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Use of Nikon 100-300 zoom for nature photography


al_ozell

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I have a Nikon AIS 100-300 zoom lenses which is mounted on a Nikon

FE.In addition I use a Nikon 2x converter for small animals and

birds. To maintain mobility, I utilize a monopod and use 400 or 1000

speed film. My results have been spotty and disappointing regarding

image brightness and clarity. Should I be using a fixed focal length

lens vice the zoom. I'm thinking that a Nikon AIS 400 5.6 would yield

better results.

Opinions please.

Al O.

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Al: I'm a Canon gear user, but I feel I can still offer a couple of suggestions. First, I would suggest a tripod rather than just a monopod. Second, a consumer zoom lens can't really compete well with a luxury, fixed focal length telephoto. Adding a tele-extender to a consumer zoom will tend to magnify the shortcomings of the consumer zoom. Regarding "brightness and clarity", you may want to try adding some fill flash to your existing outfit, which might also then allow you to try some slower film such as E200. Of course, using a remote electronic shutter release and mirror pre-lock can, where feasible, improve image sharpness. In the end though, these issues are what drive many to buy sharper, faster lenses.
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Al, if this is the older 5.6 fixed aperture version, this is a nice quality lens. It should work nicely for closer animals, and when used with a Nikon 5 or 6T close up diopter the macro is really good at f11 or 16. Unless you have a concern, avoid using any filters on this lens as it is prone to flare and be sure to use a good lens hood. This lens is not that great wide open so your addition of a converter is probably creating problems. You ABSOLUTELY need a good tripod to use this for critical work, the monopod is almost useless. As far as outdoor durabitity, I used this lens for 8 years to shoot lots of sports and it got, rained, dropped in mud, smashed on concrete, snowed and iced and never stopped working or went to the shop. Sorry I sold it, but I went to autofocus and needed the trade. And yes a good fixed prime lens certainly will be better.
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The Nikkon 100-300mm/f5.6 (fixed max aperture) is a fine lens. As just discussed in another thread, the current version is the 70-300mm AF w/out a tripod collar. However, if you put a 2x TC on this type of zoom and the max aperture becomes f11 at 600mm, you are asking for, at best, mediocre results. It is very difficult to focus critically at f11. And the extra camera shake on a monpod will pretty much guarantee that you'll have poor results. The grain from ISO 400 to 1000 film won't help either.

 

I agree that the first thing you need is a good tripod. If you need a long lens, at a minimum get a (third-party) 400mm/f5.6, but most high-quality bird photography is done with a 600mm/f4 or a 500mm/f4, perhaps with a 1.4x TC on ISO 100 film. And having AF on these long lenses is a great help. Unfortunately, the price tag is also high.

 

Unless you can find a used Nikon 400mm/f5.6 at a good price, I would avoid that lens. It is a very old design (from the 1960's, I think) and a new one is way overpriced at >$2000.

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I also have that lens - only because I got it very cheap. I don't use it much because it doesn't have a tripod collar. It's quite a heavy lens. I feel well armed when I carry it and an F4. I can't imagine having that heavy thing teetering on the end of a camera perched on a monopod is very stable. Try it on a tripod in the backyard before you blame the optics. I don't have a TC I can use on it, so I don't know how much quality suffers, but it's a good bet that it suffers quite a bit. I'm not sure what image brightness means or clarity for that matter, but I've found the results technically quite fine. I'm still trying to figure out how to put a tripod collar on it though.
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I must go along with those who question the use of the 100-300 zoom for nature photography of birds. And, I also agree that the current Nikkor 400mm f/5.6 is not that good. It is an older, manual focus design that is, IMHO, much to expensive for what you get. What would be nice would be Sigma HSM in a Nikon mount if Sigma ever offers it. Nicer would be the Sigma HSM with image stabilization (as hinted at in the June issue of Pop Photo). Nicest would be a Nikkor 400mm f/5.6 AFS with image stabilization.

 

Nikon has woke up, now it's time they got out of bed!

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I'm surprised there weren't more responses about your film choice. It seems to me that using asa 400-1000 speed film, particularly print film, is just about guaranteed to give disappointing results to a nature photographer (regardless of whether you are using consumer zooms or expensive primes). I am not a fan of zooms, but before you dump your 100-300mm, I would suggest you try some Velvia, or E100. Use a tripod and DON"T shoot wide open. If faster film is mandatory, try E200 rated at 320, pushed one stop in developing.
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Bruce, Al was using a (100 to) 300mm/f5.6 with a 2x TC; that is the same as a 600mm/f11 and on a monopod. That set up pretty much demands 1/500 sec at a minimum, which in turn demands very fast films in most situations, even under good sunlight.

 

Several of us seem to agree that the first priority is a good tripod. That will let him bring down the shutter speed and therefore use slower film. It'll also give a true test of how good his lens combination is. The MF Nikkor 100-300mm/f5.6 is a fine lens; however, at least I wouldn't put a 2x TC on it. As Pete points out, the lack of a tripod collar on that particular lens makes it hard to use a a really long lens (w/ 2x at 600mm).

 

Most serious bird photographers use 600mm/f4 lenses and use them at f4 or f5.6 most of the time. A 600mm/f11 is way too slow in most cases. At one time I had a Nikkor 500mm/f8 mirror lens; the viewfinder is so dark that it is very tough to focus correctly.

 

I think this point has been made over and over in this forum: there is no inexpensive way to achieve 600mm (or 500mm) at high quality, which is what you need for small animals and birds. The "cheapest" way is probably a used MF Nikkor 500mm/f4 P, but we are still talking about US$3000 or so for a somewhat beaten up one.

 

As far as films goes, you can still get very good quality with ISO 400 print film. For slide film, I rarely go beyond ISO 200.

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