D200 + SB-800 -- overflashing in dark situations

[victor_virtucio]

I shot a wedding last night. One camera was the D200 + 28-70 f/2.8 + SB-800 on

a T-frame, attached by SC-17.

 

Settings were 3D-Matrix Metering, ISO 100-800, 0.0 EV, -0.3 Flash Comp, WB

Flash. I was dragging my shuuter to let background ambient bleed in.

 

During the reception, that setup was overflashing. The Bride and Groom -- both

dressed in white (the groom had his tux jacket off, revealing white shirt and

vest) would be 2+ stops overflashed and the only thing I could do was drop my

flash compensation to -1 or -2. But, when my main subjects were 15 feet away

from me, I'd have to change my flash comp back to -.3 or 0.0 to get a proper

exposure.

 

Any ideas what happend. I've never had this problem until last night.

 

Thanks in advance.

Attached are two photos, taken moments apart. I shot from a fixed position, the

Bridesmaids were farther from me than the B/G. No changes made to the camera

between the two shots.<div></div>

[erik_loza]

My D200 seems to like -1.75 stops on the SB800 for ambient fill light, subject to minor correction if there are hot spots in the scene (like your image). I just keep it set at that. Have you tried this?

[victor_virtucio]

Here's another example where the foreground is overflashed while the background is properly exposed, even though my subject takes up a third of the space and is in the center.<div></div>

[tonybeach]

Center-weighted metering is less likely to do this than Matrix metering, which sometimes (and unpredictably) gets tripped up when used in conjunction with CLS.

[erik_loza]

The groom's white uniform and the dark background are what's giving you problems. Might be worth bouncing the flash, rather than directly. I would mock up a scene and experiment a bit. Good luck.

[lex_jenkins]

Weddings and any b&w events are full of tricky situations. Besides the clothing contrasts there are often mirrors on walls and, in the top photos you provided, backlighting from windows.

 

Does the D200 have the option for FV Lock? If so, you might find it handy for this. I use it routinely with my D2H and SB-800. Zoom in on the subject for which perfect exposure is most important, set the FV Lock, then zoom back out, recompose as necessary, and take the photos. Objects closer to the camera will receive more exposure; those farther away get less; but the main subject will be properly exposed. It's essential that *you* don't move when using this trick, tho'. If you do it's necessary to reset the FV Lock to compensate.

 

There are other tricks, but try this one if the option is available on the D200.

[victor_virtucio]

Thanks for the advice.

My dilemma, however, is that this is a new problem. I've done several weddings with this D200 and only now has this problem cropped up.

Secondly, my second body was a D80 with a 12-24mm f/4 and SB-600. It didn't have this problem at all that night. Similar camera settings as the D200.

I will try the FV Lock. I've never paid attention to it before. I'm experienced enough with the 3-D Matrix vs. Center-weighted to know that this isn't the cause of the problem. But Using TTL-BL (which is my default) might be the case and will try just plain TTL.

Any other insights would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks.

[frank_skomial]

Do not know why !

I use D200 and SB-800 and SC-29, and do not get problem like yours.

Possibly the difference between SC-17 and SC-29 ? I use the Auto Focus assist light turned ON on the SC-29. It looks like you are shooting in low ambient light, but your pictures do not have focusing problems, Though flash output determination could possibly benefit from the extra focusing support light closer to the flash placement.

 

Let's wait what others will say on this aspect.

[g-man1]

Check to see where your lens had focussed (I only know how to do this by scrolling through the display while your CF card is in the D200). I've had this problem when the lens had mistakenly focussed on the fore/back-ground.

[lex_jenkins]

Using the BL option on the SB-800 introduces a potentially pesky variable for indoor photography. It's an excellent option for daylight photography when faster shutter speeds are desirable, but depending on the preset minimum shutter speed in the camera (at least with my D2H), the shutter speed can vary from either 1/15 or 1/30 on up, usually no more than 1/60 tho'.

 

Skipping the BL option minimizes variables: room light; backlighting from windows; etc. Also, try the snap-on diffuser dome with the flash head at various angles. Most celebrity photographers who do use diffuser domes seem to aim the flash straight ahead. But they're usually working outdoors or in venues without bounce-worthy surfaces. I like to aim the flash head with diffuser straight up in room with 10' or lower ceilings.

 

BTW, I'm a big fan of tabloid celebrity photography (I don't call 'em paparzzi if they're not harassing anyone) because the quality of the balanced flash photos is often very good. I'd be happy to have flash exposures that good for a wedding or other event. I read the tabs, People, US, watch E! on TV, etc., just to see celeb photographers at work. It's interesting and you can pick up tips on working with people quickly, getting them to pose without taking too much time. These photographers are *really* good, despite the disparaging "paparazzi" label.

[cenelsonfoto]

Very simply put: Get camera and flash into manual mode. Take control of your light.

<p>

<a href="http://www.planetneil.com/faq/flash-techniques.html">Required reading HERE</a><p>

<a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/">and HERE.</a><p>

Good luck. You can do it.<br>

C.

[cenelsonfoto]

An example: D70S, SB26 tethered via synch-cord, Lumiquest Pro Softbox on the flash, flash mounted on a monopod for extension as needed - in this case, held close to rig - camera handheld, camera/flash in manual mode. Flash at 1/8 power, camera at 1/30th f5.6, ASA200, manually focused.<div></div>

[roy_gumpel]

and about your wedding stuff with that flash close to the camera... get that baby as far away

as your arms can do! and the monopod of course is great. Your photos will become many

times cooler(hip, not color) ... at no cost to you!

 

but really, this manual mode on remote with the 800 and 600. how the hell do you get

it there??? Should be a no brainer, but it's probably me who's the nobrainer. when I get into

manual mode, I seem to lose the possibility of the remote every time. What da??

 

roy gumpel<div></div>

[michael_vonal]

Whenever that happened to me it was always the TTL cord contacts being dirty or faulty. I always carry extra one with me for weddings. Try to clean the contacts with a hard eraser or stores have a solution they sell for it.

 

Good luck