matt_friel Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 My lab keeps the whole roll together. what is the best cutter out there for medium format film. I may want to use a scanner someday on the film and have noticed that when I cut 35mm negs my nikon super coolscan 5000 really doesn't like that..I figure it would be the case for medium format negs as well. matto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_wilson2 Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 A nice pair of Fiskars scissors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 I use a small, cheap, guillotine cutter (abut 6x6 inches) on top of a light table. The film is always cut smooth and square, and it's easy to see and cut between frames (Hasselblad spacing is not all that consistent). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tad doxsee Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 I just use my wife's "good" scissors. :-) It's never been a problem scanning with my Epson 3200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randall ellis Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Here is a nice 35mm and 120 cutter. Mine has held up well, but a pair of sharp scisors will work well also. http://home.att.net/~sales3d/WFilmCutter.htm - Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob F. Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 I use a pair of inexpensive surgical scissors. They are small and thin, so that I can see to cut precisely between the frames. I cut over a light box, so I can see where I'm cutting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 With 35mm film, it's important to cut between sprocket holes. Otherwise, the film may jam in the strip feeder mechanism of a Coolscan. You will notice that the frames are always aligned so that a solid border lines up with the gap between frames - that's what the sprocket does inside the camera. It's pretty hard to consistently cut this way with scissors, and you only have one chance. I'm not into that kind of concentration. I'd rather be taking pictures (or billing customers), so I use a mechanical cutter described above. I've only been doing this for 50 years, you'd think I'd get the hang of it by now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuart_richardson Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 With medium format there is a lot of space between the frames (usually at least), more than enough for a good, sharp pair of scissors. I have only ever used a polaroid film cutter and it was not a great solution. The nice thing about scissors is that you eliminate the possibility of dust accumulation and scratches that you can get from a film cutter where you need to slide the film along a solid surface. If that surface has any dust or grit on it, it will either transfer onto the film or scratch it. With scissors you have no such problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rconey Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Whatever scissors I find. Scanning is no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 I cut the film while it is still sleeved. Even unsleeved, I have no problem scratching the film, given due diligence. An old Rollei TLR gives nice, wide even spaces - the film is metered with a toothed wheel, much like the sprocket in a 35mm camera. Hasselblad spacing seems to depend on the phase of the moon, even after a CLA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_yabrow1 Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 The lab I use returns the 120/220 roll sleeved. I have tried hand-holding the film and cutting, but it was hard to get even cuts in the center between frames (I've nearly ruined some frames by cutting too close to the image). A standard gillotine/lever cutter makes straight cuts, but it is tough to get enough light below the cutter to see exactly where you're going to cut. What I do now is hold the sleeved film up to a lightbox, make a small visible notch with a scissors in the sleeve in the right spot between the frames. Then I take the sleeved film with notches over to the paper cutter and it is simple to line up the notches with the cutter's edge and get perfect cuts every time. The backlit cutter mentioned earlier seems to be much more elegant and I may just buy it one of these days. But this "notch" method hasn't failed me yet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vkelman Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 I use slide cutter http://211.234.100.187/~matin/system2/mall.php?cat=011000000&query=view&no=97 which I bought on Ebay (new). It's much better than usinmg scissors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivsimler Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 I use the print cutter that I bought so I could trim down my printed photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert x Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 Can you not ask your lab to cut it for you ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_lee23 Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I am using a Alvin translucent cutting mat with a C-Thru triangle with a cutting edge and a good x-acto knife on top of a light box. I like to cut with the sleeve from the lab and this work out great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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