Photographing birds in flight using Nikon D80

[tobys bits]

Hi,

 

I picked up my D80 a few weeks ago and I've been experimenting with

photographing different subjects. Today I was trying to capture seagulls (I

think?) in flight. I found the kit lens I was using (Nikon 18-70mm) was

struggling to focus and stay focused on the birds as they flew overhead.

 

I managed to get one or two reasonable(ish) shots - See attached. I like the

composition of this one.

 

I'm sure I would benefit from using a telephoto zoom lens, but I haven't

invested in one of those yet (I'm considering Sigma 70-300 F4-5.6 APO).

 

Apart from the choice of focal length, how can I maximise my chances of

capturing some pleasing shots? I've read through the different AF modes on the

camera once but I'm still a little confused.... Is there a suitable choice for

this kind of application?

 

Any help or advice you could give would be greatly apreciated.

 

Cheers,

Toby<div></div>

[joseph_smith3]

I am not familiar with the features or capabilities of the D 80. However, do a search of this site for your topic and you ought to find lots of information. On google, enter Digital Darrell nikon settings for the d2x or d 200. He has extensive recommendations for various situations. Only you can determine if they will work on the d 80.

 

Having done flights shots myself, I can tell you I do not try they without a 300mm lens. I short focal length lens can only lock onto a group of birds, not a single bird. For group shots, normal settings might even be better than special settings.

 

Joe Smith

[rafikrkamel]

Hi toby,

First i would recomment a tele photo like 300mm, but it has to be something that focuses internally (like the 18-70 u have).

For focusing mode, here is what i do with my D70s:

1. AF-c Which tracks

2. Pick the center focus area as this is usually the only cross type sensor on board and usually the strongest among all the af sensors.

3. I also pick something called dynamic area, which means if the subject leaves the center focus, the af system would still detect it somehow from other inactive sensors.

 

i crop afterwards coz i always use the center af sensor for 2 reasons:

center sensor is strongest plus the center of the lens s usually the sharpest in quality unless u r shooting with a 4-5K telephoto.

hope that helps,

Rafik

[juan_parm_nides]

The easiest way to photography flying birds is setting your D80 to sports mode. And you need a lens with fast autofocus and the Sigma is not fast enough, but could be useful due to 300mm zoom. Cheers.

[tobys bits]

Thank you all for the valuable information. Rafik your comments are especially useful. I hope to invest in a 300mm lens in the near future, however I think I'll have to give my wife a little while to get used to the idea :->

[tobys bits]

Juan,

 

Thanks for the response. Why do you say the Sigma isn't fast enough? Do you mean the autofocus or the aperture?

 

Thanks again,

Toby

[Dieter Schaefer]

Toby,

 

a) a telephoto or telephoto zoom is a must; if you can afford it get the highest f-stop lens you can find. The Sigma you are considering will have f/5.6 at the 300mm setting, which is not optimum any more for fast AF. b) use AF-C, which will give you dynamic tracking. c) check Moose Peterson's website, he gives great tips on how to shoot birds. When I recall correctly, you should start with the sensor that is closest to from where the bird approaches. I usually start with the center sensor, which is indeed the only cross sensor. d) 300mm is probably the minimum focal length although seagulls are usually close enough (i.e. fly low enough) for a decent shot with 200mm. The choice you make regarding the lens is determined by how serious you are going to be with bird photography. I have a 300mm AF-S with 1.4 and 1.7x; the prime alone provides fast enough AF, with either extender attached, I miss more shots because the AF is slowing down. The next step up would be 300f/2.8 but now we are talking serious money. My Nikon 75-300 is slower than the 300 prime and hence more shots were missed. Another way is to turn AF off and use good old trap focusing techniques. One more thing, you will crop the shot afterwards anyway, so don't worry too much about composition while shooting.

[rafikrkamel]

With all due respect Juan,

"The easiest way to photography flying birds is setting your D80 to sports mode" i would not go for that mode simply because you dont control the aperture in that mode (as far as i remember). So that way u ll shoot wide open and the shots will come out very soft because the lenses we are talking about here give very soft results wide open.

I would rather stop it one notch down and go for a higher iso.

hope that helps,

thanks for your time

Rafik

[joseph_smith3]

Here is the link to digital darrell and the d 200 settings. Read all of the parts: http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/nikon_articles/body/d200_multi-cam1000_af/index.html

 

I hope some of it applies to the d 80. Joe Smith

[jeff h.]

I can answer this question authoritatively, albeit with little authority! I use a D80 for flying

bird photography. If you check the archives in the Nature Forum here on photo.net, you'll

find a trove of information on birding lenses, with information and advice from some true

experts. The first (and most obvious) thing to do in bird photography is to get close

enough to the birds to be able to

photograph them with your particular lens. Even the 18-70 lens will work if the gulls are

feeding on a loaf of bread tossed a few feet away. Obviously, this tactic doesn't work for

most birds, so longer focal lengths are needed. Most birders will say that 300mm is the

starting point, and that you are best served with 500mm and 600mm lenses (and maybe

even a teleconverter). However, the long lenses and the necessary tripod and gimbal head

cost as much as a small car. I will limit my comments to the hand-held, entry-level

methods I've used

for wing shots with a D80: 500/8 mirror, 70-300/4-5.6D and the 300/4 ED. Each of these

lenses fall

in the price range of roughly $250-500 (KEH used prices, varying condition, etc.). The

500/8 mirror lens is the (much derided) way of getting long reach for little cash. You get a

limited focal length,

dim focusing (fixed f/8), slow shutter speeds (again, fixed f/8, more like f/9 in practice),

manual focus (with thin depths of field), no metering (except your mental "Sunny 16"

calculations and a constant checking of histograms), and bokeh that drives many people

(do)nuts. This pic is typical of in-flight bird pics taken with a 500/8 lens (target

acquisition and focusing are so hard you are often left with only an image of the bird's

behind):<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://

img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/SpeedySub/DSC_0025.jpg" border="0"

alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>

 

The 70/3004-5.6D overcomes most of these drawbacks with its versatile focal lengths,

better focusing, faster shutter speeds, AF, full metering in all modes, and decent bokeh.

The Nikkor 70-300 "D" lens has ED glass, so it is sharp and has excellent color rendition

(although it does get a little soft at the 300mm end). The most frustrating thing about the

70-300 is that it constantly "hunts" for the correct focus, slowly zooming back and forth

between close and infinity focus, trying to find the correct focus. I've obtained the best

results with this lens by manually focusing on birds in flight (most of the time, the proper

focus is at/near infinity, so it takes little effort). Keep in mind that at 300mm, the 70-300

is at f/5.6 (or f/8 if you are using a 1.4x teleconverter), so shutter speeds have to be a

little slow or a higher ISO used. This pic shows where the 70-300 really shines, when a

large bird slowly cruises by and even 300mm is too long:<a href="http://

photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/

v291/SpeedySub/DSC_0237.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image

Hosting"></a>

 

The 300/4ED IF (not AFS, refer back to my price guide) is perhaps the best of the three for

capturing birds in flight. You get a decent focal length for birding, outstanding optics, fast

focusing, and full metering. At f/4, you can use a fast shutter speed and lower ISO. Best of

all, the Nikkor 300/4ED lens has a focus limiting switch that allows you to limit how far

the lens will focus; you can set the lens to only focus between a certain range, which

dramatically speeds up the focus speed and limits the amount of hunting the lens does.

This pic shows the 300/4ED's ability to effortlessly capture a bird in flight:<a

href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://

img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/SpeedySub/DSC_0125.jpg" border="0"

alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>

 

So, to summarize, the 500/8 is frustratingly futile to use on flying birds, the

70-300/4-5.6D is capable (and is an excellent and versatile lens on its own for non-

birding uses, like kid's sports), and the 300/4ED lens is the best of the three for "budget"

birding.

[tobys bits]

Thanks again to everyone for their responses.

 

Jeff - That's brilliant, just the sort of info I was looking for. The prime lens is pretty hefty isn't it? I guess it needs to be that big to accommodate the huge glass element.

 

I'm not really serious about photographing birds - It's just one of the many subjects I would like to capture now I have my wonderful new DLSR. As such I want to have the most versatile lenses I can, so I think the 70-300mm will give me the most flexibility at an affordable price.

 

Thanks again for your input - It's very kind of you to take the time to respond.

 

Cheers,

Toby

[aaron l]

The 300mm range is the bare entry point to capture birds. They become very small in camera viewfinders for some reason. I was out shooting geese with my 80-400mm and was at 400mm the whole time. I'd trade for a 300mm 2.8 + TC but at least that. A 70-300 will work but you have to have close and big birds. Put your camera on AF-C and shoot away.

[eddie_meeks]

When shooting birds in flight...the only correct way is to manual focus...just remember that when they are moving away, which way to turn your focus and I can tell you...you will get far better results...a little practist of focusing moving objects will help. I photograph for the SCPGA and prefocus is one way to combat it...let the subject move into your depth of field. Plus..use your f22 to its advantage too....good luck.

[mark_chappell]

<I>When shooting birds in flight...the only correct way is to manual focus.</i><P>

 

I disagree. Strongly. A <B>good</b> autofocus system -- both camera and lens -- will

give a far higher proportion of sharp images than an MF lens in the vast majority of

circumstanses. I've tried both for many years so I can speak from a lot of experience in

photographing <A HREF="http://faculty.ucr.edu/~chappell/INW/flyingindex.html">flying

birds</a>.<P>

 

In generall, If you want to get the best possible 'bird lens' on a budget, avoid zooms, and

seek out lenses with internal focus motors (AF-S for Nikon, HSM for Sigma). Other

responders have recommended 300 mm/4 AF lenses and IMO those are excellent

suggestions -- if the AF motor is good. You asked about AF modes; what you want to

use is continuous focus (not 'one-shot' or the like), and you probably want to use the

focus limiter on the lens, if one is available. Maintaining accurate focus will be easier for

birds passing in front of you from right to left (or vice versa) than a bird coming directly

towards you. Be sure to pre-focus when waiting for a bird to approach -- set the lens to

roughly the distance at which you want to start shooting, so that it will acquire focus as

fast as possible. <P>

 

Finally, if at all possible, try to get your picture when the bird is still approaching you, not

after it has passed and is flying away. It's a matter of personal taste, but for me, looking

at the rear end of a bird is less appealing than looking at the front. Also, it's usually good

to have a clear view of the eye when photographing animals, and that's difficult for a bird

flying away from you.<P>

 

A few recent examples:<P><center>

 

whimbrel<BR>

<img src="http://faculty.ucr.edu/~chappell/INW//birds2/whimbrelfly1.jpg"><P>

 

female redhead<BR>

<img src="http://faculty.ucr.edu/~chappell/INW/birds1/redheadfly4.jpg"><P>

 

mallard<BR>

<img src="http://faculty.ucr.edu/~chappell/INW/birds1/mallard6.jpg"><P>

 

black-bellied plover<BR>

<img src="http://faculty.ucr.edu/~chappell/INW/birds2/BBplover11.jpg">

 

</center>

[eric_arnold]

the 70-300 ed is a capable lens, the $500 vr version is supposed to be even better. you can get good results with the cheaper g lens, even. for tracking birds, af-s and a fast shutter speed are essential, but any lens with a fast af should do it. i tested out a cheap sigma 55-200 at lake merritt in oakland on some geese. the camera tracked the motion well, the af was fast, and i was able to handhold due to lightweight. i ended up returning the lens for the somewhat bulkier 70-300 ed, but the shots came out clear and sharp -- i even got the footprint trail as the bird took off from the water.