Compendium shade: camera or lens mounted ?

[qtluong]

Is there any clear reason to prefer a lens mounted shade to

a camera (font standard) mounted shade or vice versa ? I noticed

that on the lens, it's easier to access the controls, while on the

camera, it's easier to use circular filters (particularly the

polarizer) and less likely to vignette with them. No big difference there, it seems. I've read somewhere in this forum that the

camera mounted variety transmits more vibration in windy conditions, but I am not sure I understand why.

[doug_paramore]

Q: The camera mounted shade usually gives you more flexibility to

tailor it to different lenses and configure it when movements are

used. The adjustable type can be tilted or moved up when a lot of

rise is used to avoid cutting off the top of the image. This is

expecially good with wide angle lenses. The same can be said of

camera swings. The ones with the filter slots work good with the

square filters. Some of the camera mounted shades flip up out of the

way when you need to get to the lens. I use both types. The lens

mounted ones work fine if you can find a square one. As for

vibration, the larger area of the camera mounted shades could cause

more vibration in the wind, but I usually stay indoors then.

 

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Regards,

[glenn_kroeger]

I have mentioned vibration of camera mounted shades... specifically

the Toyo Field compendium shade. Because of the way it is

cantilevered, unless the back of the shade can also rest against the

lensboard, it has a nice resonance on its two arms. For small lenses,

you can adjust it so that it rests on the lensboard, but the opening

is not big enough to encompass all shutters.

[larry_huppert1]

The ability of a lens shade to provide direct adjustment for

movements is a function of it's design. For example, the

Canham and Arca Swiss are camera mounted, and do not

adjust for movements. Linhof is camera mounted, and does

adjust for movements. Today, no one offers a lens mounted

shade which adjusts for movements, however such a design is

possible.

 

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If I owned a camera brand who offered a shade which adjusted

for movements, I'd prefer that approach just because of that

capability.

[dmin-99]

The LEE lenshade is lens-mounted and adjustable for movements. It is

also self-supporting and so is very light. The have square and

rectangular "wide-angle" versions.

[pete_andrews]

A simple camera mounted 'flag' over the lens will keep flare at bay,

and this doesn't need to be any more elaborate than a piece of card

stuck on a wire. It's easily bent to where it'll do the most good, and

the least harm.<br>I've never experienced internal camera reflections

that were bad enough to warrant the use of an all round matte.

[larry_huppert1]

The Lee lens shade is NOT truely adjustable for movements. The shade

has a built-in "foundation kit" which snaps to any of the Lee adapter

rings. The shade cannot travel up, down, left or right relative to

the front of your lens. It is fixed dead center. If you do

movements, you must pull back the shade in the direction of the

movement to prevent vignetting. For example, if you have used rise,

then you must pull back the top of the shade. Pulling back the shade

has the effect of lessening the effectiveness of the shade. If you

use moderate to large movements, you must pull it back so far that it

isn't worth using.

 

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If you use Lee style filters which require rotation (e.g. polarizer &

ND grads), the use of their shade is even more difficult,

particularly with wide angle lenses. My solution has been to stop

using the Lee shade entirely. Instead, I've taken to using a piece

of black foamcore to shield the lens from direct sun.

[glenn_kroeger]

I gently disagree with Larry. I use the Proshade, which is made by

Lee but is smaller and fits the Cokin holder. You can deform the

shade up and down, and side to side, as well as tilting the front of

the shade. Even that does not "lessen" the effect. I am able to the

opening to coincide with the film coverage based on checks from the

front and back of the setup. In addition, the Arca-Swiss shade is

more "fully" adjustable having a sissors style movement.

 

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What is not easily done with Lee, Proshade or Arca-Swiss is to change

the aspect ratio of the opening to match the aspect ratio of the

film. The 4-bladed style Linhof works better there.

[sean_yates]

I would think the camera mounted style, like the one Toyo sells,

would offer the most protection from scattered light. I believe

Woody Walters did a test that demonstrated their superiority with a

coated lens, but can't be sure that's correct.

 

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The ones designed to flip up out of the way are pretty easy to use.

I could see them being a source of vibration, but then so is the

bellows - so wait for the wind to die down. The tree branches and

flowers will be blurred anyway. Unless that's what you want of

course.

 

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I know Michael A. Smith and Paula Chamlee use big rubber folding lens

shades like what Tiffen, et. al. sell. However, they don't use

filters much either.

 

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I use this thing from Calumet: Universal Gelatin Holder Item No:

BG9000 $41.95. I think Adorama or B&H sell it too. It'll fit on

lens barrels up to 70mm in diameter.

 

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It cost less when I bought mine. It's two barn doors, like for a

light, that clip onto the lens. I modifed mine by gluing black felt

to the inner part to make it less reflective. It weighs only a

couple of ounces and is completely adjustable and folds very flat.

It doesn't cover the entire lens though. It is designed to accept 3"

gelatine filters in cardboard mounts, but I use mine with my glass

screw-in ones.

 

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When all is said and done I supposse it depends on what approach you

take - gelatine, resin, glass, and how you choose to mount them -

Lee, Tiffen, B&W, Calumet, etc.

[paul_owen]

I use a "Flarebuster", which is basically a rubber covered wire (very

substantial) which has a hot shoe mount on one end and a small

bulldog-type clip on the other. It comes supplied with a number of

small reflectors and a small circular foam disc that acts as a flag.

I have replaced this disc with a larger square of black card to

ensure adequate shading. I understand that a version exists that has

the clip on both ends. Does the job and very cheap, about £18 (U.K

pounds). But if I'm in a rush I do use the piece of card handheld!!

Regards Paul

[wilhelm]

If you're rich you can use multi-coated lenses. Personally, I prefer

a Stetson, AA style.

[brian_ellis3]

The lens type may not provide enough clearance between the camera bed

and the shade to allow the shade to be rotated when using a

polarizer. This was the case with me when I bought a Linhof Technika

and tried to use the Lee system with it. With my previous camera (a

Tachihara) I was used to screwing the shade onto the lens with the

lens mounted on the camera. When I tried that with the Linhof, it

wouldn't work unless the front of the lens extended beyond the camera

bed. The problem can be solved with most filters by screwing the hood

onto the lens before mounting the lens on the camera (thought even

that is somewhat awkward) but this won't work with a polarizer since

the hood needs to be turned while it is attached to the lens. The

problem is avoided with a camera mounted shade because the shade is

attached to the top of the camera. I'm sure this isn't true of all

cameras but it's something I'd check out before buying a lens mounted

shade such as the Lee.

[jim_blecha1]

Calumet's current catalog (page 116) shows a Multiclip for $13.95 (less

elsewhere). Just clip the appropriate size black matte board in one end

and clip the other to your front standard (top or side as needed) for a

lightweight, inexpensive, compact and fully adjustable shade that keeps

both hands free for shooting. This also allows easy access to lens

controls and is sturdy enough to stay in place once you have made your

movements and backed it out of your viewable area. Works with all focal

lengths and filter combos. Coat the jaws with gaffer's tape to prevent

damage to your camera.

 

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Good Luck!

[julio_fernandez]

This post is turning into the Lens Shade Encyclopaedia. Wow! I have

the Lee, with the rotating polarizing problems on a field camera. The

Linhof shade is almost the solution I have been seeking. Problem: too

small to take-in the rotating Lee filter holders. Solution? make the

Linhof shade bigger so that the Lee holders sit inside the shade.

That would mean replacing its bellows and 2 frames by larger ones.

Also, it may be possible to fit onto one of the frames a photo-light

style set of barn doors and dispense with bellows and the other

frame. Has anyone tried this?

[sean_yates]

Julio,

 

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Re: barn doors,

 

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That's what the Calumet Universal Gilter holder is - two barn doors

with a spring clip to hold it to the lens barrel and a slot for one

gelatin filter 3" X 3". I glued two pieces of black felt to the

inside of mine to make it even less reflective.