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Morocco


cjburbank

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I am heading over to Morocco next month. Specifically I'll be in the Tangier

area. I am a little nervous going over there with my equipment. Is it safe for

me to carry my camera around, or am I going to attract attention. I don't want

to attract too much attention, since I am an American, and unfortunately, the

world doesn't like us right now.

 

Any advice? Is it worth lugging my tripod over too?

 

Chris

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I have not been to Tangier specifically, but traveled extensively in 1991 and 2003 visiting Fez, Marrakech, the desert and southern areas as well.

First of all the government there made a huge effort (not sure when but locals mentioned not long after 9/11) to improve the experience of visitors to the large tourist areas. The difference in the big cities was remarkable. Marrakech used to be a pain, within half a mile of the Souk touts would accost you to be your guide and no sooner would you get rid of one then another would grab you.

 

On the last trip no one ever approached us and we went everywhere. It was much less 'exotic' in some ways but it was clear that no violations would be tolerated. So I would take that as a sign you may end up safer than in many US cities.

 

Although the U.S. has indeed ruined its image abroad and it is affecting Morocco, we were always welcomed by people we talked with and certainly buying someone a cup of tea, or buying a rug from someone can gain you some interesting experiences.

 

We were in Essaouria during a Gnawa music festival and were out listening to musicians until 2 or 3 in the AM, buried among throngs of Moroccans and never felt uneasy - even when a pop band was playing anti-bush songs.

 

Another point is that Morocco is visited very heavily by Europeans, so unless you wear an obvious 'American' outfit no one is going to single you out from the hordes of French, Italians and British.

 

Do realize though that poverty is widespread there and unemployment is very high, so don't be careless about equipment - especially in your room but again apply the same common sense you would in NY.

 

I am not much of a fan of tripods when traveling, but there are some stunning architectural sites there and with the kasbahs, souks, medinas and all the rest - and in the narrow passages the light can be dim.

 

The variety in the country is astounding too. If you are in Tangier try to make it over the Rif mtns. to Chefchaouen, a very interesting town with colorful purple, blue, green washed houses and winding alleyways.

 

Finally realize that commerce is a key form of interaction there. You can be put off by all the vendors but if you 'work' with them a bit you might gain some insights - we ended up having a great meal in a wonderous house in Fez belonging to a rug dealer. In Zagora a jeweler lent us his car to drive to M'hamid and another group took us to a wedding and later to a secret restaurant where they ate pork and drank wine.

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Tangiers is a great place for photos, but I would keep everything to a bare minimum in equip. - one zoom lens, one camera, that's it. Your health is worth more.

 

The hotel room we were given had someone else in it already and there was nowhere to hide my camera in our room when we went to eat. I could have picked the lock myself. That was not the best hotel, but not far off.

 

All touists will have cameras, you just want to make sure that someone else has one that looks more expensive. Of course, you can wear a football jersey from Madrid, or a Cdn flag, or just dress conservatively - my choice. This is one place that you can't dress like the locals.

 

After our tour guide had finished taking our group through the souke (sp?) I decided to go again without him. He found out and dragged me out. He wanted to get his tip before I was killed. I certainly felt safe, but he didn't. You can judge youself. BTW, the countryside from what I saw was totally desolate unless you get a little farther away. Woderful opportunities in the markets though. Take the time to see the country without your camera.

 

Doug

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I've carried a medium format camera and lenses through Morocco. I did not go to Tangiers (really worth getting farther into the country from what I have heard about Tangiers) but I did have to go to Casablanca, which I believe is similar.

 

Nowhere did anyone threaten me or show the slightest interest in the camera. The Moroccans who are scammers tend to take tourists to merchants and then get the merchants to sell goods at wildly marked up prices and then collect the markup from the merchant afterwards. This is much safer for them. Petty crime is treated very harshly compared to Europe and the US and it's safer for them to get the merchant kickbacks than risk the consequences of being caught for theft.

 

Interesting thing happened while I was in Fes - I dropped a very small piece of equipment in a black case on the floor of a taxi taking me back to the hotel. It was a fairly expensive piece of equipment, but it is doubtful that the taxi driver knew that. When I came out of the hotel several hours later, the taxi driver was sitting there waiting for me with it. The hotel doesn't allow the drivers to come in and he had no idea what my name was. I think he would have stayed until the next day in order to return it.

 

Overall, I would say that Morocco is a safer place with lots of camera gear than the US or the Paris train station.

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In the short time I was there in 2005, 75% of the tangier taxi drivers tried to overcharge me. One guy was asserting that I had to pay a +50% night rate (and then some more just for good measure) when it was the middle of the day. Everywhere else in Morocco, the taxi drivers were great.

 

I'd say it was fine to carry a camera around, but the place is not as photogenic as some other Moroccan places. Wandering around by yourself late at night, I'd be a little more wary.

 

If you get bored, take a boat to Gibraltar, climb the hill and visit the monkeys.

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Chris:

 

I second the above comments about it being safer than NYC or Paris. I spent 2 weeks in Morocco in 2005. I obviously looked like a tourist. Not much of a problem anywhere with a camera, I had a video and a DSLR with me, at all times, one or the other was out. In general, the people are quite friendly, just wave the camera at them, and most of them nod ok. If they don't put the camera down and try someone else. I made a deal with the water sellers before taking pictures, other than that, no one even wanted any money for the pictures.

 

The only problem was, when taking pictures of the kids, they all wanted to see themselves on the screen. Lots of local tourists had cameras as well, not just point and shoots, but DSLR's. In fact, in most major citys there are still steet photographers.

 

Walked through the Medina's at night, no problem, but it does get crowed a times. There are other areas I think you might not be so lucky in, however, I think they would be after your wallet rather than your camera. I always bargined with the taxi driver's (they expect it, part of the way of life there and there are either no meters or they don't work)- helps to know what the price is in advance. Check with the hotel staff, they usually know. If they won't come down (be reasonable a little bit above the local rate is ok), go to the next guy in line and try them. Never failed for me. By the way, I was told by a local not to pay the taxi driver in advance, only when you get to your destination.

 

I took a monopod with me, I find it much more useful than a tripod, I think you'd have trouble using a tripod in most areas as it can be quite crowed, especially at night.

 

Have a good time, lots of colorful things to photograph, I took over 2000 shots in two weeks.

 

LGH

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Chris, I was in Morocco last summer. You can read my experiences here:

 

http://aaronlinsdau.com/gear/articles/morocco_may06_1.html

 

Some city's taxis will try and rape you, others don't even blink. Negotiate it before riding or get the meter going. I guarantee the meter will be cheaper than a negotiate. There are other taxis. The more touristed, the worse they are.

 

Moroccans are a great and helpful people, as explained in my travel journal. They can tell that you're not from there, but they get enough Europeans that it's not like being in deep China. Word has it that Tangiers is the worst for pestering, so I didn't visit there.

 

I didn't lug a tripod around and was happy. A bean bag worked just fine for me. In busy places, you're going to suffer. I missed a few set-up shots but I got so many more because I -didn't- have a tripod. I towed around a D200 with lens.

 

One thing to do is put black gaffers tape over your camera labels, in my case "Nikon" on the top and "D200" on the left, plus tape over the lens cap label. It's a photojournalist technique I learned. You already stick out with it but you don't want to advertise your $6,000 in equipment in any city.

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Hi Chris

The arab and muslim world still love you (american people)and specially in Morocco.

I live in london but originally from Fes Morocco. the perception you have about Morocco is saddely generated from the unjuste western media propaganda against any country whish has islam or arabic in its meta tags. Breifly i can assure you my friend that you will be wellcome and inded safe in Morocco not (only )because the goverment will be protect you but mainly by the unique hospitaly of people, the warmed and the big heart of local any where in Morocco. Yes few incedent may (god forbid )happens but the cause will never be you looks or what are carrying . Moroccan have seen cameras before so do not worry and concentrat on enjoing your trip. by the way i may suggest a route whish can be fruitful to you if you are intend to take unique pic the route is from Ourzazat , boumalan dades, tinerhir. its the valley behind the atlas mountains.

Goog luck and safe journey

 

From a Moroccan who still resppect and loves american people

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Having Been to Morocco on many occasions; I have found the people very hospitable and kind. I have not been to Tangier, but like Casablanca if you act sensibly and take local advice on the safe places to visit you should not have any problems.

 

Marrakech Fez and the Atlas Mountains are by far the best places photographically and culturally. Marrakech is a personal favourite . The main Square of Djemma el Fna is one of the world most exiting places.

 

The Government clean up has made Marrakech much more relaxing now.

 

Be aware that a lot of Moslems do not want to be photographed. Look very carefully at anyone you are pointing a camera. If you see a negative reaction don?t under any circumstances fire that shutter . Best strategy is point at your camera and smile. You will soon find out whether they are happy of not to have their photo taken.

 

Attempts at sneaky candid shots are likely to have a unhappy reaction. If you do want to do this, have your traveling companion pretend to pose for you. If you have a telephoto lens you could take a panning action firing the shutter to one side of your companion and then pretend to photograph him or her.

 

The only hassle I encountered in Marrakech were the Water sellers who will pounce on anyone who points a camera in their direction demanding Dirams .

 

If you are going to give someone money for photographs, make them work for it; have a few laughs; get them to pose and get their friends along as well. That way you will have an unforgettable experience for the price of a berber coffee or two and some memorable photos too.

 

Having a local guide can give you openings; as a good guide can talk to people and break the ice for you giving some great opportunities.

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