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Fashion photography


jmaphotography

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I have a 1DmkII, 580 speedlite, 28-70L, 70-200L and I'll be shooting a runway

fashion show shortly. In the past I've shot at iso 400-800 in Tv mode around

125 without flash when lighting is adequate. I've found that when I shoot in

Av mode wide open images can often be underexposed. Shooting in Tv mode at 60-

125 usually produces better exposures. Is this the wrong way round? What I'd

like to know from the fashion gurus out there is, with the gear that I have is

there a couple of formulae that I can use based on Av or Tv priority,

with/without flash, and are diffusers any help e.g Lightsphere, Sto-fen etc?

This would help me

to set up quickly from a couple of start-options and then tweak as necessary.

Of course the main issue is to light up the models and freeze movement. Thanks

for your info.

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It sounds to me as though you are missing an understanding of how metering works. In constant lighting, bridal gowns will tend to underexpose, while black evening gowns will overexpose if you use Av or Tv modes as the metering will tend to try to make both grey. You are much better to use M mode metering off a neutral tone in the runway lighting. That way the camera won't get fooled by the colour of the dress. You are also best to use M mode with flash, although you will need to ride flash exposure compensation (dial it down for dark clothes, and up for light ones).

 

Your problems come if the lighting is pulsing, so you can't use a set exposure without flash. In those circumstances, flash really becomes essential, and you will need to take several shots to give a good chance of getting a nice background (or simply de-emphasize the background by using a wide aperture). When using flash, M mode is again probably preferable, since you really want to have control over aperture for depth of field reasons, and Av mode may give some rather slow shutter speeds that could lead to ghosting if the lighting is temporarily somewhat dark.

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I agree with mark with M mode rather than Tv or Av.

 

And it still depends on where you will be from the runway, and which lens will be used (considering that you're not going to switch lens all the way long).

 

Models tend to walk quite fast so you need some fast speed but you still need to control the background/depth of field so the best way to go is definitely M.

 

Keep your speed unchanged (raising ISO if needed) while tweaking aperture and/or flash compensation as explained by Mark.

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I would try not to lose the atmosphere created at the show. Typically the lighting the designers use is pretty bright, and you're right to shoot at around 400-800 Iso. But use manual to meter for the room, then add flash to freeze the model, but dial down the flash a little so that you don't blast out the existing light, about half or quarter power. That will work as good as diffusing the light and use less battery.

 

Remember you can always turn down the flash, but you can only turn it up so far when you diffuse it (ie cut the power of the light). If Tv mode works for you, it's not wrong. Photography isn't about doing it the way everyone else does it, but rather getting a good image. If it works, it works. Don't worry about if it's right if the image turns out because the final product is what matters in the end. A camera, aperture, shutter speed, flash, are all just tools to get an IMAGE. Let the image tell you if it's right.

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Hi John, diffusers like Lightsphere, Sto-fen, etc., provide very nice, very soft lighting. That

comes at a hefty price, though: it wastes 80% of the flash's power output! They're useful

only if you shoot with wide open aperture at very short distance (like within 3/4 feet!), so

you'll have only a very shallow DoF.

 

Better use a bounce card. How you can get a FREE bounce card? Look here: http://

www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNCmuExlHvM

 

Have fun.

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Thanks for the excellent info so far guys - I've taken it all on board. Does anyone prefer One Shot to Al Servo for freezing motion when models are walking straight at you down the runway? Would you 'crush' the shutter button without waiting for focus confirmation in One Shot, in case a momentary delay would knock the image out of focus? What's the proven technique?

Thanks for your wisdom and suggestions.

John

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Hi,

 

I've shot a fashion show a few weeks ago, I used my 1DMII with 28 1.8, that's it. I shot on Av and spot metered on the face - yes I know, the highlight on the face will make the background go dark, but that's exactly the result I was looking for.

 

Here are some examples - btw I shot at f.2.8 to 4.5 most of the time to get adequate depth of field on the model's face.

 

Regards,

 

Radu D.<div>00ItrS-33654784.JPG.5fd603a7df87df513f80cdfc848a3212.JPG</div>

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I reread your last post and concerning the focusing technique, I use the

* button (CF.4) and it is much easier to focus and shoot, you have virtually no shutter lag. The model usually stays put for a few seconds at the end of the walk, so you can snap a few without changing focus.

 

You could also use panning, it gives a cool effect.<div>00ItrZ-33655084.JPG.8172fe3ce0df25bcb236311909c47466.JPG</div>

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