RRS Wedding Pro Flash Bracket

[james_lee25]

Hi folks,

 

I just purchased one of these. It seems like the design is well thought ou and

is decently built. It also fits well with the L plate.

 

There is one problem I'm having however. My copy seems to have a bit of wobble

at the joints of the foldable arms. Every joint has a little "play", and while

it doesn't seem like very much, it adds up to a bit of sway when shooting

vertically. Does anyone know if this is normal or do I have a defective

bracket? Being a $150 bracket (not to mention having to purchase a $160 L

plate to use it), I expected better build quality.

 

If anyone has one of these brackets please respond let me know if yours has any

of the similiar wobble/play in the joints.

 

Thanks!

 

-James

[picturesque]

I don't own the bracket, but I read on another forum, a thread complaining about the same thing. Any bracket that folds at the joints is probably going to have some play. The one joint that is important to be stable is the one right next to the camera body (rather than the one that swings the flash). I'd test it on a real event (of some hours) as I have found with this style of bracket (I have a Flash Frame one of similar design), the weight of everything combined is forward, and my wrists (the right one especially) got really tired over the course of the day, trying to compensate for the forward swing. Doesn't happen with my other brackets. Otherwise, it is a nice design.

[steve_c.5]

I hope the bracket is working out well for you all, but I wanted to let you know what I've done instead. It's far less bulky, less cumbersome, lighter, and faster to use.

 

It's the Gary Fong lightsphere on my swivel-head flash. This product completely eliminates the need for a flash bracket and gives AWESOME lighting that rivals studio strobes. Go to www.garyfong.com and check out the videos. He also has a Whaletale product that is an enhancement of the design.

 

This product has changed the way I shoot. It's far more flattering light than bounce flash (or direct-blast flash). It's light weight and painfully easy to use.

[james_lee25]

Steve,

 

I have a lightsphere as well, and it does work nicely for softening the light. When shooting in horizontal mode, it works well - softening light and making shadows dissapear (because it's high enough above my camera). Vertical mode, however is an entirely different thing. If my subject is standing anywhere close to a wall, there will be anywhere from a mild to harsh shadow behind the subject to their left (my right), due to not being able to get the lightsphere higher up in Vertical mode.

 

This is the main reason I need a flash bracket! My next job will be to photograph people inside small rooms. There will be walls - lots of them.

[jim olson]

I purchased the same bracket about three months ago and mine has the same wobble. I also was concerened at first but after using it at several weddings my concerns no longer exist.

Jim Olson

[surfidaho]

James, there is an easy way around the side shadow issue with LightSpheres:

 

Buy yourself a camera with lots of pixels (such as a 5D) and if the subject is against a wall, shoot horizontal. Then crop what you want, and upscale with Genuine Fractal.

 

Expensive? Certainly. But I find it worth the price not to mess with a bracket.

 

Later,

 

Paulsky

[steve_c.5]

James, I agree the shadows can be a problem in vertical mode against a wall, but there are some easy fixes. May not fix every instance, but let's be creative...

 

First, I NEVER shoot anyone against a wall. I turn them 90 deg. and shoot parallel with the wall or at an angle to the wall. That will reduce any shadows.

 

Next, even in small dressing rooms or bathrooms (some grooms have to get dressed in bathrooms), I've never had to shoot anyone so close to a wall that I got bad shadows. Again, turning even at a 45 deg. angle helps.

 

I turn my subjects so that I'm shooting INTO the room. It's much more attractive than most walls anyway. That will eliminate shadows. I look for opportunities to shoot outdoors where possible.

 

Gary Fong's Whaletale product is interesting for this situation though, because it has a back door and top door that blasts more light off walls behind you and ceilings to give a more even diffused light and softer shadows.

 

Most photographers will tell you to "follow the light". That's what I try to do. I just try not to follow it into a wall.