Fill flash with PZ-1p + Promaster FTD 7000m (slave)

[petre_petrov1]

Hello, I hope you can help me with this quandry, which may have an obvious

answer for some (if so, excuse the stupid question):

 

I am using a Pz-1p with a Promaster FTD 7000M flash as a slave unit (triggered

by the built-in flash). The camera manual says that exposure compensation can

be set with either the built-in unit or a mounted one. But it says nothing

about how a slave strobe is handled. If I set a fill-flash compensation (-1,

say), will this command the built-in flash, or will it be commmunicated to the

slave as well?

 

Thanks!

[michael_kuhne]

On this model, the slave operates independently. There is no control of it from the camera. It is set off by its sensor reacting to another flash's light source. It is best with that set-up, which I have also used, to take exposure readings with a flash light meter to determine the best aperture setting.

 

Two other film bodies that do offer wireless slave control from the camera are the ZX-L (MZ-6) and MZ-S. In that case, you must also purchase the latest Pentax dedicated flash models with the wireless features.

[mountainvisions]

your slave would be optical (or RF) but it doesn't matter. Slaves with any non P-TTL flash do not get communication from the controller/master flash wirelessly.

 

So you need to set you flash to manual and adjust the output power and determine the ratio of light from each flash.

 

The compensation on the PZ-1P works on TTL flashes mounted on the camera or tethered with a TTL cord. It also works with the RTF.

 

For what it's worth, for most of my flash work (and flash work is a weakness for me, which I am building on, so take all this with a grain of salt) I use wireless RF activation and manual flash manual metering.

 

This is despite the fact I have 2 P-TTL units and the K10D/ist D can act as controllers. Simply put for studio or sports type work the P-TTL isn't consistent enough. The results can vary shot to shot. I prefer to set the units manual for consistent results. And for sports/action P-TTL eats flash power. I usually can use my flashes at 1/2 or 1/4 power in manual and get multiple shots per charge cycle. P-TTL yields 1 shot/5 seconds or so.

 

I would love if Pentax would offer a alternative battery grip in the next model (K5D perhaps) with a built in RF wireless controller. Since the battery grip is purely optional they could charge a bit for the grip, but the integrated RF would be an amazing innovation. Essentially a Pocket wizard in the grip with no loose transmitters or cables.

[petre_petrov1]

Thank you guys! This was very helpful indeed. Michael, since you are using the Promaster, may I venture another (possibly stupid) question? I do not have the manual for the 7000M, and for that reason cannot understand what it means to reduce the flash by 1/2, 1/4, etc. Does this reduce the overall output (thus saving battery power), or does it mean that the flash underexposes by 1, 2, etc. stops (thus functioning as a FEC)?

[petre_petrov1]

Basically, the preceding question asks: Can (automatic) FEC be set on the flash itself, or only from the camera's controls? (In this case, I am talking about a mounted flash, not a wireless slave.)

[mountainvisions]

Petre,

 

When using a manual flash you have to use the output power ratios to adjust the flash output.

 

Yes, it does reduce battery demand to fire 1/2 power, it also allows you to fire more flashes per burst.

 

When I shot sports with the PZ-1P I would put the power on my shoe flash to 1/4 or 1/8th for fill and get several shots per flash cycle at the 1/250th flash sync.

 

FEC only works with TTL, P-TTL or I suppose the Auto setting where the flash reads the light. In manual you must use the power settings.

[michael_kuhne]

Actually, I do not use the same model flash as you do for the slave, but that makes no difference in this case. Any would work the same.

I like to fire my slave into a reflective umbrella (say to the right oblique of subject), and trigger it with a Pentax dedicated hot-shoe mounted swivel/bounce flash, bounced off an opposing (left) wall, white or very light in color.

 

With the PZ-1p, the built-in flash can also be used simultaneously for fill. I use a meter to determine correct aperture. You can try having the hot shoe flash in TTL mode, and then in manual mode. The output setting of the slave flash will determine how much of the exposure light upon you subject comes from its direction, compared to the light hitting your subject from the other sources. The meter gives an overall reading, unless your meter can spot read.