What to look for when buying M3?

[pete_gregar1]

I have been reading up on the M3 camera. As I think this is for me.

I have a few questions on the variations and what to look for in a

user camera.

 

Single vs double stroke?

Glass vs Metal pressure plate??

Canada vs Germany

Some have selectable finders??

Damaged Vulcanite? Replace it or repair?

[stuart_richardson]

Look for one with a recent CLA (Clean, Lube, Adjust) and a clear finder. The rest is fairly

minor. Single versus double stroke is personal preference (I have a double stroke and like it),

the rest of the stuff is even more minor, particularly if you buy after the preview lever was

added. Glass versus metal really makes no difference, the new shutter speeds are a very

minor differnce, within the error of the shutter anyway. Vulcanite can be replaced if you really

care that much, but a few chips should not matter. The most important things are that it has

been recently serviced and the finder is in good shape (no separation or haze...bright and

clear. It should have a bluish tint with a yellowish rangefinder patch).

[Bill Blackwell Images]

Some good information here:

 

http://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm

 

and here:

 

http://www.cameraquest.com/mguide.htm#M3's

[pete_gregar1]

I have already read the cameraquest site.

 

if the viewfinder has problems, can this be fixed cheaply?

Cost of a CLA?

[vincenzo_maielli]

Hi, dear friend. For me, a Leica M3 camera must have a metal top press film, a current shutter times scale and, over all, a very brilliant viewfinder whith a clear rangefinder patch.

Ciao.

 

Vincenzo Maielli Bari Italy

[stuart_richardson]

Pete -- viewfinder problems will likely be expensive because they require the removal of

the top plate of the camera. If I remember correctly, the cost of a CLA is about 250 dollars,

so it makes sense to either buy a camera that has recently been serviced by a reputable

mechanic, or to factor in that cost on top of your purchase price. As I said before, the

modern speed markings may be nice to look at, but the difference does not really matter.

If you have any question about that, use a shutter speed tester and you will probably find

that your shutter speeds will fluctuate much more than you would imagine. Your 1/125th

might be 1/150th or 1/90th, and it might change from 1/100th to 1/130th depending on

its "mood". This is simply a fact of life with mechanical shutters. The best you can hope for

is for it to be within 1/3rd of a stop, and then only after a CLA.

[h._p.]

I found that it paid to buy from a dealer. My M3, bought about three years ago, had a rangefinder problem. Ace Cameras in Bath (UK), who I bought it from, got it fixed within a week and had the viewfinder cleaned while they were at it. Incidentally, I went for one in what you might call 'user' condition because it was considerably cheaper. In my case this means that there were a couple of small dents on the top plate. I've added a couple of my own since then....

 

:-)))

[ronald_moravec1]

I don`t like DS and they all failed anyway. Been replaced with single stroke and I`m happier. Cost was perhaps $200 a long time ago.

 

Make sure the RF patch is bright and clear. Dim ones may just need cleaning or the cement may be failing which could be very expensive.

Look at a new camera so you have a basis for comparison. In good condition, there is no difference.

 

Glass plates are not a problem.

 

I would stay away from old beat up cameras as they were likely press or wedding machines and can be pretty well worn.

[paul_neuthaler]

Take a look at the M4-P-- I find I like it much better than the M3's I used to use.

[james_elwing]

A clear viewfinder and remember early cameras didn't have a lens preview lever; you had to put the actual lens on to get the correct frame. I have, however, seen some beautiful 1954/55 M3's at good prices recently. Unless they are very early numbers, they don't seem to be appreciated. There are some potential dust seal problems with early ones, at the winder and maybe the eye position viewfinder.

An issue I have had with my '55 is corroded electronic flash circuit, which I forgot to check as I rarely use flash.

I think if an M3 looks good, sounds good, and everything works, voila. A single wind is a little more convenient. If a D/W has not been heavily used, I can't see a problem, & it can be replaced.

[tony_senzaorbi]

The most expensive things to fix on an M3 are: shot DS winder ($300 or more), decemented rangefinder ($250 to recement, $600 to replace), and messed-up shutter ($100-200 to rebuild and replace curtains). I know people who have had to have one of each of those done to theirs recently. The vulcanite is a non-issue, cause first of all its only cosmetic and second of all theres some guy in Japan who sells lookalike recovering for $20. The frame selector is handy, the glass plate by itself is a non-issue except that those are the ones with DS and mostly without the selector too. The ones made in Canada are collectible so you'll pay a premium for one. I had an M3 for many years, sold it for an M6 but wish I'd had the money to keep it. Can't beat one for the finder if you use a 50 a lot.

[graham john miles]

Having just read the Leica guide, linked second in this thread, I am amazed at the depth of knowledge there seems to be regarding the design evolution of the 'M' Series. Is there any other camera that can be catalogued so completely? One thing that strikes me from the tone of this link is the odd philosophy that seems have driven Leitz in producing various iterations. From the heyday of the late M-3 and MP which seem to many to be the epitome of rangefinder design, they appear to have a taken a meandering path to today's models. They seemed to have cut and compromised, stepped forwards then backwards, finally arriving full circle at what they had in the first place in the late 1950's. Their slowness to adapt to new technology, bizarre design choices in battery covers and rewind knobs, removal of lenses from rangefinder mechanisms, all seem to indicate a patchy if not disorganized approach to technology and design. Yes they are marvellous cameras, I've had four of them from M-2 to M-4. But for the price they are now looking not great value for the money. Personally, I'd find a cheap scratched up one, throw a great lens on it, and use it until it croaked. If you spend a bundle you'll baby it, put it on a shelf to show your friends when they come over, but they'll have to wear cotton gloves before they can touch it.

[stuart_richardson]

"If you spend a bundle you'll baby it, put it on a shelf to show your friends when they come

over, but they'll have to wear cotton gloves before they can touch it."

 

<P>Not everybody acts like that. Some people don't like to use stuff they paid a lot for,

but others revel in the fact that they bought something really nice AND NOW THEY GET TO

USE IT. Personally, I figure what's the point of buying something you are not going to use

or be afraid to use. I have an MP that I bring everywhere and use all the time precisely

because it was expensive. I would feel like an idiot to have spent so much on something I

did not enjoy every day. If it breaks or gets stolen, that is horrible, but it is also why it is

on my insurance policy.