Using LF equipment in temps below 10F

[anton_de_flon]

I am new to LF photography and recently obtained a Shen Hao HZX4x5II with

Fujinon 150mm for the purpose of shooting landscapes. It seems like some of

the best winter light coincides with the most brutal winter termperatures in

Upstate New York. While it probably seems masochistic to some, I'm wondering

if anyone has had experience shooting in extreme cold with LF equipment and

can give some pointers as to looking after the gear. I am particularly

worried about damaging the lens diaphram, shutter or bellows. Just the other

day, it was minus 12F and I opted to use my familiar MF equipment to be on the

safe side. After hiking 7 miles, the shutter in the Mamiya 645e stuck and I

was left with beautiful memories, but no pictures! Luckily, once warmed back

up it sounds mormal again. The battery was new. I'm worried the same or

worse might happen to the mechanical aparatus in the Copal O. Any input would

be greatly appreciated!

[scott_kathe1]

Hi Anton,

 

I was shooting with my Shen Hao 4x5 the other day and my 150mm Nikkor-W f5.6 along side a 'bargin' F3 from KEH to make sure the F3 was working. I was using an incident light meter due to all the snow. It was just before sunset and the temps were below zero F and all the F3 (electronic shutter) Velvia shots were spot on. The two 4x5 Velvia chromes were overexposed by about a stop, I was shooting at F32 for 1/4 second and in hindsight my shutter sounded like it was open for more like 1/2 second.

 

The FP4+ film I developed turned out perfect because I forgot to adjust the film speed on my light meter from 100 for the Velvia down to 64 (my film speed for FP4+) when I metered for the FP4+. Lucky I guess. I have a post over on the Large Format Photography forum and talked with someone who does CLAs on large format lenses. The Copal shutter I have is quite often over lubed and under very cold temperatures the shutter slows down. I am going to try and do two things. First use filters and f stops that get me into a 1 second exposure so I can use the bulb setting on my shutter. Second, I'm thinking about getting a stopwatch and actually seeing what my 1, 1/2, 1/4 and 1/8 second times actually are and set my shutter accordingly. Since this is my only lens I don't want to lose it for the time needed for a CLA:(

 

I don't think you have to worry about damaging the camera. I was concerned about fogging up the ground glass but that didn't happen;)

 

Use your camera-I don't think you will hurt it;)

 

Scott

[gluteal cleft]

Do like the old-timers did, and use a lens cap as your shutter. :-)

 

steve

[wieslaw1]

I shoot with my Linhof in winter, sometimes at -15C, but I worry

about my fingers not the camera.

[AaronFalkenberg]

The biggest thing to worry about is breathing on the ground glass. Seriously. What a pain that is at -15C right in the middle of composing.

 

I try not to use my wideagle bellows when it gets really cold. It's a bit on the old side and gets quite crispy so I don't want to put a pinhole crack in it.

 

Notice I haven't mentioned anything about copal shutters. If they are relatively new, or in good shape it is a complete non-issue. I've had my spotmeter battery fail on numerous cold occaisons, though. Makes for good mental exposure calculation.

[big toys are better]

Always a good idea to "work" the shutter with a few exposures at your time setting so any stickiness is rubbed off and the mechanism is completely freed up. If it sounds slow or uneven while doing so it's probably best to not use it or else try to compensate.

[jeff bishop]

It isn't uncommon for a shutter to drag in real cold weather, though it might be spot on in warmer climates. I would take the shutter outside, let it get cold, then test it for time at one second. If it seems to shoot accurate at 1 second, you are good to go. Drag the rest of the camera out a take some photo's.

 

There's a lot to be said for those new Zippo Hand Warmers. A bit pricey but worth it.

[eirik berger]

I dont think you have to worry about damaging your gear, as it has been said several times

your shutters may go slow in low temperatures. If so, leave the shutter open and use a hat

or lens cap. It least that is what i prefer, the shutter speeds tend to be quite long until the

sun returns in early march. The other day I was out photographing with my Toyo 45CF in

-32C (about -25F if I am not wrong) and it worked like a charm. <br><br>

 

The worst problems I experience in the cold are freezing fingers (from focusing and

handling filmholders, filters and adjustments on the lens) and ice on the ground glass

from me breathing on it under the dark cloth. I found a way to avoid it by cutting a 12-15"

piece of tube and put it in my mouth and put the other end out below the dark cloth

allowing my breath to escape without being in contact with the ground glass. <br><br>

 

If I were you I would have the Mamiya checked, I have used both Mamiya 100S and ProTL

extensively in very low temperatures (-45C or -49F) and it has allways worked fine. I did

not use the winder though, I replaced it with the manual "crank". A golden rule in

photographing in low temperatures is to depend on as few batteries as possible. When

shooting LF I only have to worry about my Sekonic light meter, and it is no hassle to bring

spare batteries for it.<br><br>

 

Good luck, and rememeber - images taken in freezing cold tend to warm even better when

viewed on a light table through a descent loupe. So just get out there with your Shen

Hao.<br><br>

 

Best regards,<br>

Eirik Berger<br>

Longyearbyen, Svalbard

[bohdan_pryszlak]

My thoughts on shooting in the cold:

1. Anything battery-powered will not fair well in extreme cold so I am not surprised you had some problems. Don't assume your meter is reading acurately either.

2. Let your equipment gradually warm up in a plastic bag to prevent condensation from forming on it when you bring it back into your warm house. This could take a few hours so don't rush to get at it.

3. Lens element separation: An "old-timer" once told me that eventually, after repeated exposure to extreme cold, some lenses can start to separate as the glass contracts and expands over time. It's never happened to me but it makes some sense on a certain level. Maybe someone can comment on this point a little further.

4. Dress warmly - F8 and be there!

[anton_de_flon]

Hi Folks, Thank you all very much for your input. It's a relief to hear from your experiences that I don't have to be overly worried. I will certainly pay attention to the shutter to make sure it's operating normally before making an exposure, and if necessary increase the exposure time so I can count off the seconds. Until such time as I get my Mamiya checked, I will probably take my trusty old Nikon FM2 or F100 along as a back up (both have worked down to minus 30F on numerous occasions without complaints). Best Regards, Anton.