jira Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 <p>Days are really short and the only chance to do photography for me are nightcityscape. This is of course a technical challenge and I wonder what lense(s)from the FD lineup do the best job at handling those ugly street lights?</p><p>Recently I did a small test. I shot the same scene using the 35/2 and the 28-85/4zoom. You can see the results attached. Both were taken at 5,6.</p> Regards,Jiri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jira Posted November 24, 2006 Author Share Posted November 24, 2006 the other photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w.smith Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 Another lens will cost you a lot, but gain you very little, Jiri. Since your problem is contrast, you may want to consider HDRI, High Dynamic Range Imaging. You will need a tripod, though. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDRI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awahlster Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 Or simply capture photo's that do not have the street lights in them. you might also try a polarizer of course that would also lenghten your time. but it would help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trw Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 I like the 50/1.4 for night photography. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markus maurer Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 I would try to underexposure for 2 stops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregory_nicholson Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 Try shooting wide-open to minimize the star shaped highlights caused by the lens's diaphragm blades. Your 35 f/2 is very good at f/2. Other lower priced FD lenses (new mount) that I personally know of and are very good wide open include; 24 f/2, 28 f/2.8, 50 f/1.4, 50 f/3.5, 85 f/1.8, 100 f/2.8, 100 f/4, 135 f/2, 135 f/2.5, 200 f/4. Of course the L series lenses are designed to be excellent wide open such as the 24 f/1.4L, 50 f/1.2L, 85 f/1.2L and 300 f/2.8L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pvp Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 If it's the stars around the lights that are the problem, Gregory is right: the only solution to that is to shoot wide open. The stars are caused by diffraction where the aperture blades meet at an angle; as you stop down the aperture goes from round (usually) to a polygon determined by the number of blades in the aperture. The resulting stars will have twice as many rays as the blade count. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jira Posted November 28, 2006 Author Share Posted November 28, 2006 <p>Thanks for all the answers. I'll experiment with shooting wide open.</p> <p>One think that particularly stroke me was how pronounced the star effect of 35/2 was when compared to the zoom lens. Not only has it more rays but they are also _much_ longer. Is it because the prime lens has more blades?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregory_nicholson Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 My guess is; at f/5.6 the zoom is stopped down one f/stop, while the prime 35 is stopped down three stops. Stopped down one stop shows only a small fraction of the aperture blades. Stopped down three stops shows half the aperture blade. This may be more obvious and cause the highlights to be larger. Maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jira Posted December 10, 2006 Author Share Posted December 10, 2006 It makes sense, Gregory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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