FD 35mm lenses

[gnashings]

Hi all,

I have been trying to make heads or tales of the Canon 35mm f2

lenses. As far as I know there is five original FD (three non SSC,

one of which is a concave front element, and two SSC's - one

concave, one convex), and one New FD. What I would like to know is

which one to look for, how big the differences are (and what they

are), etc. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[peter_white2]

I only have the last version. Great lens. There seem to be plenty around in good condition for short money. I'll never sell mine. Even if I stopped using it and went 100% digital, I wouldn't get enough for it to make it worth the trouble.

[awahlster]

actually there are 5 of the breech lock versions and 1 nFD

 

That said if you want to shoot color stay away from the Chrome nose and the first S.S.C. version with the concave front element and it tends to be very very warm when used for color as the thorium has caused the lens to take on an amber cast.

 

The last version is the one I shoot with the most (I use my thorium one for B&W only where the amber cast gives it awesome contrast) they are all very good lenses.

 

The Thorium is the sharpest but as I said carrys a BUT. NO COLOR or you will have to do a lot of correcting

[lance_dennis]

Peter,

 

Like Mark, I have both the first concave, chrome nose version and the latest convex FDn version. Both are very good. However, I find the concave chrome nose version to be extremely sharp. I have over 30 Canon lenses and only two are sharper: the 55/1.2 ASPH and the 85/1.2L.

 

The fellow who did this testing http://tinyurl.com/wkjw found the chrome nose 35/2 to be the sharpest of all the lenses he tested.

 

The CN 35/2 has thorium and because of that slowly turns brown over a number of years. It is possible to easily "bleach" it water clear. I and others have done so.

 

-Lance

[peter_white2]

Presumably you had to dissassemble the lens to do the bleaching. What was involved?

[gregory_nicholson]

Wrap the lens in tin foil without caps, cut the front and rear element portions away with a toothpick and sit the lens on a window sill that gets strong midday light. Point the front element at the sun. The sunlight will remove the yellow cast over time. Periodically inspect the lens by looking through it on to a piece of computer paper, when the color of the paper is the same from through the lens as it is surrounding the lens you're done. It took about three week or a month for mine to clear up. I live in Michigan so if you live in Colorado or another sunny place the time could be less. Of coarse, if you photoshop and print your own pictures this is unnecessary as you can easily remove the yellow/green cast with any number of PS's color management tools.

[lance_dennis]

~~Snip~~

Wrap the lens in tin foil without caps, cut the front and rear element portions away

~~snip~~

 

I left the foil covering the bottom, so the light was reflected back throught the thorium doped element a second time. I don't know if that makes a difference, but I hoped it would. :)

 

-Lance

[gnashings]

Thank you very much for al your input. I think I will have to make a bit of a decision now. I am drawn to one of the earlier concave lenses just due to their unique nature - its something I know I would get a kick out of owning. And I shoot mainly B&W, so the radio-active cast (hehehe) is not an issue here. I know that the NewFD is significatnly different (having more elements in more groups than the original five), and from all the reports, here and everywhere, it is an outstanding lens. From my searches, it is also the most affordible, since it is overlooked by collectors. So the decison will be vanity vs. practicality...

[doug_nelson1]

By all means, get an FD early version AND an FDn 35 f2. I've seen both go for under $100, but $150 for a very nice one isn't out of line. If you hate barrel distortion as much as I do, the sample of the FDn 35 f2 I have shows none that I can see. KEH now has a 35 f2 FDn for $69. Mine was a Bargain grade from KEH, and I find no fault with it.

 

The 35 f2.8 is every bit the performer of the other two at f5.6 and f8, and not at all shabby at any other aperture. The 2.8 has a cheaper 5-blade aperture, and seems to show a tad more barrel distortion. For situations like backpacking or rough and tumble travel, its light and handy on an AV or AT-1. Mine was $35.

 

On any of these, use a shade. See http://www.dougnelsonphoto.com/-/dougnelsonphoto/article.asp?ID=894 and http://www.dougnelsonphoto.com/-/dougnelsonphoto/article.asp?ID=79 (last paragraph) for two alternative shades to the hard to find Canon BW 55A and BW 52A.

[User_502260]

My 35/2 is a breech lock black front SSC with the concave front element. I shoot color negative film with it with no problems. The yellow cast is just filtered out when the negatives are printed. I also use it for black & white. It is quite sharp.

[gnashings]

Thanks again for the input. I think I will hunt for the concave SSC simply because I find it interesting and I like the unusual look and construction of the lens. I may take the advice of also getting a cheap user - I think this is focal length that may become a favourite of mine! Thanks!