questions about lenses, film, exposure - the whole works!

[shana_peiffer1]

hello. this isn't exactly an olympus equipment question, but i am the proud

owner of an oldie but goodie om-1, and this forum has always been the most

friendliest, so i hope you don't mind my exceedingly newbie type questions...

 

i have just started using the trusty om-1 after years of point and shoot. i

have three lenses, 28/2.8, 50/1.8, and 100/2.8. i use slide film, and have

been happy on the learning curve journey. i typically use fuji sensia 100 or

400, figuring (perhaps incorrectly?) that i would use 100 in bright light

conditions, and 400 in more normal, or overcast conditions. i do not use a

tripod, filters, flash, etc etc. i am just out there looking, shooting,

learning.

 

however, after a weekend trip i am confused. 100 speed film, even on a bright

day, makes me compromise on my aperture selection in order to have a

reasonable speed. i rarely can go above 8 or 11. and with 400 speed film, on a

bright day, i can not get to a larger aperture, because i cannot get the speed

i need. so i am stuck at 16 or 11 because i can't go faster than 1000!

 

does that make sense? am i doing this wrong? am i thinking about it from the

wrong way?

 

i'm just frustrated because i don't seem to be experiencing the wide options

of image taking. but i don't know if it is because i am missing out on

something in regards to the film, the lenses, the combo of the two, some other

unthought of factor??

 

any advice is welcome!! thanks to all in advance.

[enzo_simonelli]

I think to understand, You would like to keep large Aperture in bright environment, too; where I do not find fast enough shutter-speeds able to stop the light. Make a research for ND Neutral Density Filter as well as Polarizing Filter.

 

They consist of dark-ish glass; they screw in front of the Lens and stop/absorb part of the light. A ND2 Filter absorbs 1 Stop, likewise turning from 1/1000 to 1/2000; a ND4 absorbs 2 Stops and a ND8 cut down 3 Stops.

 

In other words, seen by the Aperture side: instead of turnind from f/4 to f/11, You mount a ND8 and keep f/4, still achieving the same exposure.

[j.k._york]

first, I would say your meter is not correct if on a bright day with 100 film you can't get

reasonable speed. sunny 16 rule is with 100 speed film you should get a 1/125 f16

exposure. with that math you should be able to shoot at 1/500 f8 with 100 film on a sunny

day. the OM-1 is a great camera, I have one, but the meter needs to be checked.

 

perhaps I am misunderstanding what you are trying to achieve and Enzo is correct in that you

may want some ND filters to stop the light and get a larger aperture. A polarizer will cost

more and is more dynamic in that it absorbs light depending on your angle to the sun.

[matthew_newton]

A polarizer is a good filter to get. an ND filter is also a decent way to go if you want. I have a similar 'issue' with my OM-1 since the maximum shutter speed is 1/1000s. Try loading ISO800 film and it is even worse, because on a sunny day you have to shoot at either f/16 1/1000s or if you have a lens that manages it, f/22 and 1/500s...unless you use filters to cut down the light getting to the film.

 

When it comes down to it with most of my shooting, unless I am trying to do portrait work I am fine being stuck with the limitations of a 1/1000s shutter speed. Rarely am I doing pictures of people in full day light, unless it is group shots or casual on the street pictures, in which case I am generally not going for a very shallow depth of field. If a shallow depth of field and people shots is what you are looking for invest in an ND filter to cut down 2-3 stops of light or even just a polarizer (cuts 1 1/3-2 stops of light).

 

Another option is to use print film. I don't generally espouse incorrectly exposing your film, but with print film (color negative or B&W) you have enough exposure latitude that you can over expose the shot by a stop or two if you really need the shallow depth of field in your shot.

 

PS I wouldn't argue that there are times I wish my OM-1 had a 1/2000s shutter setting.

[tim_kohlman]

chances are, your meter is fine. If you've been shooting slide film and it's coming out correctly exposed then I doubt you have a major problem there.

 

The solution to your problem is an ND filter or using a slower film speed. Alternatively, buy an OM-4 because it has 1/2000 shutter speed and also has multispot metering which I use heaps when shooting slide film. I also ended up buying a nikon f90 to get a higher shutter speed because it has 1/8000 shutter which is pretty nice. I still prefer my OM gear though.

 

You can try shooting with kodachrome 64 or fuji velvia iso 50 if you want a slower slide film.

[richard_oleson]

I use ISO 400 film nearly all the time - granted, I can't open up to full aperture in direct sunlight, but I seldom really need to do that anyway... and for those occasions, as mentioned above, a polarizer easily buys you a couple of stops of darkness. It's easier to go that way than to find a handful of extra light for a too-slow film.

 

Although your description sounds pretty much right-on for ISO 100 and 400, it is possible that your meter could be reading off; the OM1 was designed for a 1.35v mercury battery which no longer exists. If you use the current equivalent alkaline, your voltage may vary from 1.5v down to about 1.1, resulting in a wide range of under- and over-exposure along the way. A 1.4v Zinc-Air #675 hearing aid battery, costing about $1 at a pharmacy, will give you accurate readings for about 6 months before you have to replace it.

[machts gut]

"i typically use fuji sensia 100 or 400, figuring (perhaps incorrectly?) that i would use 100 in bright light conditions, and 400 in more normal, or overcast conditions."

 

Even in "normal or overcast" conditions ISO 100 does pretty well in most occassions. I've done many years of travelling with slide films and would be happy if I could get Kodachrome 64 (!) for a reasonable price and with a lab and europe. Now I use Sensia 100 when I shoot slides. Maybe you should try if you really need Sensia 400 as often as you use it now.

[shana_peiffer1]

thanks everyone, olympus forum rocks!!

 

i am pretty sure the meter is fine, because i just replaced the (original!!) battery two months ago. of course, i will find out for sure when i get these slides developed!

 

thinking about it more i actually can't remember opening up on iso 100. i typically am a small aperture kind of gal. what i do remember then is being at around 1/125 and worried about that (since i don't have a tripod i have a neurotic, yet realistic, concern about handshake issues) and not sure if i was figuring this out correctly since to me it just seemed so slow. maybe 1/125 is not technically considered slow, but everything is relative for someone like me who likes being fast! :)

 

i do have a polarizer filter but i have never used it. i am rarely wider than 8, but there are occasions when i would like to try it out. so i will make sure to bring my filter when i use iso 400 and see what happens!

 

here is a related question to stefan or anyone else.... how do you use iso 100 or slower in non bright sunny conditions and keep a reasonable speed? or is speed not an issue for you because you have to use a tripod??

[richard_oleson]

If you don't have a tripod, lean on something. There is usually a tree or a post or something that you can lean on to steady yourself, and you can hold pretty long exposures that way. Tripods themselves are not made of granite, they can vibrate during exposure, so a handy tree can give as good or better results than a lightweight (ie, practical to carry) tripod.

 

This photo was taken handheld with a 400mm lens at a 1/80 second shutter speed, using a porch column for support: http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/moon-sm.jpg

[shana_peiffer1]

thanks for the suggestion. i typically try to lean on something no matter what. i just hate the idea of taking a tripod along with me.

 

and lovely photo! maybe i will try those blue color speeds after all! :)

[machts gut]

Hello Shana,

I never use a tripod. With the fast glasses you have with your oly you'll get 1/125 easily. Of course not always if you want small apertures. Depends all on your style. But again - ages of slide photographers (see National Geography) had slower films, like Kodachrome 25 or 64.

 

The battery question has been raised before and initially I didn't comment on it, but you wrote, you replaced the battery two month ago. The OM-1 worked with a quicksilver cell, I guess it's PX 625 (I'm at work right now, so can't check) with 1.35 Volts. But you can't buy this type of batteries any more, not in europe but I guess also not in america, for some years now. So you probably bought the new type PX 625 with some letter added, that has 1.5 Volts (!). It looks the same, the numbers are almost the same, but not the voltage. So you really should go to a good shop and have your light meter checked. Maybe it needs to be adjusted to the new cell.

 

Stefan

[shana_peiffer1]

thanks stefan. i always feel like a tripod is just one of those things i "should" buy even though i have no interest in using one. for me, i need to feel the camera in my hands.

 

i bought the zinc-air battery which is 1.4 volts. i have developed slides with this battery and the exposure for me has been fine.

 

i am sure it is all good, and i was just a little over thinking this weekend!

[enzo_simonelli]

A Monopod would be a great option, equiped with a quick-release plate Head; many used ones around there. It helps enabling to dial to slower shutter-speeds, than how feasible by hand-helding the Camera; You gain 2 steps, at least (from 1/60 hand-held, to 1/15 with Monopod).

 

Bogen-Manfrotto Monopods:

http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/site/bius/pid/6780/cache/bypass?actualPathCategoryKey=1CAT:AAA1:2CAT:BB34:3CAT:CC13:4CAT:D440&curMarketId=NONE&curBrandId=NONE&kindOfProductCollectionRequest=productList&isCleanList=true

 

The Heads:

http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/site/bius/pid/6780/cache/bypass?curLevel=1CAT&curFamilyId=NONE&curMarketId=NONE&curBrandId=MAN&actualPathCategoryKey=1CAT%3AAAA1%3A2CAT%3ABB34%3A3CAT%3ACCC1%3A4CAT%3AD153&productContainer_windowsize=10&ctnscroll_productContainer=&productSort=productBrand&productSortOrder=asc&kindOfProductCollectionRequest=productDetail&detailPid=8183

 

Prices:

http://www.adorama.com/BG679.html

http://www.opticsplanet.net/monopods.html

 

My greetings to You:

ciao

 

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[matthew_newton]

It really depends on the circumstances. The general rule of thumb is that if you have an average set of hands and arms on you you can hand hold your camera at a speed equal to the focal length (35mm format). So a 50mm lens means you could hand hold it as slow as 1/50s if you are average with no shake. With a 100mm lens you could manage 1/100s with no bluring and a 24mm lens 1/24s with no bluring.

 

If you have shaky hands it would be about a stop faster or a little less (1/60 would probably be okay with shaky hands and 50mm, 1/125s @ 100mm) a little slower if you have very steady hands (maybe 1/30s @ 50mm or 1/60s @ 100mm).

 

I have found that I use iso400 print film in my camera 95% of the time unless I know I am going to shot off a full roll before the light conditions change radically. For instances I am going to Chicago at the end of the month and I am going in some art museums, so for the extra speed I am taking a couple of rolls of superia 800 because I am positive I will shot off each roll before I am doing outdoor shooting. For when I am outdoors I am taking some reala because I know I can shot off all of it while the light is still good.

 

For near sunset, well lit night scenes (where the camera is probably going to be resting on a mini-tripod) and some zoo photography I am taking my 'general purpose' superia 400 and a roll of ilford xp2 c41 process (iso400).

 

In my opinion iso400 film is a good GP film to use because it is fast enough in dim lighting if you have a fast lens and it is high quality enough that you aren't going to regret that photo when you blow it up (unless you go BIG on the enlargement). For the times I know I can be picky up by film type and speed then I will grab a roll of it to put in my camera, but when in doubt I go iso400.

[tim_kohlman]

well, sounds like we're getting off topic but I may as well add my 2c!

 

I usually shoot with iso 100 slide film in any light condition provided I can use a tripod. I also use ilford panf plus sometimes which is iso50. I generally don't have over exposure problems like the thread author describes because I'm happy to use a smaller aperture. In fact, unless you need to use the depth of field lenses generally peform better at F/8 or F/12 instead of F/1.4 - F/4. 100iso is slow enough on a bright sunny day and I can't remember many situations where i'm forced to use F/16 or smaller apertures with my OM1.

 

If i can't use a tripod or need to take action shots in low light such as car racing, sports games, street photography etc. I will usually use Ilford Hp5 plus and at 400 or 800 or 1600 iso depending on the situation, if I need to use colour i'll resort to colour negative film at 400 or 800 iso.

 

Anyway, I don't think there is much call for film slower than iso100 because faster films these days are good enough which is why kodak is trying to market 800iso film as a 'standard' film. Also modern camera shutters are faster than back in the 70s.

[nancychuang]

Shana,

 

<p>Are you really bracing yourself? I find if I pull in my elbows tight, hold my breath and spread my legs a bit apart I get decently steady shots at 1/15 <a href="http://www.nancychuang.com/2006/12/pathway_to_the_waterfall_wufen.html" target="blank"><b>like this</b></a>.

 

<p>Alternately, I lean on something, or only brace the camera up to something while I lean (not too heavily) on that, or sit and rest my elbows on my knees. All depends on where you are shooting, of course!

 

<p>I haven't used my longer lenses in quite a while, but these methods work for me using 50mm or less and ISO 100!