a.underwood Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 I've been carying around my Canon XT DSLR for metering when using my LF gear. That's a pain and also Canon's version of ISO 100 is off compared to film ISO so I get a slight constant underexposure. I just want something simple and light to use. Used for sure. I was looking at just getting a used Minolta meter from KEH but I thought I would ask you guys to see what would be best for say $100-150? Gossen? Minolta? Incidental or Reflective? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jo7hs2 Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 Thanks for the warning about the XT, because I was planning to use mine until I pick up a light meter. Guess I'll use one of my K-1000 knock-off's simple internal meters instead, or compensate with the knowledge that the XT is off a tad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stwrtertbsratbs5 Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 I use a Soligor Digital Spot Meter that I bought used fro $76 on the auction site. Adorama sells them under their own brand name for $250. It's a good spot - very easy to use and accurate. Not as nce as a Pentax Digital Spot, but a whole lot cheaper. Go with a spot if you are using, or intend to use, the Zone System. Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickc1 Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 Ditto ditto ditto - my Soligor cost 52GBP from *bay - worth every penny! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.underwood Posted December 7, 2005 Author Share Posted December 7, 2005 Joshua, It's actually that way with all Canon DSLR's. ISO 100 is more like 125, 200 is 250, 400 is 500 and so on compared to film ISO. I wasn't thinking of a spot meter but it would be nice to have I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_rhoades Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 A spot is nice even if you don't plan to be a full blown zonie. When using a half-assed zone system approch of expose for the shadows, it's nice to know what you want on zone three is really there. If you hold out for a Pentax digital you will only buy once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert x Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 Hi Aaron - I bought a second hand Gossen Lunasix from ebay and in the end paid more to get it fixed than it had cost me and in the meantime bought myself a SEKONIC L-308, which you should be able to pick up for about $150 new, and is very light and easy to use and accurate, I have found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.underwood Posted December 7, 2005 Author Share Posted December 7, 2005 The Sekonic looks pretty nice actually. I've never had a flash meter either which would be nice but not needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndc Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 "Canon's version of ISO 100 is off compared to film ISO so I get a slight constant underexposure." Now I'm not a "canon" person by any means, but I have to wonder about that statement. The only way you could really say the XT's meter is off is if you are getting poor exposures with the XT itself. Not to mention that the XT is using a center-weighted averaging meter system. A meter system designed explicitly for the exposure range and response of a CMOS sensor, which is considerably different than for film. On top of all that, it could also very well be that your LF shutter is just off. Getting a stand-alone meter is a good idea. And I wouldn't be surprised if, when you get it, you find you have to use it differently when metering for the Canon vs. the LF camera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_v Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 Another vote for the digital Pentax spot meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark f Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 Color or black and white......I'd go for a spot meter. I have several (including the Lunasix) and I now only use my Pentax digital spot meter. Yes, you do need to learn to use it. At the same time, you know exactly what you are going to get on the film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilkka Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 Minolta Spotmeter F. Pentax digital if you want a simpler meter that requires more thinking and fiddling. Sekonic 308 is nice but practically speaking incident only. I would not want it as my only meter for LF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd_rose Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 I use a Sekonic L-358 that I cherish, but if I had it to do all over again, I would buy a combo spot/incident light meter. --- JDR<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_simmons Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Stretch the budget to get a combo spot/incident. I've got the Sekonic L508 and can't imagine I'll ever need another meter. (I don't use flash all that much.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas_sullivan Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 another vote for the Sekonic 508. Has variable spot, incident, flash, two ISO settings, digital read out but also has the analog scale on the bottom with 3 memory and last readings showing (lets you visually see the width of the zone very easily as the 4 readings (3 mem + last) show there). Flash lets you do wired or non wired trigger for when you are setting up the light ratios between two or more flashes. And much much more I forget or have never used. And last but not least...........1 AA battery...............ONE, and that lasts forever just about. NOT in your price range............but worth every dime extra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abrepsom1 Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 I started off with a 2nd-hand Gossen Sixtomat digital that I bought for about $120, but in the end, I was missing the spot metering feature. So, I went for a Sekonic L-608 and I couldn't be more satisfied (L-508 or L-558 are very similar). Of course, such a Sekonic is more expensive, but I think, as many others here too, that it is worth the money. In the end, it is often better to buy the best gear right away than to try and save some money when buying gear that is a compromise. One day, you'll end up buying the best possible item anyway. So why waste money on second league gear? Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.underwood Posted December 8, 2005 Author Share Posted December 8, 2005 John, Digitals version of film ISO could vary compared to actual film. They can call ISO 100 anything they want and it will meter right within it's own system. Comparing it to film and using it for film can be off and the canon system is known for having different readings then "actual" film ISO. The nicer meters would make sense.......it's just that I've got this complex, expensive L lens collection and used to shoot with a 1 series DSLR but the "grass roots" bug bit me and I decided to downgrade to a smaller camera and then bought a LF view camera and wanted to keep this film system as simple and "retro" I guess as I could. Now i'm not going to go full zonie or something but still I wanted to keep it simple (which applies to how much I have invested in it to I guess). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.underwood Posted December 8, 2005 Author Share Posted December 8, 2005 How about an L-408? A little older unit but looks to be a nice piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_senesac Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Depends on what/how you shoot. If your use is mainly for outdoor use without any flash lighting setups: Shepherd Dual Polaris 5 degree spot with ambient $270 at B&H. Lightweight, simple, cheaper, modern design with lcd display. ...David http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&Q=&is=REG&O=productlist&kw=SHP2&cpncode=07-3606841-2&sku=239090&srccode=cii_5784816 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hakon_soreide Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 I've got the Gossen Lunasix, which I got second-hand with all kinds of attachments that I never use, except for the spot meter attachment, that I've begun using now that I know more about the zone system. It's a nice meter both for incident and reflective metering, accurate and sensitive down to very low-light conditions, but sometimes a smaller spot would have been nice.<p> Still, whenever I've used it, I've got spot-on correct exposures - at least if I've done my reciprocity failure and bellows extension calculations correctly and stopped down the lens to the right aperture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
van_camper Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 I've gone through a number of high end meters (flash/incident/reflective only meters). Now with the spot/incident combos out there, it is the only way to go. Sure, it may be expensive, but cheaper in the long run, more convenient (only needing to take ONE with you), and you won't need to be buying another meter unless yours wears out. I use the Sekonic L558. Love it, and reliable! I can quickly switch from incident to spot when the lighting sitution requires it. No one meter type can do it all, get it all in a single package. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pvp Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Aaron, since you've set a budget and also said you're not thinking in terms of spotmeter, I'll suggest what I use: Gossen Lunapro-F. (IINM it's sold under a different model name also, but I'm not sure which it is.) Anyway, it's easy to find, uses 9V batteries, incident and reflected. With its analog display, you can set an exposure and then pan the meter across your scene and watch the needle -- it will tell you directly how far over or under the set value directly from the needle, up to +/- 3 stops. Later (or immediately!) you can add the 15/7.5 degree spot attachment (better for panning across the scene.) Short of a 1 degree spot, I can't think of a better choice. IMHO, of course! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now