why build them yourself, unless you are really into it. I

bought a used seal press for cheap and found that the Seal company

still makes replacement foam platens. It didn't work satisfactorily

until I had gotten rid of the old crumbly one.