Mounting Ilfochrome

[alpshiker]

So far, I have always been mounting my Ilfochrome prints on plastic or aluminium auto-adhesive plates, overlapping them with the matts. But I remember when visiting Michael Fatali's gallery in Springdale some years ago, I noticed his (beautiful!) prints where mounted the way black and white prints are mounted, that is with a heat press directly on the matt. I wonder how this process can be achieved, since Ilfochrome cannot be heated. Two faces adhesive? Ilford's support could not answer me at the time. Glossy polyester require a very smooth surface. Mat paper is less demanding. Does anyone know about this technique?

[lanier_benkard]

Paul, I don't know the answer to your question myself, but I do

remember that the lightroom's website has a whole section on it.

Rather than go there myself and then misconvey the information, I'll

just point you there: <A HREF="http://www.lightroom.com">The

Lightroom</A>.

[dan_smith]

I do custom photographic framing as a specialty in conjunction with

my photography, and Ilfochromes are easy to do. Get a roll of Scotch

PMA(Positionable Mounting Adhesive). Per Scotch and Light Impressions

both, it it archival. It is pure adhesive on a easy to remove roll.

You unroll a bit and place your print on it. I then use the release

paper over the face of the print so I don't scratch or ding it, and

cut around the print with a razor blade to get the edges just right.

Then, turn the print over on the release paper(use a good 100% rag

board underneath, making sure no adhesive sticks to it when you place

the face of the print on it). Now burnish the adhesive on the back of

the print through its backing. The wide burnishing tool makes it easy

to do without creasing the print. If your mat board is dirty, you

will make craters or scratches on the print-be clean. Then get your

mounting board, peel the backing off the print, and place it on the

pre-measured marks and you have a nice looking, permanently mounted

print. With Ilfochromes you have to be careful and be sure you do NOT

put buffered boards in contact with them. Ilfochromes are acidic and

the alkiline buffering will bleach out the print where it makes

contact. If you use wooden framing, the inside of the frame, next to

the matboard and glass, needs to have aluminized mylar affixed to it

to keep the outgassing from the wood from the print in the frame.

[alpshiker]

Lanier, thanks for the link! The indications given there go in the same direction as Dan's explanations.

Dan, thanks a lot! I have to try this method. The first question that comes to my mind though is: will this

give acceptable results with the glossy polyester paper too? I have had prealable experiences of a very

annoying "orange peel" finish on some supports. But I can think, because the adhesive will hold stronger

on the polyester side than on the board's side, that it will flatten up with the time. Your indication on

buffered boards and how to inactivate wooden frames are precious too. Where do you get that mylar

stuff? An adhesive film? Thanks!