Loading a IIIa in the Dark (Infrared Film)

[william_kornrich]

Any hints on how to load infrared film (and trim the leader to appropriate

size) in a IIIa in the dark?

[ken_kartes]

Practice with one roll in the light, then do it with your eyes closed, then practice in the dark.

[aaron_benner]

William - I can't recall where I read this (I didn't invent it), and not sure if it would be easier for you or not (I think it would), but an alternative to trimming the leader is to remove the lens at the time of film loading, set the shutter to stay open (T on my old III), and then after inserting the film from the botom, from the front through the open shutter curtain use your fingers to help guide the film superiorly into the body. I load my III like this and find it easier than trimming the film. Good luck.

[Rob F.]

Nahhh, I would just go ahead and do it in the dark. You can trim the leader by feel. I use blunt-tip bandage scissors in the dark. You could cut a piece of tape to the proper length, tape it to the counter-top, and use it to measure the length to cut the leader to. Slip the leader end into the takeup spool. You know by now which way it goes. Film cassette goes in the left hand, with the spindle end up and the clip towards you. Takeup spool goes in the right hand, with the small spindle up. Stick the leader under the clip. Camera on the counter, upside down, lens to you. Slide both ends into the camera. All the way in. Release the shutter, wind the knob while feeling the feed spool to see if it is turning. When you have advanced maybe two or three frames and the feed end is rotating, put the baseplate on. Fini.

[Troll]

Why do you want to do this in the dark?

[ken_kartes]

Jeez Bill don't spoil the fun of the question with logic!

[alex_lofquist]

You don't have to do it in the dark, just keep your eyes closed!

[Rob F.]

Yeah, why <i>do</i> you have to do it in the dark, anyhow? There can be just as much IR in the dark as in the light, and you wouldn't see it. That's why they call it infrared. I wondered about this, but assumed there must be some reason why you have to do it in the dark. But is there?

[michaelging]

There are a lot of fun things to do in the dark,loading IR film is just one of them.Kodak IR film is sensitive to light as well as infared, so you need to load it in the dark. I was loading IR film in a camera in a closet in a Rented Villa in Italy when the maid opened the door to get something out of the closet. It took a lot , I mean a lot of explaining as to why I was in the closet,and made her scream.

[jtk]

While it may seem appropriate to lubricate in advance, I think it'd make more sense to shave thoroughly.

[Uhooru]

Yeah fumbling in dark cool, Infared has to be TOTAL darkness, any light at all will kill the film, make sure there is no light at all in the room. It doesn't just get the exposed part,it actully somehow moves into the film.

[michaelging]

You can load Konica IR film in subdued light, I have done it under a coat without it being fogged.

[willscarlett]

anyone know if you have to load Rollei IR film in total darkness or will subdued light work?

[william_kornrich]

I've loaded Rollei IR film in subdued light with success---however I did fog part of a roll when I removed it from the camera outside (cloudy weather). If the prints are one of a kind or critical---I'd use much care loading and unloading the film in as close to darkness as you can get.....

[ron_breeze2]

William,

Buy yourself a dark bag and use it to load your IR film. It's a lot easier and you can do it in

daylight. I also use the method of removing the lens and setting the camera on "T" that

way the shutter is out of the way and you can feel the film to guide it. Practice in a dark

bag and watch a movie while you load your IR film.

[runkel]

I believe the Kodak IR films do not have an anti-halation layer and that, therefore, light can potentially be "piped" into the cartridge and ruin unexposed film. The Konica IR film supposedly does/did have an anti-halation layer.

 

If you are in a completely dark, closed room it seems unlikely there will be much infrared present.

 

Some suggest that a camera with a cloth shutter may not be appropriate for IR photography. Until you are confident that your shutter is opaque to infrared, I would suggest keeping a lens cap in place between exposures.

[Uhooru]

I used the HIE Kodak in a M6 and it was fine, but the first time I loaded in my bathroom and there was a little light around the window and door crack, just smidge and it fogged. Second time I used a improvised dark bag and that worked great. The dark bag is a good suggestion.

[anthony_brookes5]

I have done this several times.

1. Wrap the leader around the spool till it just overlaps the film exiting from the spool slot.

2. From where the film now leaves the spool slot, cut at half height from the open end of the film back to the spool.

3. Curving your cut downwards - I use small scissors - cut to the BOTTOM of the film.

4. BEFORE STARTING THE FINAL CUT DOWNWARDS MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE SPOOL TOP is at the TOP

 

Good luck

[len_smith]

For trimming the leader in the dark, why not use an ABLON?

 

There are also cheap copies of the ABLON available on "that auction site" at very reasonable prices. I have one and it works well, although I admit that I only ever use it with the lights on. <g>

[anthony_brookes5]

A Ablon will do, but you need to be certain that it is fitted correctly.

[will_wright1]

practice, practice, practice

[lee_shively]

I've loaded/unloaded 120 Maco infrared and 35mm Ilford SFX 200 film in daylight before--well, in the shadows anyway. There is always a little fogging of the 120 film edges but never in the image area. The only Kodak infrared I've shot was the E6 film and I loaded/unloaded it in subdued light only with no problems.

[christopher_a._junker1]

I've done it in a closet, total dark, using a Leitz casette and ABLON trimmer for both the spool and leader ends. For 36 exposures, I used a yard stick, but I can't remember at what length I put in the notch so I knew how much to pull from the bulk spool. The Leitz casettes are nice to use as there is no chance of scratching the emulsion and they are made to be used over and over. The comment to practice in the dark is good advice. My closet worked(room was dark too), but I made sure by packing a towel under the closet door. To make sure it really is dark, wait in the darkened space until your eyes accomodate to the absence of light. You'll be able to see any white light leaks after 5 minutes.