Chile - Torres del Paine - Physical limitations

[klix]

I'll be going to Santiago, Chile on business (probably mid to late March), and

after finishing up, will have a week to explore (just me and my wife), before

coming home.

 

I'd like to see the Patagonia region, and specifically, Torres del Paine;

however, just about every article or review of Torres del Paine inevitably

involves hiking, mountaineering and/or trekking.

 

Due to a partial physical disability, my hiking/trekking abilities are severely

limited (I can hike a short distance before needing rest, but it HAS TO BE on

EVEN terrain).

 

So, my question is: given that I would probably only be comfortable being 1/4

or even 1/2 mile from a vehicle, would it still be worth it to visit Torres del

Paine? I only plan to bring relatively lightweight photo gear.

 

This won't be my only trip to Chile on business, but I don't know when the next

one will be, nor do I know if I'll have some free time next tme around.

 

 

TIA

 

KL

[w.smith]

Hi TIA/KL,

 

in one week you won't be driving from Santiago to Torres del Paine and back, TIA/KL.

Nobody does. In Chile distances are vast. And roads are non-existent. Dirt-tracks is what

you get. That little return trip would take you 2 months with a very capable S.U.V.

 

And suppose you DO get to Torres del Paine. That's one of the remotest regions on earth!

It's in the high Andes! "Even terrain"? Not in a 1,000 miles around. And you'd probably

suffocate: there's not much oxygen at 2/3/4 miles altitude! You couldn't walk 10 steps!

 

It is a very hostile environment for humans. I submit you don't want to go there, sir.

 

I'm afraid most mortals will have to visit Torres del Paine per armchair/internet and TV.

[robyn_minkler]

With all due respect, I think you are exaggerating W. Smith, You're right, Torres del Paine

is NOT in the high Andes, so the OP will not suffocate.

 

Furthermore, it takes something like 36 hours to drive from santiago to Torres del Paine,

provided you cross over the andes before the roads get rough/non-existant on the

Chilean side. If KL IX wants to see Torres del Paine, it's possible, but it would be a lot of

driving.

 

Hiking in Torres del Paine is pretty rugged, but there is a service that can take you into the

park by boat. I'm not sure I would consider it worth the trouble, given the the terrain is

very rugged and I don't think hiking much past the hostel that the boat goes to would be

an option.

 

If other things are taking you to southern Chile, I think you might get something out of

Torres, but if you're traveling all the way from Santiago just for the view - It'd be like

driving from Canada to Mexico just for one vista.

 

Oh, I should mention that I was there before the fires, and I don't know if the hostel is still

even there.

 

-Robyn

[w.smith]

Not high Andes, Robyn? So what do you call this? Those are 4 mile peaks! And NO

infrastructure! Going there is not an option for westerners not in their physical prime.

 

I guess Valparaiso - 200 miles along the only main road in Chile - is a more attainable

goal for you TIA/KL.<div></div>

[robyn_minkler]

I didn't imagine that the OP would be climbing to the summit. The land around the cluster of

mountains of which the Torres are part is much less rugged - the spot where the photo you

posted was taken from could very well be auto accessible.

 

But sure, I agree, Torres del Paine is probably too far.

[w.smith]

The photo was taken from across the lake. That lake is the lowest point for hundreds of

square miles around. That lake is at TWO MILES altitude! (about the height of the highest

summits in the Rockies; the Andes are TWICE that high!). Ever stayed at 2 miles altitude for

any length of time? Every 5 steps walking makes you pant heavily. Your whole body aches.

Because your whole body is slowly dying from oxygen starvation.

 

Sensible people don't go there.

[klix]

Smith - I wasn't planning to drive to Torres del Paine, and HOW I GET THERE is NOT the topic at hand. Let's stay focused.

 

Not that it's relevant, but I will be flying from Santiago to Punto Arenas; there, our lodge (likely Lago Grey Lodge) will pick us up and take us to Punto Natales, then to Torres del Paine NP. Within the NP, I have access to a van to take us around the park.

 

So, again, staying on topic, ONCE I GET TO THE NP, will getting around by staying near the road afford me some vistas, or is it just not worth it, given my situation?

 

KL

[forrest_andrew]

Torres del Paine is certainly not the high Andes. In fact, one of the advantages of the park are the lower elevations which eliminate the risk of altitude sickness. A brief on-line search didn't reveal exact elevations, but the highest peaks are about 3000m or less than 2 miles. Most of the surrounding areas, from which stunning views can be had, are much lower. Altitude is not a problem. The Torres massif is truly stunning, and views can be had from many areas around its base. The Cuernos are visible from many areas of the park, including many roadsides and flat lakeshores. There are also comfortable lodgings within the park. I highly recommend you visit this area. I've been there once, and will be sure to return.

 

All the best - enjoy,

Andrew Forrest

[thom_hogan]

It sometimes amazes me at the level of inaccuracy that appears on the Internet sometimes.

 

Let's start with height. The highest peaks I can find in the park register at 2400m (~7500') on my map. Further up Patagonia, at Fitz Roy, you get to 3405m (~10,000). But the reason why those pictures look so dramatic is that these are huge uplifts above you, much like looking at Half Dome from the floor of Yosemite Valley (which also isn't at 10,000' ;~). Indeed, more dramatic, since there is sometimes as much as 5000' of mountain above you. Torres del Paine isn't even 60km from Puerto Natales, which is an ocean port (e.g. sea level). As with Alaska, the glaciers extend pretty much down to the ocean at the tip of the Cordillera de Los Andes. (I'd also like to point out that you don't suffocate at 10,000', but you're almost 10,000' below that taking the picture in question).

 

And that picture in question was taken along the road somewhere near Hotel Pehoe. Get out of the car, walk to the edge of the road, take the picture. Similar situation at Lago Grey. And there are short (though not flat) hikes to the waterfalls in the park, and boat rides across Lago Grey to the glacier. However, the feature the park was named after (the Towers), is not easily photographed from the roads and involves a long and difficult hike up to the glacial lake at the foot of the Towers.

 

As to how to get to Torres from Santiago: plane, then car. Anything else involves way too much driving (and you'll be driving to Argentina to get back to Chile). Fly to Punta Arenas and then drive up the peninsula to the park. My map says ~280km (~180 miles) from Punta Arenas to the point where the photo was taken. That sounds about right--I remember it as a little over three hours (most of it is paved once out of the park). There are quite a few bus tours to the park, as well.

 

As to why every article involves hiking, climbing, or trekking. Well, Torres used to have one of the world's finest, remote trekking loops. But Torres isn't so remote any more. It's fast become similar to Yosemite Valley in that it has built-up infrastructure, encourages visit by auto, and is getting more and more crowded every year. But the Towers remain a challenging climbing destination, the trekking loop is still there, though with much less solitude on about half of it, and for those that are interested, there are plenty of hiking trails to get away from the crowds.

 

Thom Hogan

www.bythom.com

[jlineen]

This park is situated in the tail end of the andes, well away from the sustained high altitude plateau of peru/bolivia. The drama of these steep peaks is that they arise from only a few 100m sea level at most. A flight from santiago to punta arenas could make it within your reach. Jeep tours to the 'main sights' are available from puerto natales( about 2 hours of paved road away north of punta arenas, good transport links evene in off season, may be difficult in extreme weather.), which give a flavour of the area. Short walks are possible. The refugios were closed when I was there, so real trekking was off limits. I still enjoyed the trip immensely.As for photo opportunities, many are to be had from the roadside. (see www.davidnoton.com for an example). My major concern would be the weather- you might make the trip and see nothing at all due to low cloud. High winds can make even the briefest walk a struggle. I went in mid winter, and was treated to clear skies, and mild temperatures; unpredictability is the main thing to expect!. Accomodation is available within the park itself, though limited in the off seaason and over subscribed in the high season.

If you really want to visit this magnificent location bite the bullet, take the risk and book that flight. You will not experience the park to the full without a trek into the real wilderness, but to me it was worth the diversion.

[jlineen]

Sorry didn't see your planned itinerary until now, KL IX. Too busy hoping you weren't put off by certain inaccuracies in some of the posts. Lots of photogenic vistas from the road side. I didn''t get any good photos, but enjoyed the experience anyway. Staying in the park is ideal, as you have a better chance of capturing sopme really dramatic lighting conditions ( the positive side of the unpredictable weather). Do look at david noton's shots of this area- one is directly across lago grey. The 'iconic' shot of the torres themselves does require a steepish trek over rough terrain and would be too much. You can also get some wildlife shots- camelids and condors are pretty abundant.

[bob_champoux]

I love threads like these. Very entertaining!

 

Having been there, it's fantastic with wonderful photo ops from the roads which is where the above photo was taken from. Elevation/breathing issues are not a concern unless maybe you're a heavy smoker.

 

Staying at Lago Grey is a great place to be! I was there mid-winter also (June). So, I can't speak for what it looks like next month but hopefully, you can experience icebergs floating around the lake. It's a walk but it's mostly level with just a short, steep section to get from the car park down to the shore. It's more level but a longer walk from the hotel...

 

As the weather was iffy in mid-winter, I limited the amount of hiking and was totally content photographing from the road. Most places, you can just pull over, and with little physical effort wander and click away. It's very photogenic aside from the typical mountain landscape stuff.

 

I have to digress and relate my most over the top wildlife experience, that I never expect to have happen again: I was photographing in the park(from the road) one evening and had a puma walk down the road towards me, hop over the guard rail to circumvent me, stop, look at me and then hop back on the road to walk over one of the wooden bridges that we were adjacent to. There are only 500 of these rare animals in the park and all the photos of them you'll see at the ranger's station, etc. were taken from far away and are blurry. I couldn't believe that when the puma stopped, it was but 6 meters from me. It was so quiet that evening, that I could hear its pads hit the wooden deck as it crossed the bridge. Just incredible.. Did I get a photo? No. I had a telephoto on the camera and the cat was just too close... The lens couldn't focus that close....

 

Go and enjoy and scope it out this trip and then plan on going back with a photo project in mind.

 

Cheers,

[klix]

W. Smith's obviously got a bug up his a$$.

 

As for the rest, very thoughtful, insightful and all very encouraging... I think I'll just have to see Torres del Paine for myself.

 

Cheers!

 

KL

[jim_rosario]

I was there way before all the new developement and even then it was easy to get around. Just rent or hire a car from the nearest town. Late March the weather will be iffy but I had stretches of decent weather then but also snow which makes the roads difficult for a few days. I recommend flying down on the Argentine side to Calafate and crossing to Chile weather permitting.

[evan_wortman]

I agree that W. Smith is severly exaggerating. I am actually leaving tomorrow for Santiago. I will be there 3 weeks and will be driving from Saniago to Torres Del Paine through Argetina. Although the distance is long, I don't think we'll suffocate upon arrival!

[michellemandat]

beautifull country

look at:

http://m.lemandat.free.fr

[gb_tb]

<p>KL IX, did you make it to Torres del Paine? Hope it was awesome!</p>