Using the Nikon SB-800 in wireless mode

[steve_silver]

I recently purchased a Nikon SB-800 speedlight to use primarily with my D200. I

would like to use the speedlight off camera in wireless mode without the

built-in speedlight on the D200 firing. I have put the D200 flash system in

commander mode and have set the built-in flash mode at "--", and have set the

SB-800 on remote mode; however, both the SB-800 and built-in flash are still

firing. Is there any way to get only the SB-800 to fire and not the built-in

flash when in wireless mode?

 

Thanks,

Steve

[gaius1]

Err, no. CLS communicates using the pre-flash.

[rffffffff]

to clarify the previous response, it seems like there is always a little pre-flash that mixes in, but its a relatively small amount...

 

You have the right setting.

 

You can turn up the off camera flash and close your aperture a bit to minimize the on camera effect, or If you really have to kill all of the preflash light you can try placing a black card between the camera and the subject but not between the camera and the off camera flash, if that makes sense. You can bounce the CLS signals pretty well in general.

[chris_vincent2]

Yes. Use the FV lock function as described in the manual.

 

There will be a pre-flash the first time you depress the button so the flash value can be stored. You can then shoot without the preflashes until you press the FUNC button. This works with remote flashes by using the custom function described in the manual (pages 81/82 in my copy)

[primeimages]

There is no conceivable way of firing your remote SB800 without firing also your built-in flash. One option is to simply buy an SC-28 off camera flash cord to fire your SB800. They're about $55.

 

Another option is to get their SU-800 Commander but that's going to cost you $200++.

 

Your 3rd option is getting another SB800, use it as your commander without firing it, and trigger your remote SB800. Then again, it's going to cost you another $300+.

 

Which brings us back to Option #1 if cost is a major factor.

[rffffffff]

I'll clarify a little more, but also ask a question.... there are ways to make the on camera flash not contribute to the exposure, but there isnt any way to make it not fire at all...

 

are you looking to not have it fire at all (for the sake of the model or environment) or are you looking for it not not contribute to the exposure for the purpose of the photograph?

[titospna]

Try this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&Q=&is=REG&O=productlist&sku=410445

 

Believe Lumiquest has also come out with a screen that works as a type of softbox.

 

I recommend the SU-800, but that is a costly choice, although it gives you added possibilities beyond what you already have.

[steve_silver]

Thanks very much for all your helpful input.

 

I have the SC-28 and have used it quite a bit, but since the SB-800 has remote function, I would like to try using that instead of hooking up a wire, getting the wire tangled, etc. -- or just being able to put the flash a few meters away out of the wire's reach.

 

I'm looking to eliminate any exposure from the build-in flash coming into the image. I also think it would be a bit annoying for the subject depending on the situation if two flashes were continually going off, but this is a secondary concern.

 

I'm curious though as to why the built-in flash needs to go off in the first place if the SB-200 is controlled by a radio signal...

 

Thanks,

Steve

[maxz]

Where have you heard that the SB-R200 (forgot the "R"?) is controlled by radio? I believe this to be false, since if it WAS true the SB-800 would be unable to control them. The SB-800 has no radio transmitter.

 

The SU-800 is a "flash" that emits light in the 800-1000 nanometer range, that is near infrared, according to the information found on nikondigital.com.

 

The pre-flashes from the built-in flash in commander mode is needed for two reasons, first to tell the remote unit to emit a pre-flash so that the camera can meter the light, then to tell the remote unit what power it should set to for the main flash. These pre-flashes should come before the shutter opens according to Nikon. In a swedish photographyforum people has taken images of themselves in a mirror showing that the on-camera flash shows. But when others have tried this with "real" subjects, ie photographing a glass sphere, there is no specular highlight from the built-in flash and only the remote flash unit lights the subject. I am not sure how to interpret these tests.

 

In an older swedish Nikon catalog there was a diagram that showed how the wireless system works in CLS. I haven't been able to find a PDF-version of that or the english language catalog so I took the liberty to recreate the diagram, attached below. I find that the pre-flashes when going wireless introduces a delay, not much but enough that some subjects react to it, thus turning away thinking the picture was taken or blinking. Because of this I prefer using a TTL-cable. YMMV.