What to buy?

[robert loop]

Buy an ikoflex Ia. Around 150 $ you can get one in mint condition. I have a lot of cameras but

for discret shooting and pleasure to compose a picture it is great !!

Rolleiflex is marginaly better when wide open shooting is neeeded .

 

But if you want one to shoot sport a canon eos 33v is really the best, not expensive and

it follows your eye movement to shoose where it must be sharp !

[weezul]

Dan, I agree as to Flexarets being tricky, but I do not think Karen would benefit from a heavy piece of gear like Mamiya C series. At an "entry" level any kind of w o r k i n g TLR would be all right if it can only provide a range of time and aperture settings. Rolleiflex is expensive, Rolleicord much less so, still great, Minolta Autocord is another great camera (at least the one I have, even with its broken focusing lever knob, notorious problem of many of these cameras). Kievs (both 60 and 88) tended to be unreliable, but I don't know about the new<a href=http://www.araxfoto.com/cameras/>Arax cameras</a> - are they any better? anyone knows? Karen, you'll definitely need a nice CdS or silicon photodiode handheld lightmeter with your TLR, but most you will need some good reading about "old-fashioned" photography. You;ll find a lot here on p'net, but look for books too, and not the colorful "How to Use Your New Digital Camera" kind of books... As to folders - they are lovely and attract attention, some provide excellent result (like Ikonta) - when you try to make any choices remember that rangefinder is a must - guessed estimates of distance can be a problem - middle format is much less forgiving than 35mm (longer lenses = narrow depth-of-field!). I mean, you can learn, but ease of focusing is also one point that is an advantage of SLRs and TLRs. When you have chosen your camera, you'll need film and chemicals. Start with "forgiving" emulsions, I'd recommend Ilford HP5 Plus or - if you do not want to develop your own films - XP2 Super (C-41 process!). Wow! I could talk for hours, couldn't I? Best regards!

[frank r]

Karen: I am surprised no one has mentioned Jurgen Kreckel. Check out his site at www.certo6.com. Jurgen has already gone through his cameras and fixed everything; very much worth it when dealing with older cameras.

 

Look for a four-element (tessar-type) lens and at least a non-coupled range finder (a coupled one if you can afford it). Also, I have found that a folder that has the door fold down instead of sideways is a lot more comfortable to use; it sits in your hand like the lens of a 35mm SLR.

[arjun_mehra]

For waist-level photography, I love Exaktas. The older-style finders have a somewhat dimemr picture, but focus very well; the newer-style ones, a brighter picture, but a little harder to focus. The design of either finder makes focusing with the magnifier, outdoors, pretty comfortable. Of course, it's a big hassle trying to photograph fast-moving subjects, as well as to orient the camera vertically, with the waist-level finder.

[alex macphee]

My red-bellows Isolette II is a Jurgen Kreckel renovated model, identical (save for the colour) to the blue-bellows model pictured on his home page. The lens on this is the Solinar, which is a Tessar-type four-element design, and produces very appealing and clean images, especially stopped down a little.

 

My Isolette doesn't have a rangefinder, coupled or uncoupled, but it's easy enough to acquire a separate rangefinder which can clip on to the flash shoe. I got two rangefinders, conveniently one in feet and one in metres, on Ebay. The seller was somewhat dishonest about the condition, because neither worked at all and the viewfinders were completely opaque, but it was relatively easy to take them apart, clean them, put them together, and re-calibrate them. (Tip: always work using an upturned box lid, lined with cloth, so that when that little ball bearing you never knew was there falls out, it's not lost.) I now have two good and reliable rangefinders to use with all of my folders. Even if you don't have a rangefinder, you can learn to guess pretty well and use the principle of hyperfocal distance setting to get good results in most situations.

 

Here's a pic of one of my Isolettes, with an accessory rangefinder attached.<div></div>

[tim_stephens]

Karen,

Like the others, I highly recommend that you learn to develop your own film. It affords you better quality control over what labs do, and it is very easy. I actually find it very relaxing to process film. 120 is easy to handle, and the image quality is a substantial step up from 35mm. Your first roll, even with a modest MF camera, will impress you.

You mention that you plan to travel with the camera and are open to learning but don't want to be frustrated. In no way to discourage you, just be aware that you must be able to accept that you are not 'taking' a picture, but 'making' a picture. You will need to set the camera manually and advance the film on each shot. You'll need to think about exposure and either adapt your vision to guesstimate light well, or buy a light meter. Focus is an easier aspect - often you can guesstimate focus for quick reaction times, or you allow and accept that focus will take a moment, not microseconds as with the usual point and shoots. But the upside is that by slowing down and thinking more, you will be a better photographer, as you consider light, focus, and composition. Your frequency of quality images will increase, versus the usual spray and pray of instant photography. Just allow extra time (especially if you are travelling) and accept that mistakes will happen - I guarantee you that you will take that amazing photo, only to realize later on, that you forgot to set the aperture, although you did get the film speed right! Acknowledge these minor issues, dive in, and enjoy.

I also recommend folders if you are traveling. They are slim, handy, and inconspicuous. I use a Zeiss Super Ikonta IV (1960 ish) folder, and although my Hasselblad (read: square cube and big lens) produces technically better images, I rarely carry it unless I'm doing something where a bulky camera bag doesn't matter.

Finally, carry a backup camera if your trip is a once in a lifetime type trip. You are dealing with older cameras, and that territory brings the potential for mechanical setbacks. I suggest you buy a better known name, and even consider that it may need full service before use. Many of these cameras have not seen new grease or a cleaning since the space race.

Don't be discouraged by any of my cautious natured comments; acknowledge and anticipate the potential for challenges, and then get on with the amazing journey!