Metering - Beach Event

[scottyboo]

Shooting a wedding on the beach at 5pm, southern side of island. Curious if I

should use spot metering on bride's dress, or select standard 3D-matrix ...

using Nikon D-200 with 2.8 lenses... I plan on taking some readings with a

Sekonic handheld as well, but wanted some input. Also, would a lens hood be

helpful or not needed. Thank you.

[Ed_Ingold]

You can certainly use a spot meter on a white dress. However, you should open up a stop or two from that reading because the dress really should be "white", but with some detail. Anything you meter directly will be interpreted as "medium gray" (13% to 18% reflectance), so darker objects and shadows will be too dark. This is one aspect of what is called "placement" of the exposure.

 

On a beach, a lot of light is reflected from the sand, which opens up shadows and increases the light on the subject. That's why the "sunny 16" rule needs to be bent a little. Using a meter takes this into account.

 

My preference would be to use an incident meter and probably a fill flash.

[DickArnold]

I did weddings on the ocean. I carried an incident meter to use for water backgrounds and back light. It's better than guessing. I never shoot without lens hoods. You lose contrast without them in addition to preventing flair.

[Jerry_]

Expose for the faces: if you 'spot' meter the white dress in beach sunshine, be prepared for _____?

 

 

 

To be safe, bracket your exposures. (The sunlight off the beach sand will "fool" your light meter. The bride's face needs the best exposure.)

[conraderb]

when I was learning photography, I was told to meter the face and open up a stop. but that was with film...

 

but wait! you have a D200! just look at the histogram...! right?

[conraderb]

DEFINITELY use a lens hood. I think that you should use a lens hood in most outdoor situations.

 

Also, I would be much more concerned about fill flash on a beach than metering for the bride's dress.

[pete_s.]

The problem I found with sunny days is that the highlights are too bright. So two options...

 

1) If you expose so you won't clip the highlights the rest of the scene will be rendered to dark. Setting the exposure with the histogram / blinking highlights will get you this. The image will need some fixing to raise the midtones.

 

2) On the other hand if you set the exposure so that everything has it's right tonality the highlights will blow. The incident meter will get you this. Nothing needs to be corrected in post. B&W will mask some blown higlights.

 

Of course if you can find some shade then you can capture the scene correctly in camera. An incident meter will get it right and there are no highlights to blow.

[stephen dohring]

Shoot something in RAW that looks slightly hot on your lcd - then use the exposure down in ACR or lightroom - all the detail is there. Always lean on the side of over exposure rather than under.

[michelle a.]

Digital or film it really doesn't matter... a camera's meter is still made to meter for 18% grey... so whatever. As far as I'm concerned it's the same.

 

Meter your midtones, and open up 1 to 2 stops to accomadate for the white dress.

 

Indeed digital is far less forgiving with over exposure and the dynamic range it can handle..... but all in all if you go 1/3 to 1 stop over you should be good. If you know how to use fill flash all the better.

And yes as said above use a lens hood.

[picturesque]

I found it odd that you specify that the shoot is on the beach, but then ask about two different metering methods, since metering method is not related to location...unless you are saying that it will be bright sun/contrasty on the beach so which of the two methods is best?

 

In bright, contrasty light, a matrix meter is less successful because it often goes for a medium ground between the two extremes, and the result is often burned highlights. I have, though, worked out a useful compromise with my Canon cameras when forced to shoot in extremely fast changing circumstances or where the light is changing constantly and where even the slightest fiddling with controls would cost you a shot. I put the camera in an automated mode--aperture or shutter priority--and minus compensate the ambient by about 2/3 stop for medium contrast scenes. I then use the flash at "normal", which for me is +2/3 compensation in evaluative flash metering mode, which performs automatic fill flash reduction. The resulting balance of flash and ambient is usually quite nice. In contrastier light, such as bright sun, I minus compensate the ambient at least another 2/3 stop or more. This keeps the highlights from burning out. Of course, subject lightness/darkness and backlighting require even more compensation, but most of the time, this method delivers where trying to use manual would be too slow. You'd have to experiment heavily with your camera and flash combo to find out what will work for you.

 

Manual control is better if you have the time and/or the light is constant, though, and if the scene is brightly lit by the sun with no clouds in view (and not right before dusk), there is no need to meter or keep changing the camera setting. Bright sun is f11, 1/250th, ISO 100. Whenever I shoot in bright sun, that's what I set my camera to--actually I use f10. Sometimes, when the subject matter and/or background allow (not usually white wedding gowns, though), I overexpose by a stop for a more natural looking scene. When I photograph outdoor wedding ceremonies in bright sun--I set the camera there and then work on flash compensation for fill flash. Any fairly constant lighting will also give you a "one setting" situation. That's why I use a handheld incident meter. I find the spot-meter-the-white-dress method much less accurate. For one thing, which part of the white dress? And with 1/3 stop making a difference with digital, it is a matter of experimentation just how much to open up.

 

Re the lenshood--I use one all the time. Cutting out stray light from hitting the front of the lens is important at any time, but even more important when the sun is strong.

[robbie_caswell]

At 5PM there will still be a need for fill flash. Use the Sekonic as much as possible. Much easier for me to determine fill flash using it.

[russ_butner___portland__or]

I agree with Conrad. The use of a lens hood can be quite beneficial. I rarely shoot without one. I've gone to using hoods, that have caps that fit over them. During downtime, it prevents the ocean spray-scum and, or, blowing sand or snow, from adhering to my lenses.

 

Russ

[steve_levine]

You need to take some time off and learn this stuff first before shooting for money. Go to the beach and test shoot it every which way, and take careful notes.

As for lens shades. Never shoot without one. The stray light they block, ruins sharpness and lowers contrast.

[eric v]

Also consider ND filter. I find that on the beach my underexposing D70 bodies perform great at 0 exp. compensation. Fill flash straight on at -2/3.

[robbie_caswell]

Become one with your Sekonic. With a little practice you can extremely proficient and fast without ever having to look at the camera meter, or fighting for a look in an LCD that you can barely read.

 

I find beach shooting the toughest of all. That is why I consistently use my Sekonic. It becomes my most important tool.

 

Sand gets in your gear, physically slows you down, tires you more quickly. God forbid it's a blustery day with sand and salt flying about. Except for the last hour or so, the sun is harsh and will challenge all your skills.

[scottyboo]

Thanks all for the constructive responses given.. I just wanted to confirm what I thought was the correct way to go. Nadine - metering method re I don't want to blow out the dress and clip highlights, which is why I asked. Robbie, yeap, agreed which is why I just wanted to run it through the community here for assurance.

 

Steve, wow, thanks for your constructive response - how I wish people who can't seem to throw a dig would just simply stay silent. I can only imagine how many questions out there don't get asked for answers like that.....