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tripod selection/use for the macro world


arlon

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Are there any tips or suggestions on tripods for the macro world? I just got a

Dine 105mm lens and it's possibilities have me thinking a decent tripod/monopod

might be in order. Any tips, suggestions on the subject would be appreciated.

Primary interest is outdoor macros, bugs and such. Thanks, Arlon

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The Gitzos are nice but quite expensive. A more affordable alternative would be the Bogen/Manfrotto 3021 family of tripod legs, preferably one of the "pro" models, which enables you to mount the column horizontally.

 

The choice of tripod head is more of a personal decision. Some people like the freedom of a ball-head, while others like the precision of a pan/tilt head. Any of the Manfrotto heads are going to be rugged and sturdy, so again it's really a matter of personal taste.

 

As Mark mentioned, a focusing rail is also a very nice feature -- it can make your life considerably easier.

 

As a final note, try to avoid tripods by Slik and Sunpak. They tend to be poorly made, prone to vibration, and will not sufficiently support the weight of a full macro setup.

 

Good luck with whatever you choose!

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Check this excellent Manfrotto 3021BPRO tripod for $153.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Bogen-Manfrotto-3021BPRO-Professional-Tripod-without/dp/B00006I52Z/sr=8-2/qid=1168901040/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2/002-9132343-1515201?ie=UTF8&s=electronics

 

Myself, I bought the following GITZO G2220 Explorer (I thought it was better than Manfrotto 3021BPRO) and ... after one week of using it one of the srews broke. I sent it to Bohen for repair and received it back after TWO MONTHS AND SEVEN DAYS. When I called them thay said thay were waiting for the screw from Gitzo:

 

http://www.amazon.com/GITZO-G2220-Explorer-Camera-Tripod/dp/B00006I59Z/sr=1-1/qid=1168901305/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-9132343-1515201?ie=UTF8&s=electronics

 

Even if Gitzo is bought by Manfrotto now, I would go with the original Manfrotto 3021BPRO tripod, if I would have to choose again.

 

Marek

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I was looking on ebay at the prices of the 3021's (seems they almost have a cult following) and found one lightly used with a head for $100. Head is a video head but then again I'm one heck of a "southern engineer". I will see how that turns out. If nothing else, it will make a great stand for some remote flashes I've been using. Price is more in line with my current level of interest and funding even if I have to buy another head.

 

I've also been using the dine with a pn-1 extension tube that has a collar..

Arlon

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The Gitzo explorer G2220 is one of the best tripods for macro and very affordable too.

 

Using Kiron 105 with PN-11 s fine but only when working beyond 1:1 or working at 1:2 or closer on lens for increased working distance but higher magnification than that set on lens. Most macro lenses (except unit focusing ones like 105/4 Micro) are not optimized for far distances so PN-11 won't get the best out of them for relatively less combined magnifications.

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I've grown pretty fond of old extension tubes. The PN-1 (52.5mm) and an old 135mm "E" lens have taken some of my best pictures so far. I hope I can get the new Dine lens to do as well or better. Tripod should help. Anyone use a monopod for field work with a macro lens?
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I recommend the Gitzo G 2220. It is made of aluminum and is the most versatile tripod I kown of for macro work. It is what I would buy today. I use a Bogen/manfrotto all metal 3221 tripod modified to go all the way to the ground. It is very similar to the 3021 model. If you go the Bogen route, stick to the all metal ones. I think they are better built than the carbon fiber ones. The weak link on the new ones can be the leg locks that I think are very flimsy compared to the ones on my older 3221.

 

I do not know your lens. For my Nikon 105, I mate it with my PN-11 tube so I have a tripod mount for the lens. I use a Kirk ball head.

 

Joe Smith

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"I hope I can get the new Dine lens to do as well or better. "

 

A lens will perform within it's optical limitations regardless of the photographer's techniques. if the lens is optimized for close distances, focusing it far and then adding PN-11 to recover magnification (with the added advantages of better handling and increased working distance) is not going to yield optically superior results than the lens reaching the same magnification on it's own. Whether that difference is quality is detectable/acceptable varies from one individual to another.

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Things which will help you...

1). Tripod that gets low (like having no center column...)

2.) Ball head that is of adequate size.

3.) L-Bracket (pricey, but once you have one, you will sever one of your own limbs before going without)

4.) Speedlight with off-camera TTL cable and some form of diffusion.

 

Things to avoid...

1.) Tripods that make you invert anything to get low.

2.) Pan/tilt tripod heads.

3.) Geared focusing rails (sorry, everyone, only good for copy work. I shoot small creatures and know of what I speak...).

 

And the rest is just you doin' it. Good luck and welcome to a fun new world.

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Another recommendation for the Gitzo G2220! By far the most versatile tripod I've ever seen.<p>

Concerning the head: While a pan & tilt head (or even a geared head) might be slightly easier to position precisely than a ballhead (at least if you do not buy a (very) high quality one), the latter might be more suitable for other types of photography you intend to do as well... think about that as well. <br>

If you look for a pan & tilt, consider one that does not have these long handles on all axes. While they make adjustments easier, they very easily get into the way when you are working close to the ground or close to your object.<p>

Last but not least (as said by others), a focusing rail is more or less a must! Look for one that does not have a dead-zone (meaning: if you change between forward/backward it should not lag, and in general it should not budge without turning the geared wheel), as this may cause some frustration when trying to find the exact focus.<br>

I found the combination of 2 focusing rails to be very practical: one for focusing and the other to move the whole setup left/right as this is otherwise only possible by adjusting or moving the tripod (which is hard to do in tiny increments). <p>

Have fun!

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Thanks for the great info. What IS an "L" bracket?

 

I've only been playing at this for a few months and haven't left the yard yet or really spent any money until I got a used dine lens for $200 and now a $100 tripod and that's probably just opening the door.

 

Some of my first macro efforts are in a pbase gallery, just search my name if interested. All take all the help I can get... Arlon

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