best equipment for shooting performing artists

[carolyn_stevens]

I could really use some advice. I love photography, but I have been

away from it for awhile. I have a bunch of ballerina friends and

musician friends that I want to shoot. The action would be anything

from sitting around backstage to moving fast. Most would be done with

available light. I have a Nikon N2000 body, but not a good lens. I

was hoping to get some advice on some essential equipment I would need

to turn this into a serious hobby (or maybe even more). I don't have

a lot of $$$, so I want to make sure I make good choices. Many thanks.

[tommyinca]

My vote, Nikon 50mm/1.8 AIS and a 75-150/3.5 Series E. Less then $200 both together.

[douglas_green1]

I don't know about your ballarina friends, but for many performance artists, and in particular, street mimes, I recommend using a 22 caliber pistol for shooting them, as it's easily concealed, thus assisting in maintaining the element of surprise.

[carolyn_stevens]

I agree - street performers (mimes especially) deserve the 22. Thanks for the laugh!

[douglas_green1]

On a more serious note, given that you're in the Nikon system with manual focus gear, I'd suggest that you get a fast, fixed focal length short telephoto: You should look at either the 85mm f2 AI or AIS, or the 105mm f1.8 AI or AIS lenses. The 85mm will be much smaller and lighter as well as cheaper (figure $125-150 used) while the 105mm f1.8 would run you (maybe $250 used). I would also recommend another better handling body than the N2000, like either the Nikon FG, FE, or FE2. The FE or FG could be gotten for less than $100, while an FE2 would be more like $200-250. Having two bodies would allow you to keep a 50mm on one, and the telephoto on the other, without changing lenses, as well as to keep maybe B&W in one and color film in the other.

[anupam]

I get by at concerts with a 50/1.4, 105/2.5 (an 85/1.4 would be nice) and a 180/2.8. Unless you are metering by eye and compensating, a body with a spot meter would help, as would reasonable autofocus. But you might want to sacrifice autofocus for lens quality as I did.

[ben conover]

Fast primes as stated above, fast film, and some planning.

 

Cheers.

[carolyn_stevens]

Thanks everyone - for the great information. This forum is a wonderful resource!

[._._z]

<i><blockquote> I was hoping to get some advice on some essential equipment

</blockquote> </i><p>

 

The best equipment is between your ears. Click on the 'Learn' section and read the

articles, then consider getting one good prime (non-zoom) lens and spend several

months learning to use it.

[richard_oleson]

A lot depends on your budget and your location. If a 50mm won't get you close enough and an f/1.8 tele is too expensive, a 135/2.8 is an underrated and generally underpriced lens that you might find useful.

[klix]

Body - FE2

 

Lens - 105/2.5 AIS (every Nikon shooter should have one)

 

Underrated lenses - 135/2.8 or 200/4

[bob oldendorf]

I'll second much of what's been said above about lenses and bodies, but

here's a point that hasn't been mentioned:

 

Depending upon your relationship to the performers (and to the venue's

rules), a simple monopod can be invaluable.

 

A $30-$50 monopod can buy you a couple of stops' worth of stability, which

can let you get away with using a $100 85mm/f2, instead of needing a $500

85mm/f1.4.

 

Good luck, and post some of your results!

[neil_parker]

The performers will be moving faster than you, so a fast lens and fast film are the most

important things.

 

Fuji 800 (Press/Superia/NPZ, they're all great)

 

How close you can get or want to be determines the best lens. A fast short tele or 2 as

already mentioned, definitely. But sometimes you might want to get really close with a fast

35 or 28 for a dramatic shot of a performer.

[frank.schifano]

It's already been said, though I'll add my votes for the 50mm f/1.8 and the 85mm f/2. Both are small, light, very sharp, and fast. Fast lenses are important not only to overcome film speed limitation, but also as an aid to quick and accurate focusing. The 105mm f/2.5 is legendary. I wouldn't trade mine for anything except maybe for the 105mm f/1.8. The 135mm f/2.8 is a good lens too, but I don't use mine much. It is too long for some things and not long enough for others. I'm not surprised that it has become pretty much an orphaned focal length.

 

If you plan to use color film, stick with color negative and use the fastest film you need to get the job done. It is much easier to correct out some of the color shifts you will undoubtedly get when exposing these films under tungsten lighting. Using color correction filter will probably be out of the question. You can expect to loose 2 or 3 stops of light if you use one. It is not likely that you will have the extra light to spare. Fuji's line of ISO 800 color negative films are very good and there is an ISO 1600 film available that I've never used.

 

If you go for B&W film and do your own processing you have even more choices.

[art_haykin]

I shot all kinds of performers for years, and I can tell you that MANY of the great shots you've seen were staged, or posed, or, at least, well planned, and you never see the ones that don't make the cut. Candids are great for just sitting around, but performance shots require extra effort and knowhow, not to mention the proper gear and films.

[carolyn_stevens]

Thanks everyone. You have been most helpful. This will really help get me going - there is certainly enough here to experiment with. If I do manage any successes, I will post them! Thanks again.