Hasselblad 1.4 Shift converter users opinions

[gary_yeowell]

Hi,

I'm considering the purchase of a 1.4 shift converter available to

me for use with the following lenses: 40CFEIF, 50CFI, 60CF, 100CFI,

120CFI, 180CFI, for both shifting and as a straight converter for

the 180. Can anyone offer any user opinions on ease of use and

quality of results. I have owned a flexbody but found it lacking in

terms of functionality. Thanks in advance.

[gary_yeowell]

I have just found some info from an old Blad catalogue which states that only lenses of between 40-80 can be used with shift, and only lenses between 40-100 as converter . I must confess this limits the useability somewhat, but would still appreciate opinions of use and quality.

Thanks.

[larry_menzin]

Are you shooting film or digital? With the full film FOV you don't get a lot of shift due to the limited image circle of the Zeiss lenses. The limitation is more severe at the 40mm end. If you shoot digital with the 1.5x crop factor you'll be able to shift the full distance (up to about 14mm) with most lenses.

 

The quality is excellent. When I mount the 50mm Distagon FLE to get a shifted 70mm F5.6 equivalent, I can't see a significant quality degradation when compared with the original 50mm lens. I have mounted up to 120mm, even though the specs state up to 100mm.

[gary_yeowell]

Thanks for the reply Larry, at the moment only film, however I did own a Phase One P20 back but was less than enamoured with its performance regarding moire and colour fringing when shifting on my flex body. The near future however may hold the purchase of a Leaf Aptus which I have tried and like the results better than the Phase.

Incidently if you are using digital have you found any artifacts induced by the 1.4 converter?

 

Regards, Gary.

[larry_menzin]

Gary, I am shooting with a Kodak ProBack. I've never had any problem when shifting up/down up to 15mm. Since the 1.4x doesn't tilt I cannot say that tilt wouldn't be an issue. However, when I mount the Kodak to a Horseman Digiflex II with a Nikon 85mm T/S lens I can tilt that with no fringing or moire issues. Although I have the Kodak AA filter, I've never had to mount it. The magenta tree branch phenomenon can be easily rectified with the AA filter, but I usually just take care of it in software. The Kodak IR filter was supposed to be sensitive to tilt/shift in terms of color fringing, but I've never encountered it, at least with the amounts of shifting I've been doing. The 1.4x Mutar is great, other than the 1.4x FOV loss with the converter, combined with the 1.5x of the digital chip, turning my 50mm Distagon into a short telephoto and my 40mm Distagon into a normal lens. These FOV shortcomings are usually handled via stitching.

[gary_yeowell]

Thanks again Larry, some great info.

[christian_kloumann]

Hi Gary

 

I have the 1.4x PC-Mutar. I live in Norway and have the Swedish user manual. If you want it, I can scan it and send it to you.

 

The PC-Mutar demands somewhat thoughtfulness and handiness. You can't just mount it and shoot. It must be fine-tuned to your camera by adjusting screws. And after each shot you must re-cock the in-build spring whith the gear-lever handle.

 

Despite this: For me it represent the very best in opical and mechanical quality. It is a true pearl indeed.

[gary_yeowell]

Hi Christian,

Thanks for the offer of scanning the manual, although this is probably unnecessary as I understand the re cocking part as this is similar to my old flex body. However i don't quite understand your comment regarding 'adjusting screws' and wonder if you could elaborate. Thanks again.

[christian_kloumann]

Hi Gary

 

The reason for my words about the tuning-screws was due to your question for opinions of ease of use.

 

The 1.4x PC-Mutar was made to fit all the 500-, 500EL*, 2000, and 200-series cameras, and the F- , CF(i/e) -lenses.

 

The 1.4x PC-Mutar has a double cable-release, and due the order of operations from touch of the release to the final exposure presuppose that it is adjusted for the actual combination.

 

One of the cords of double cable-release interacts with the camera, and the other with the lens. These has to be synchronized with respect to the order of operations. These are both camera- and lens- dependent.

 

Plese tell me if you want me go in more detail.

 

Sunshine from Norway

[gary_yeowell]

Christian,

I'm a bit unsure what you mean by lens dependent, as i would have thought that the working proceedure is the same with any lens except of course taking into consideration the differing amounts of 'coverage' each lens affords.

 

Kind regards,

Gary.

[christian_kloumann]

Hi, Gary

 

First, I hope not the procedure of pre-adjustment will scare you away for getting a PC-Mutar. It is my favorite Hassy-supplement, and matches my PCP80-projectors, which also have perspective control. Lovely to see the frame moving up and down, keeping the lines straight ;-)

 

The PC-Mutar can be used with all lenses form 40mm to 100mm. With 40-80 you can use the full 16mm shift, both up and down. But with a 100mm you must be within 8mm up and down.

 

Before using it for the first time, you must use some time following a procedure for adjusting/tune the double-release (screw).

If you change camera model, or lens, you should check the procedure again. I have only used it with to of my lenses, the CF40 and CFE80, and I have checked I can switch between them without adjusting the double release. But if change from my 2000FCW (focal plane shutter) to for example a 503 or 500ELX I must re-adjust.

 

The reason is the importance of the order of the (many) different events during an exposure with the PC-Mutar:

The double release shall first close the shutter in the lens. Then it should trig the camera for the mirror-up and the back light-doors. Then the shutter in the lens should fire. If the double release is not adjusted accurately, the order of the sequense could be wrong.

 

Bring a lot of warm clothes with you and take a trip to Oslo and Norway to try it! :-)

[gary_yeowell]

Many thanks Christian for a very informative response, all very clear now.

I'm probably off to Death Valley, Califirnia, in next few weeks for shooting images in some sunshine, London's freezing right now but i'm sure not as cold as Norway! As i do travel photography for a living i will one day get to Norway, it looks incredible. If you would like to see some of my work mostly shot on the Hassy system, feel free to visit "www.gettyimages.com" then in the "creative" section type "yeowell" in search box provided.

Thanks again, best wishes.