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Studio setup, Flash meter, Wein Safe Sync


g_s19

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I would like to get into studio photography. I have a Digital Rebel XT and a

430ex. I'm thinking of getting <A

HREF="http://www.alienbees.com/packages.html">The DigiBee package</A> from

AlienBees but with two AB800s instead of the 400s. Plus, I'm thinking of

getting a foldable(?) large softbox.

<P>

1. Are there any good websites that detail on how a studio is typically setup?

(I'm confused on where I should put my 430EX for one thing).<BR>

2. Any good or bad things to say about the AlienBees "foldable" softbox?<BR>

3. Do I need to get a flash meter or is the histogram on my rebel good enough?

If I should get a flash meter, what's the best and cheapest I can get?<BR>

4. Do I need to get a Wein safe sync? If I should get one, which one do I get?

I did a search on B&H and was confused on which one would be the correct one to

get.

<P>

Thanks for your help!

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2. If you're going to use it all/most of the time, does it even need to fold? AB softboxen are less durable than other brands, but work as good as others for starters, until you really figure out which $500 softbox ;) you really need.

 

3. A flashmeter can tell you your lighting ratios, whether your strobes are consistant, and what the exposure _will_ be instead of what it _should_have_ been, among other things, which is hard to pull out of a histogram. Don't get a cheap one. We use a Gossen Digipro F, which is simple and reliable and uses standard batteries. Other folks swear by Sekonic or Minolta.

 

4. ABs are safe to use with digital cameras.

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1. Don't use your 430EX in the studio situation unless you use it as a hair light or background light (MY opinon only). It is way weaker than the studio strobes. With two strobes, you have a main and a fill light or you can use them as a main and background/or hair light and use a reflector as a fill (this would be my choice).

 

2. I have "name brand" softboxes and my friend has the Alien Bee softboxes--I'm actually more impressed by the Alien Bee softboxes. I would feel safe in recommending any product from Paul Buff (maker of White Lightning strobe system and Alien Bees)--I've used their products for years. Larson softboxes and products are the best out there, but they are very expensive.

 

3. I would definitely get a quality flash meter! Although I use a Minolta IVF meter (which I love), Sekonic's new top-of-the-line digital meter makes me drool. With a meter, you will be able to measure each light seperately to set your desired lighting ratios. You can be fooled by the histogram in a lot of situations--one example is a portrait of a person in a black shirt against a dark background (low key photo). Although the face may be perfectly exposed, the histogram will be jammed to the left indicating all the darker tones and you might "read" that as being underexposed and wrongly try to compensate for it. People who think that histograms can be used for exposure in all situations simply don't understand what a histogram is for. Just remember, each DIGITAL camera (and I mean each camera, not just a line of cameras) exposes differently so you will have to calibrate your camera to your meter. For example, you set your camera ISO to 100 and your meter to ISO 100--and you get over exposed photos--not the meter's fault, but the way the camera is working. You can adjust the meter ISO up/down until you find an ISO on the meter that "matches" and exposes well with your camera set to ISO 100.

 

4. I agree with Rand on this point, you don't need a Wein unless you're using older strobe equipment. I would HIGHLY recommend you getting a radio or infrared (but preferrably radio) triggering set for your lights. You put the transmitter in the camera's hotshoe and the receiver on your Alien Bee. You are now free to shoot without the limits of a sync chord. Alien Bee has the set for about $80--but there are many brands and types out there. Once you use a radio transmitter system, you'll never go back to sync chords!

 

Good luck and have fun!!!

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