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It's time to buy a light meter


a.underwood

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I've been carying around my Canon XT DSLR for metering when using my

LF gear. That's a pain and also Canon's version of ISO 100 is off

compared to film ISO so I get a slight constant underexposure.

 

I just want something simple and light to use. Used for sure. I

was looking at just getting a used Minolta meter from KEH but I

thought I would ask you guys to see what would be best for say $100-

150? Gossen? Minolta? Incidental or Reflective?

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Thanks for the warning about the XT, because I was planning to use mine until I pick up a light meter. Guess I'll use one of my K-1000 knock-off's simple internal meters instead, or compensate with the knowledge that the XT is off a tad.
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I use a Soligor Digital Spot Meter that I bought used fro $76 on the auction site. Adorama sells them under their own brand name for $250. It's a good spot - very easy to use and accurate. Not as nce as a Pentax Digital Spot, but a whole lot cheaper.

 

Go with a spot if you are using, or intend to use, the Zone System.

 

Robert

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Hi Aaron - I bought a second hand Gossen Lunasix from ebay and in the end paid more to get it fixed than it had cost me and in the meantime bought myself a SEKONIC L-308, which you should be able to pick up for about $150 new, and is very light and easy to use and accurate, I have found.
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"Canon's version of ISO 100 is off compared to film ISO so I get a slight constant underexposure."

 

Now I'm not a "canon" person by any means, but I have to wonder about that statement.

 

The only way you could really say the XT's meter is off is if you are getting poor exposures with the XT itself. Not to mention that the XT is using a center-weighted averaging meter system. A meter system designed explicitly for the exposure range and response of a CMOS sensor, which is considerably different than for film.

 

On top of all that, it could also very well be that your LF shutter is just off.

 

Getting a stand-alone meter is a good idea. And I wouldn't be surprised if, when you get it, you find you have to use it differently when metering for the Canon vs. the LF camera.

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Color or black and white......I'd go for a spot meter. I have several (including the Lunasix) and I now only use my Pentax digital spot meter. Yes, you do need to learn to use it. At the same time, you know exactly what you are going to get on the film.
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another vote for the Sekonic 508. Has variable spot, incident, flash, two ISO settings, digital read out but also has the analog scale on the bottom with 3 memory and last readings showing (lets you visually see the width of the zone very easily as the 4 readings (3 mem + last) show there). Flash lets you do wired or non wired trigger for when you are setting up the light ratios between two or more flashes. And much much more I forget or have never used. And last but not least...........1 AA battery...............ONE, and that lasts forever just about.

 

NOT in your price range............but worth every dime extra.

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I started off with a 2nd-hand Gossen Sixtomat digital that I bought for about $120, but in the end, I was missing the spot metering feature. So, I went for a Sekonic L-608 and I couldn't be more satisfied (L-508 or L-558 are very similar). Of course, such a Sekonic is more expensive, but I think, as many others here too, that it is worth the money. In the end, it is often better to buy the best gear right away than to try and save some money when buying gear that is a compromise. One day, you'll end up buying the best possible item anyway. So why waste money on second league gear?

 

Good luck

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John,

 

Digitals version of film ISO could vary compared to actual film. They can call ISO 100 anything they want and it will meter right within it's own system. Comparing it to film and using it for film can be off and the canon system is known for having different readings then "actual" film ISO.

 

The nicer meters would make sense.......it's just that I've got this complex, expensive L lens collection and used to shoot with a 1 series DSLR but the "grass roots" bug bit me and I decided to downgrade to a smaller camera and then bought a LF view camera and wanted to keep this film system as simple and "retro" I guess as I could. Now i'm not going to go full zonie or something but still I wanted to keep it simple (which applies to how much I have invested in it to I guess).

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Depends on what/how you shoot. If your use is mainly for outdoor use without any flash lighting setups: Shepherd Dual Polaris 5 degree spot with ambient $270 at B&H. Lightweight, simple, cheaper, modern design with lcd display. ...David

 

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&Q=&is=REG&O=productlist&kw=SHP2&cpncode=07-3606841-2&sku=239090&srccode=cii_5784816

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I've got the Gossen Lunasix, which I got second-hand with all kinds of attachments that I never use, except for the spot meter attachment, that I've begun using now that I know more about the zone system. It's a nice meter both for incident and reflective metering, accurate and sensitive down to very low-light conditions, but sometimes a smaller spot would have been nice.<p>

Still, whenever I've used it, I've got spot-on correct exposures - at least if I've done my reciprocity failure and bellows extension calculations correctly and stopped down the lens to the right aperture.

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I've gone through a number of high end meters (flash/incident/reflective only meters). Now with the spot/incident combos out there, it is the only way to go. Sure, it may be expensive, but cheaper in the long run, more convenient (only needing to take ONE with you), and you won't need to be buying another meter unless yours wears out. I use the Sekonic L558. Love it, and reliable! I can quickly switch from incident to spot when the lighting sitution requires it. No one meter type can do it all, get it all in a single package.
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Aaron, since you've set a budget and also said you're not thinking in terms of spotmeter, I'll suggest what I use: Gossen Lunapro-F. (IINM it's sold under a different model name also, but I'm not sure which it is.)

 

Anyway, it's easy to find, uses 9V batteries, incident and reflected. With its analog display, you can set an exposure and then pan the meter across your scene and watch the needle -- it will tell you directly how far over or under the set value directly from the needle, up to +/- 3 stops. Later (or immediately!) you can add the 15/7.5 degree spot attachment (better for panning across the scene.)

 

Short of a 1 degree spot, I can't think of a better choice. IMHO, of course!

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