From under eBay: Bowens Monolites 200B; 400B ?

[winddancing__]

While long discontinued, searching did lead me to the instructions for slowly

building up the capacitors; but I could use a manual or basic instructions; and

what "is" the med screw base focus light? It seems that different models have

specific procedures so it is the 200B and the 400B in question. The rains have

begun so still life will also.

[misterstrobe]

Hello "winddancing", don't expect too many answers to your questions. I myself had to overcome my initial hesitation as to answering to an anonymous person. Perhaps you failed to see that people in this community show their full names, and even letting others know where they are from. This way answers can be tailored to suit better. It's etiquette here, if I'm not mistaken.

 

 

Now to your problems:

The screw base socket for the modelling lamp of the Bowens 200B and 400B models is a standard Edison (ES) E27 type which will accept both E26 and E27 screw base bulbs/lamps/globes. Sometimes the size E26/E27 is referred to as "medium " screw base, E14 as "small", and E 40 as "large". In the 200B/400B you may use standard household bulbs, photo floods, enlarger bulbs, or halogena type, as long as they are size E26/E27. Maximum wattage for the Monolite 200B is 100W, and 250/275 W for the 400B.

 

Here is a specific procedure that works well for the forming of capacitors for Bowens/Bogen 117 VAC models Monolite 200 B, 400 B and 800 B in case they have partially degraded due to non-use for a very long time. Its also good practice if one has bought pre-owned units and the condition the capacitors are in is unknown. The units mentioned do not have the slow charging feature found on some of the other Monolites like the 220 VAC model 400E, 400D and 800 E. Therefore the brute force charging cycle must be interrupted manually to limit the voltage on the capacitors to a safe level in case the aluminium oxide film used as a dielectric has degraded.

 

The following procedure will work for both your Bogen 200B and 400B:

 

 

1. Do not connect the unit to the mains as yet.

 

2. Make sure that the power switch is in the OFF position. The switch for the modelling lamp should be OFF also during the following sequences.

 

3. Connect the unit to the mains supply. Do not turn it on as yet.

 

4. Next, turn the unit on for the duration of ONE HALF SECOND only. So, throw that switch ON and OFF real quick, and leave it OFF!

 

5. Wait for approx. 5 minutes.

 

6. Now repeat step 4. But this time, leave the unit on for ONE SECOND, then turn OFF.

 

7. After 5 minutes, turn the unit ON. The READY light should come on after 2 seconds. Leave the unit ON. Do not trigger the flash before at least half an hour has gone by. Triggering flashes to "bring the unit back to life" as some people proclaim is having an adverse effect, because it does put additional strain on the capacitor in a critical phase.

 

To be on the safe side, and time permitting, you may leave the unit on for several hours.

 

Hope this helps

 

Hans Strobl

[winddancing__]

Some people do have only one name, lower case at that. Only recently have I succumbed to the programmer's common expecttion of a "first" and "last" name. I've experienced just such discrimination for years. Now I've legally changed my name to Clueless Winddancing. Oddly, a Google search reveals my long time photographic interests. I tried to join one Pro Color forum with my "new" real name and was denide admission unless I used a psuedonym ( e.g., Bill Jones)because it would entice complaints from those who wanted anonymity or a pet tag.

As to your intelligent Bowens' advice, I had found your directions for safely rehabiliting the capacitor and have it with the equipment. A source on eBay has copies of the user instructions for $10. Your specific information about the modelling lamp is especially helpful. In the box of goodies were two disc about the size of 3 quarters. There is soldering on one side as if they were to be inserted in a lamp base recepticle.

 

To flesh out the person, CW, I am an old man, with wet darkroom and shooting experience with one foot in the digital world. I shoot for pleasure and my psychiatrist. I donate shooting, editing, and printing to a community institution. If you were to look closely at my "name" there is an asterisk in place of a conventional last name. I will see about updating my data. Clueless Winddancing of Port Angeles, WA USA

[misterstrobe]

Hello winddancing, I owe an apology to you. I see more clearly now. Lets see what I can for you.

You are mentioning a source on eBay selling user instructions for 10$. I think you can save that money. Although I do not have a copy of the original, from memory I reconstruct that it was not very informative. You can get better info tailored to your needs on the forum.

 

One thing I have to point out urgently to you: the Bowens Monolite 200B/400B has a very high sync voltage of 200-250 V. This may damage the sync circuitry of digital cameras if connected directly via sync cable. There are so-called "safe sync" devices made by WEIN which help to avoid damages. There is very much on this on the forum.

 

 

"In the box of goodies were two disc about the size of 3 quarters. There is soldering on one side as if they were to be inserted in a lamp base recepticle. "

 

I can't make out what they could be or what they are used for. All I know is that there should be nothing but a light bulb in that socket. Perhaps you shoot a picture and upload it so we can see what is looks like.

 

 

Hans

 

Wuerzburg, Germany

[winddancing__]

I will effect an image of those discs ASAP. The high voltage issue is a good reminder to make plans to avoid a damaged shutter. Thanks for the continued help. I've not found the direct means to change my name in this forum but I have sent a request to the administration. Clueless Winddancing