eric_cook Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 There's some ghosted shapes within the photos when they're over exposed. It seems as though different parts of the image are getting exposed differently. The left 1/3 of the frame is dark, with a slight curve and the bottom is much lighter. Any clues? please help.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m_barbu1 Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Where was your strongest light source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aleskoubik Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 What lens? Do you have the same ghosting with different lenses? Are you using lens shade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric_cook Posted April 12, 2007 Author Share Posted April 12, 2007 It happened with mutliple (natural) light sources. It has not happend with a powerpack and 2 speedotron M11 strobes. Has happened with multiple lenses. Canon 28MM 1:1.8 and a Canon 28-70 1:2.8 It seems to happen with exposures around 160th and faster. Although not with the strobes. No lens shade. Thanks in advance for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beauh44 Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Hi Eric, Is it consistently reproduceable or intermittent? I ask because if you do end up having to send the camera in for service and the problem is intermittent, you'll want to be very emphatic about that when explaining the problem. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark u Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 It looks like a shutter failure problem - the third thread in the past 24 hours with similar symptoms, albeit with different camera models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_dunn2 Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 <p>If there's a shutter problem, that's only part of it. The shutter travels vertically, so while it could account for the lower part of the frame getting different exposure than the upper part, it can't explain why the left side would get a different exposure than the right side.</p> <p>The thing on the left looks a lot like a shadow ... are you sure there's nothing that could be causing a shadow from one of your light sources? And at the bottom, the first thing that came to my mind was the edge of a snow drift, with the part at the bottom of the frame facing towards you and the light source and therefore being brighter, with a sharp transition at the top of the drift.</p> <p>If it's reproducible at faster shutter speeds, then take two pictures that are identical, but one with a shutter speed that makes the problem happen, and one that doesn't. Post both so we can see what the frame looks like when it's all good.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aleskoubik Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 It could be the mirror when traveling down. I would send the camera to Canon with images enclosed. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark u Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 The curve bounding the underexposed portion is reminiscent of the curves shown in the images linked from this thread and its dependents caused by shutter problems: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Kj9o The overexposed portion looks like a sticky shutter blade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andre_fortin Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 I have seen this problem with film cameras also. definetely a shutter/mirror return problem seek Doctor Canon for minor surgery! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_oleson Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 If the shutter is like other vertical blade SLR shutters, the blades don't travel straight up and down but in an arc - a blade that's damaged and hanging crooked might make an image like that, and it would be progressively worse at higher shutter speeds. I would do a series of blank-wall exposures at different speeds on manual control so you can see exactly what it's doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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