Not a question_ good news!

[peter_phillips2]

I had the chance to shoot a theatre production last week - the real thing, no dress rehearsal, sit in the front row ignore the shutters. I was backstage beside the Stage Manager's desk and had access to the first gantry level. I chose the M3 because of the silent shutter (moody play, lots of poignant silences) and tried Kodak's TMZp3200 B&W film. Great results, even shooting straight into some floods on the other side of the stage. Plenty of "oooh" responses from the cast and plenty of reprints. Since I couldn't see the light meter I guessed the lighting changes after the pre-show readings and used my Elmar 90 and Elmarit 135 throughout the night. But I recommend the film. In spades.

Peter

[john_alfred_tropiano]

Peter

I enjoyed your "good news" piece. I use both the 90mm Elemarit M and

the 135mm Tele Elemar, but only very infrequently. I mostly use the

50mm Summicron and the 35mm Summaron. I have never used a film faster

that 400 ASA but will definitely try out the 3200ASA B+W you used. I

sometimes shoot photos in church and faster film would be beneficial.

[david_cunningham2]

Peter...

 

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I'm so glad to here someone else rave about the Elmarit 135. While I

use my 35/2 and 50/2 much more than the 135/2, for the situations

when I need the 135 it is tops.

 

<p>

 

You should give Delta 3200 a try. I find it to be much better than

the Kodak 3200. Tighter grain, better shadows and highlights. It is

really great if you shot at 1600 and develop for 3200. I sometimes

load my M6 with the 3200 rated at 1600 and carry a 1 stop and 2 stop

ND filter with me to slap on the lens if I'm shootong in bright

light. Works great.

[richard palmer]

I personally have found Tmax3200 err, well err CRAP, I actually quite

like it if there is lots of light it is surprisingly small grained,

but in low light with wide apertures I think it sux: huge grain size

apparently with very little contrast, I need to print at grade 5 and

it is still 'grey'. Delta 3200 is a bit better, but for me Fuji

neopan 1600 pushed 1 stop or as is. I always get more punchy

printable negs in very low light conditions. It may be that it is

just more tolerant of my poor exposures.......

[inigo_uriz]

Thanks for the information David, I will try Ilford Delta 3200 next

time. Sometimes the Kodak TMZ 32000 doesn´t works as good as I need.

With a bright light it it doesn´t responses very well

[jeff_schraeder1]

Richard,

I too found p3200 to be very grainy at EI's of 1600 and above. I have

recently shot some at an EI of 1000 which I think is the designed ASA

rating of the film. I like the results. Very good shadow details and

the grain is acceptable at 8x10.

Jeff

[peter_phillips2]

Hey! Thank you all.

I began this bit because I'm really excited about the

lens/film/opportunity combination of last week. The detail you're

giving me, though, about other fast or uprateable film is more

valuable than a "look at me" piece.

Confession: I didn't process the 3200 film myself so I don't know what

was used. The printing was mine but I was really unsure about the

quality of the negs because of the exposure problems I mentioned.

Keep talking. Especially about high speed B&W film/developer/time

combinations.

Peter

[gerald_pisarzowski1]

Hi Peter:

 

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I've used both he Delta and the T-Max 3200 films in my Leica. Most of

the images are of the midways and street scenes at night. I meter

with a Luna Pro and shoot mostly with a 28mm lens. I find both films

quite good but tend to favour the T-Max 3200.

 

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I rate the film at 3200 and process it in Pyro PMK for 18 minutes at

about 72 degrees F. The film is presoaked for 3 minutes in a dilute

solution (1/2 teaspoon per litre of water) of sodium metaborate.

After the developer I use a plain water stop for about 1 minute and a

non-hardening fixer. After the fixer the film is put directly back

into the spent developer for about 2 minutes and then washed for about

20 minutes to encourage staining.

 

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The negatives have good shadow and highlight detail. While one

expects some grain with fast film, the Pyro seems to minimize this

problem, allowing me to make exhibition quality prints up to 11 x 14

without much difficulty.

 

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If you are interested in learning more about Pyro PMK Gord Hutchings

has an excellent book on the topic. Be

[gail_hammer1]

I love T-max 3200 and use it and T-Max 400 often. I rate the T-Max 3200 at 1600 and use the T-max

developer. I have used both films when shooting candid wedding pics and it always performs well. I don't

find it excessively grainy at all.

 

<p>

 

Gail Hammer

[dave_todaro1]

Gail: I assume you process the film at 3200?