What is the best way to color manage an EOS 5D?

[meikojanke]

hello everybody,

 

now I work since 1,5 years digital but still I did not found the best way to get

the maximum out of the color. I work with Digital Photo Professional and mostly

I choose on of the color settings like Flash or shadow.... But still I have the

feeling the pictures are a bit to red and yellow so I always have to fix it

after in PS via Levels - color by color. How to make it easier - I shoot a lot

for commissions and try to work more efficient. Thanx for any Suggestions. Meiko

[colinsouthern]

Hello Meiko,

 

You might like to consider an Expodisc - point your browser at http://www.expodisc.com/index.php.

 

I've heard good things about them, but haven't tried them personally (although I've got 2 on order, arriving in a day or two).

 

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

[rddelliott]

If you are shooting in a studio, are you doing a custom white balance under the same lighting as your subject by shooting a gray or white card and setting your camera's white balance accordingly? Then, make your individual color adjustments in PS via a selective color adjustment layer.

[sgpix]

Another option to setting a custom WB is to shoot RAW, include a neutral/white card in a selection of shots and use Camera Raw (PS) to adjust.

 

You can copy/paste RAW WB settings across similarly lit pics.

 

Best way, in my experience... (if you use PS, of course!)

 

Simon

[fourfa]

I became a lot happier with my 5D's colors after calibrating it against a standard color chart:

 

http://www.rags-int-inc.com/PhotoTechStuff/AcrCalibration/

 

All the different RAW converters have profiles for the cameras, generated who knows how. Maybe those profiles are poor or just not to your taste. Maybe there's variation between the test camera and your camera. DPP seems to have fairly *accurate* profiles. I don't personally care about that (I used to shoot mostly Velvia); to my eyes the DPP results are a little boring. Adobe's converter gave me (by its defaults) pale and pastel colors. After doing the calibration song and dance above, the default colors I get through ACR are deep and rich without being gaudy. Perfect for me. Your taste may vary.

 

If efficiency is your goal, there's a lot of power in the calibration tab of the Adobe converters. You can define a standard and use it to make a consistent look across all your photos.

[ed_okie]

Meiko, the simple answer to controlling "red" (a notorious problem that continues to linger with Canon camera's for the past several generations), is to keep a careful eye on the - Saturation - setting, in the camera, and in post-processing. For whatever reason Canon design engineers haven't figured out the red problem.

I professionally shoot with the 5D with the Saturation control at -1, sometimes -2. (Color easily can be added back in post processing if necessary). Additionally, I always shoot with the camera's Contrast control to -4 (yes, you read that right, minus 4, the lowest level - it enhances dynamic range. It's easy to add contrast in post-production, a nightmare to remove it).

I'd strongly suggest PhotoStyle "Faithful" as the best choice. Forget all others, stick with one, learn it well; Faithful is faithful, also somewhat less problematic with reds. (Standard and Landscape enhances reds... exactly the opposite of your needs).

Equally important in controlling reds (and yellows): Color balance. If in doubt, select a slightly cool (blue) setting, i.e. 5000K or 4800K instead of Daylight or 5200K. (Same is true for Cloudy or Shade conditions). Then in post-processing, after starting from the too-cool setting, bring colors back to desired levels with the saturation control if needed. For whatever reason, reds and yellows generally render far better by this method.

Another worthy tip, if you have Lightroom, or Adobe's ACR 4.1, is to use the "Vibrancy" control exclusively for color enhancement, in place of saturation. Leave the "Saturation" slider at zero.

Summary: your "red" problem is not just you. All of us face the same thing. Reds can easily "glow" on the monitor or in print. (I am assuming you have already color-balanced your monitor; if not - that's the first step).

[fourfa]

good post - however none of the in-camera settings you mention are applied to the RAW files, only JPEG (and the internal preview thumbnail that shows on the rear LCD). Meiko, are you shooting RAW or JPEG?

[igord]

You also have to expose perfectly, I use external meter for serious shoots.

[beauh44]

I feel like a broken record, having recommended it a lot, but the book "Skin" by Lee Varis has a technique for calibrating your digital camera and creating a custom "profile" then saving it as a new camera default. He does this with good skin tones in mind and watching out for the "red shift" that certain cameras can exhibit. It's fairly involved and I've not tried it personally but it looks like it should work nicely. I believe I've seen the same chapter published in "Digital Photo Pro" magazine but can't recall which issue. Good luck!

[ed_okie]

Andy, your response, "good post - however none of the in-camera settings you mention are applied to the RAW files, only JPEG ...."

 

Canon's Digital Photo Professional, DPP, -does- reveal and reads pre-established camera settings in Raw, such as Faithful, Contrast, Tone, Sharpness, etc. They're on the DPP screen exactly as set by the camera. That function alone is a gold-mine of information and help... it leads to establishing solid working settings for the camera when you're out in the field. Once zeroed in this gives you the ability to go back and forth, Raw or Jpeg, trouble free and without further adjustment. Most important: results are consistent! It's a godsend.

BreezeBrowser Pro does the exact same thing, even better, with better clarity plus more choices. BB is a remarkable product, and is inexpensive.

Whereas, both of Adobe's $$PhotoShop products, the ACR 4.1 converter and that of Lightroom ignore camera inputs. Worse, both give erroneous Kelvin value readings when left at factory-default settings (far too warm and red by about 500K)

DPP is faster to use of all four programs. Sharpness and noise control capability is stellar, dare I suggest better than even ACR 4.1 (which is a bit complex).

The most remarkable thing about DPP: it is free, download the latest version from Canon's website (V3.0.1.5)

[fourfa]

it reads them only as input defaults, you can then select a different mode since it still hasn't touched the original RAW. besides, the thread is about the OP who isn't happy with DPP results.

[meikojanke]

At first I thank u all for the Answers! I shoot in RAW the problem is still that I move a lot in between a shooting - so all ways different Colors, furthermore the Australian sun is sooo full of blue and the light conditions change sometimes in minutes. I think of going for Ed Onki's solution it sounds like the best for my needing. Studio is easy I work with with balance and card. Like now I all ways check with a withe peace of paper my best results before I shoot. And of cause my monitor I calibrate... Thank u all again!

Wish u good light and captures! Meiko from Melbourne