mike_h5 Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 It's starting to rain often in california now, and it's cloudy more often than not. So I was thinking about buying a UV light. But I'm not sure if that would work the same way as the sun. <p> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Fluorescent_Black- Light_spectrum_with_peaks_labelled.gif">Wikipedia shows a wavelength chart of black light<a> <p> <p>Would these wavelengths neutralize the yellowing? <p> I bought an SMC Takumar 50mm F/1.4 lens at first with the yellowing. I put it outside for about two weeks and it cleared up mostly, but still has a bit of yellowing. I later bought a Super- Multi-Coated Takmuar 50mm F/1.4 lens when hearing that these slightly older lenses have no yellowing. But again there is yellowing. I also have a Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 35mm F/2 that's yellowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinder Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 What about getting your dentist to use thier high powered uv curing light on the lens for a minute or so? They also have the benifit of being very concentrated so you can reduce the exposure to the plastic parts. It is worth asking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew robertson Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 That's OK. You'll still get enough UV into the lens even with clouds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg_erker Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 I recall that people on the Pentax Discuss mailing list have de-yellowed their lenses by exposing them to sunlight for a while (a week or two maybe?). Just make sure the lens can't focus the sun's image onto something and start a fire. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_h5 Posted October 27, 2005 Author Share Posted October 27, 2005 So would the black light work? I'm thinking about buying a cold cathode UV light. It only costs $6 for two tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_fromm1 Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 I've cleared three Taylor, Taylor, Hobson process lenses using a 20w coiled BLB fluorescent tube. It took about two months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_briggs2 Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 <p>I've greatly reduced the amber color of an Aero-Ektar and an 35 mm f1.4 Nikkor using BLB fluorescent bulbs. It takes a long exposure -- weeks. The screwmount 50 mm Takumar that I have measured with a Geiger count is much radioactive in the back -- the count rate is surprisingly high for the size of the lens -- my guess is the rear most glass element is the one with thorium. I'd try exposing the lens from the back. If you exposed from the front, some of the UV light might be absorbed by the glass or coatings because it reached the thorium glass.</p> <p>Here are some previous threads: <i>Aero-Ektars: Does UV light remove the brown stain?</i> at <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005obo">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005obo</a>, <i>Yellowed Takumar a Good Thing?</i> at <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00D80Y">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00D80Y</a> and <i>yellowish cast looking through 35mm f1.4 [Nikkor]</i> at <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0054IM">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0054IM</a>. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now