Hasselblad operation

[kryn_sporry1]

Well, today I got my lens back from repairs and finally I could

start playing with my newly acquired Hasselblad.

I mounted the lens, all fine. I checked the mirror setting

(apparently on the 2000FC you can set 3 positions for mirror

settings), and made sure it was on "2" (this meaning that the mirror

operates like any other SLR camera: flips up when you make the

picture and immediately after flips down). I took a few test shots

without the back on, to see how the shutter operated. After 5 shots

it locked up couldn't do anything with back on or off.

Then I found out by accident (didn't find it back in the manual)

that I then press the silver mirror setting button and rotate the

winder until it arms. It does that, but it won't trigger any shots

in mirror setting 2. When I change to mirror setting 1 or mirror

setting 0 it does trigger. Ofcourse with the back on, and no film in

the back, the back counter does not advance I don't know if this

matters. WHen I want to advance a frame and arm the shutter, I can

do this only when I press the mirror setting button again. I can

take another shot. Surprisingly it doesn't seem to matter if I put

the mirror in setting 1 or 0. In both cases it will keep the mirror

flipped up until I arm the shutter and mirror. Then it will drop

down. And ofcourse it flips up again when I make the picture.

 

When I keep the shutter release pressed (mirror setting 2) and I

wind up (again I need to press the mirror setting button to get the

winder to turn), sometimes it will release the shutter and sometimes

it doesn't.

I tried this with a C lens as well and same beahviour so I think the

body is the source of the problem.

My previous Bronica S2A was very straight forward. I load film, wind

it up, press the release and it makes a photo. regardless of any

settings whatsoever.

Am I missing something?

 

I believe this unit uses a battery. Is it possible an empty battery

explains this behaviour?

[kryn_sporry1]

Oh, it just got worse. Now I can only depress the mirror setting button when it points to setting "0". So when it points to 1 or 2 I can't depress it and therefore I cannot turn the winder, unless it all happens with setting "0".

I can also no longer press the release button. Please note that never did I use any force and I do not hear any strange creaking of gear wheels.

[tarashnat]

Kryn,

 

Check if the battery is OK.

 

Taras

[tarashnat]

Kryn,

 

I believe the FC/M and the FCW allow you to fire the lens shutter with a dead battery with

the body set on 'C' on the shutter speed ring. I do not belive that the FC allows this

behavior.

 

The mirror settings are never drop, drop after cocking, and drop after exposure.

Depressing the disc should allow you to cock the camera without winding the film (useful

for multiple exposures-the reason I bought a 2000FCW body).

 

The back will not show a number until after few exposures. When loading film, you

normally wind the film until the number 1 is in the window. Before this, there will either be

a '0' or nothing in the window, depending on the age of the back. The shutter will not fire

if the back has the dark slide inserted.

 

The battery is in a removable holder on the left side of the body near the flash sync port. It

lookes like a plastic square. You can pull this out. The battery is a P28 or S28 (I forget the

letter).

 

Taras

[kryn_sporry1]

Thanks for the explanations.

WHen I look in the manual, it states that the mirror program disk allows 3 settings, which are (in short) the ones I provided: down-move up on shutter release-move down after shutter release; up-move down upon cocking shutter-move up on shutter release; always up.

Now, I can understand it won't trigger if the battery is flat. though i do find it odd the manual doesn't mention this at all. I wuld say it is rather crucial for camera operations. However, the mirror program disk I can not depress and cock the shutter (for multiple exposures) if the mirror program disk is in settings 1 or 2. It only works in setting 0. that is not correct behaviour to me.

[q.g._de_bakker]

Krijn,<br><br>It isn't normal behaviour. I'm afraid you will have to find someone willing and able to have a close look at your 2000 FC.<br>That will not be easy though; even when the model was current, not many repairshops wanted to touch a 2000 FC. :-(

[cameron_ertman]

When you go to check the battery or replace it with a new one, be sure to check the battery contacts on the holder as well. They need to be absolutely clean for best operation. You can use a pencil eraser to clean off light grime, or a bit of steel wool or very fine sandpaper if there is obvious pitting etc. Always check the obvious first, right?

[kryn_sporry1]

I checked the camera with the shop following my instructions (they have another 2000FC). The guy said that he could recreate the symptoms if he removed the battery.

SO I bought a battery and tried again.

Guess what...

No it didn't work...

I returned it. They advertised it as "E++" and "slight signs of usage". It is not, so I asked my money back. They will have it tomorrow and they should return me my money. I haven't been able to use it ever. When I got it first the lens was hanging on one screw. I am surprised they actually packed it that way! So on the same day I received it, I send the lens back. Yesterday I got the lens back fixed and all. I put it on the camera and nothing happened. Today on teh phone we did some investigation (The guy didn't sound like he knew what he was talking about by the way). And I tol dhim I wanted to return it and get my money back. He said he was almost certain that it was serviced. Well, it wasn't, so I want my money back. End of story. I'll get a cheap body on Ebay and have that serviced. It will be cheaper and at least it will work. Maybe I'll get a 500 c/m. I don't believe they need batteries, do they?

[enw]

The 500c/m is a purely mechancial camera, no batteries. It's a great choice.