Tripod / Head for macro work

[stu carnie]

Hi all, <br>

<br>

I am interested in any feedback regarding a good tripod / head for

macro work primarily. I am interested in landscape too, but not my

focus. I'm travelling to Hawai'i (big island) in 2 weeks and plan to

do some macro work whilst there.<br>

<br>

The equipment I intend to use:<br>

<table style="width:350px;border-style:solid">

<tr>

<td style="width:55%;border-bottom:thin solid">Equipment</td><td

style="border-bottom:thin solid">Est. Weight</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>EOS 10D</td><td>~800g / 1.7lbs</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>EOS 70-200 f/2.8L IS</td><td>~1,470g / 3.24 lbs</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>EOS 24-105 f/4.0L IS</td><td>~670g / 23.6 oz</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>Tamron 180 SP DI</td><td>~920g / 32.5 oz</td>

</tr>

</table>

<br>

I also use the Manfrotto 454 Micro Positioning plate for macro work,

weight is ~460g / 1.0 lb<br>

<br>

I currently have a cheap Velbon tripod with a useless quick release

plate and would like to move up to something more sturdy.<br>

<br>

I've looked through the forums and read numerous articles, finding

that either Manfrotto or Gitzo looks like the way to go.<br>

<br>

I will travel with the tripod, therefore any opportunity to reduce

length and weight without significant compromise would be great too.<br>

<br>

Many thanks in advance for you valued assistance.<br>

<br>

Kind Regards,<br>

<br>

Stuart

[stu carnie]

Is up to $500 (I can vary up a little if warranted).

[klix]

That's not really a whole lot of weight, so you have quite a few options. Yeah, a Gitzo would be top of the line, but costly.

 

Personally, I would get a Bogen 3221WN for $165 and the Acratech Ballhead for $280. I'd then get some Arca-Swiss type QR plates (there are several manufacturers).

 

KL

[mcgarity]

With regards to legsets, there are a ton of choices available to you. You are probably going to have to go with aluminum. If you want to stick within your budget you won't be able to buy carbon fiber and still get a decent ball head. Personally I think the Gitzo G-2220 Explorer is an excellent choice. I am delighted with mine. Its about the most flexible tripod on the market. Its load capacity is around 13 pounds or 6 kilograms and its runs around $200.

 

I will give the Kirk BH-3 ballhead a good recommendation. I don't know the exact price these days but a couple years back they were somewhere in the neighborhood of $250. It a very good head. I think it weighs around 20 ounces and has a load capacity of 11 pounds. I may be off a bit but not by much. In any event it will easily handle any or your equipment and then some. If you go that route you will probably want to pick up a quick release plate for your 70-200mm. I paid around $60 for one a plate to fit the EF 70-200mm f4L.

[joseph_smith3]

I second the recommendation for the Gitzo Explorer. I recommend the Kirk BH-1 ballhead over the lighter BH-3.(I have both.) The BH-3 will get the job done; I just prefer "overkill" in doing macro work and I noticed that you have that 70-200 f 2.8. Joe Smith

[mcgarity]

The Kirk BH-1 would bust the budget. And it really would be overkill.

[mark_jordan3]

In my experience the Arca-Swiss style QR mounts are the most secure and offer the widest accessory options (thru companies like Kirk and Really Right Stuff). I like the recommendations of the Bogen 3221 and the BH-3, that combination would give you a very stable platform. The only budget squeeze I see are the camera/lens plates which run $40+ a piece...it's expensive, but you'll be floored with how easy and solid a connection they provide. If you end up at some point using tubes and/or diopters a focusing slider is also very helpful, I picked up the RRS B-2 for $65 as a simple/lightweight option.

[arnabdas]

Of my 4 tripods two are Gitzo Explorers - the G2228 CF and the G2220 Aluminium. I think the Explorers are eminently suited for macro work and the G2220 in particular is a terrific bargain. Couple this with an Acratech head and you have the ideal macro support!

 

If the price of Acratech seems too high, you can look into a Kaiser Pro ballhead. But I would still recommend the above combo, it will be perfectly at par with rest of your gear.

[stu carnie]

Thanks to all who responded - I looked at the Gitzo Explorer 2220 and 2227, both of which look great.

 

Is the extra expense of the CF 2227 worth the price difference?

 

Cheers,

 

Stuart

[mcgarity]

There are some that say carbon fiber dampens vibration better than aluminum. I haven't found any problems with aluminum in that regard so for me personally its a non issue.

 

Carbon fiber is also lighter than aluminum. But in the case of the Explorer line the G-2227 is only six ounces lighter than the G-2220. I just can't bring myself to believe that small a weight differential means much. The day I can't carry an additional six ounces is the day I will give up photography.

 

Carbon fiber is easier on the fingers in cold weather than aluminum. But a little foam padding like you put over water pipes will solve that problem. Besides thats why they make gloves. I use the G-2220 at extremely cold temperatures and its not been an issue for me.

 

One other thing you might consider aluminum may be more durable than carbon fiber if you are rough on equipment. If you hit it just right carbon fiber can shatter on you. I don't know of anyone that has actually had that happen though.

 

In the end both the G2220 and G2227 are excellent pieces of equipment and either will do the job and do it well. Both will probably be still be going strong long after you aren't. I don't think there is any right or wrong choice.

[stu carnie]

Larry - your comments are greatly appreciated. I will go for the G2220 - and I feel very good about it, having researched the last week and read continual glowing reviews for the Gitzo.

 

Now I must choose a ball head :)

 

I'm also going to attempt some sunset shots, whilst on the Big Island, and have read the reasons for common under-exposure problems.

 

Questions

1. Is a light meter necessary, or is the 9% spot metering on my EOS 10D okay?

 

2. Are Neutral Density filters worth considering for the shot?

 

3. What is the safest approach for framing a shot with the sun in it (sunrise or sunset), to protect both the camera and one's eyes?

 

Kind Regards,

 

Stuart

[joseph_smith3]

For sunrises and sunsets make sure you have no filters on your lens. The smallest f stops will give you a star burst effect. GNDS are very useful and needed for good landscapes shots where the light can vary by three to six f stops from the foreground to the horizon. Do not look at the sun with a telephoto lens on your camera. Eye damange could result. Use a double bubble in your hot shoe to get perfectly flat horizons. Joe Smith

[mcgarity]

"Is a light meter necessary, or is the 9% spot metering on my EOS 10D okay?"

 

A light meter is not necessary. And I wouldn't worry about spot metering either. What I would do if I were you is use the histogram display on your camera to determine exposure. Thats the best way to insure you have the proper exposure.

 

"Are Neutral Density filters worth considering for the shot?"

 

Absolutely. Polarizers too. Or a combination of both with your lens stepped down to between f11 and f16. If you do that you slow down exposure time and that can give you motion in the clouds which can make for some very interesting images. See this image taken with a polarizer and a neutral density filter to see what I mean.

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/4024150

 

Graduated neutral density filters can be hard to use. A much better way is to bracket your shots and expose one for the sky and the other for the landscape. You can then blend them in photoshop quite easily. You can dramatically extend exposure latitude that way. Its very easy to do. I will be glad to provide you step by step instructions if you don't know how. Using a tripod is essential and you need to use the same aperture for both shots. Your camera has a in exposure bracketing capability which makes bracketing a very easy thing to do.

 

"What is the safest approach for framing a shot with the sun in it (sunrise or sunset), to protect both the camera and one's eyes?"

 

I don't do this and you you need to be extremely careful if you try. The only way I would shoot with the sun in the frame itself is if it were literally touching the horizon and I could look at it directly without going blind. And even then I would use stack a couple of neutral density filters on the camera. And as someone already pointed out that does raise the possiblity of flare.

[stu carnie]

Thanks again for all the help - I will definitely look for a couple of ND filters.

 

Larry -

That is a picturesque shot - I want to be there :) I would also be interested to hear how the 16x24 prints come out, since I have the same sensor as you. I've printed 12x18 size shots from Adorama and was very pleased with the outcome.

 

Regarding the bracketing technique. I have read of this in Photoshop 7 Artistry (Barry Haynes) and was intrigued, so I would defintely be interested in any tips you have.

 

Cheers and again thank you,

 

Stuart

[mcgarity]

Thank you Stuart. I just sent you an email detailing how to blend two bracketed exposures.

[stu carnie]

Thanks to all of you for assistance.

 

For those interested I ended up with:

 

Gitzo G2220 Tripod with the Acratech ball head and an Adorama padded tripod bag.

 

Cheers,

 

Stuart