jon_noble Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Hi I have bought a Yashica Electro (pre g-series) and i'm not sure i have thedreaded "pad of death." From what i have read it causes the shutter speeds to be very binary i.e bulb or1/500. So far, this is what my camera is doing. However, it does not make aclunk when i cock the shutter. Just makes a normal click. Theres a new battery in there and i've taken the top plate and no connectionsappeared to be loose/corroded through. Does this sound like the "pad of death" or have i missed something obvious? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_stobbs3 Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 I have a GSN. It clunks and works properly. But corrosion can be hard to see. If you have a battery check button and can remove its plate, do a continuity test from the contact in the battery cavity to the pad on the check board to make sure it's clean eenough. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_noble Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 You'd have to explain Charles what the check pad is. The light comes on when i press the battery test button. By a continuity test do you mean find the resistance between the battery contact and another point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_noble Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 checkpad = pad on the check board Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_naylor1 Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Hi, Jon I've trodden this path myself, with the acquisition a few years ago of a GSN. It too only worked in default mode at 1/500 sec, although there was an OK-looking battery in there. I had it checked out and the various connections cleaned, but it entailed the purchase of a new battery to get things properly "clunking" again. That damn multi-tiered battery cost about 20 bucks alone, so with hindsight maybe I should have stayed happy and ignorant using it battery-less at 1/500 sec. I mean, it's not as if I was going to have the GSN as a "user" - it was only going to be a one-film-only job, and then into the collecting cupboard to admire and collect dust. I suggest that if you're brutally honest with yourself, you consider whether it's worth $20 plus to find out if it really does work OK. With a fast 400-plus film, you have quite a range to work with even at a 1/500 sec fixed speed thanks to that fast lens. ~~PN~~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_noble Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 Charles I found the point you are referring to thanks tot he Yashica Guy website. There is says i should have a reading of 0ohms (ermm.surely he can't mean this or does he mean an open circuit). Well, i measured mine to be 871 Ohms. Pete, i had thought about this but i bought the electro with the intent of replacing my FED1g as that camera is an absolute bitch to use in low light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_stobbs3 Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Zero Ohms is a dead short, or essentially no resistance along the wire from the cavity to the pad, which is just what you want. I'm no expert but 871 ohms sounds like way too much resistance, you should replace the wire. A search of the "classic camera repair forum" website over the last year or so should have several threads about this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_noble Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 Thats exactly what i thought Charles as it's supposed to be the negative terminal of the PCB to the battery. I had found that forum but i found searching through it a real hassle and got discouraged by not finding anything in the several i saw. I'll replace the wire and see how that goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_m Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 The Electro is perfectly usable with its single manual 1/500 shutter speed. Just change the aperture. No battery needed. It's hardly worth spending money on to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_noble Posted November 16, 2006 Author Share Posted November 16, 2006 Well, the yashica-guys circuit board didn't match my camera for some reason. anyways, found the correct point and the wire is fine. I have found some very good resources, i.e schematics and a whole electro service manual http://personal.inet.fi/koti/picnet/Y35G for the schematics and macros I want the auto exposure and as i'm supposed to be doing a masters in electronic engineering i should find fixing this easy. hell if i'm really bored i may even replace the whole electronics with some pic implementation (must stress the "really bored"), however, i have thought of modifying the exposure by some clever resistor changes to bring the camera to a decent sensitivity range (up to iso 2000) I cannot remeber where i found the entire service manual so if you want it ask me as i can't post it here (too big) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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