Agfa Karat 36 (boy, did I screw up)

[Troll]

Does anyone know what a 50mm f:2.8 Solinar lens is? I just bought

an Agfa Karat 36 off ebay. Somehow I missed reading the "additional

information" at the bottom of the ad which stated clearly that it

had a 50mm f:2.8 Solinar lens. I had thought that they all came

with 50mm f:2.0 lens, either a Heligon or Xenon (sometimes rebadged

at a Solinar). So I wasn't paying attention, but fortunately am out

only fifty seven bucks. Gawd, I hope that it's at least coated.

Thanks, Guys, and please don't laugh too hard at me.

[canfred]

Hi Bill , relax the Solinar is the top Agfa lens from around that time.

The lens is a very well corrected Tessar design. The Karat 36 appeared in 1948 so the lens is coated for sure.

[mdcarma]

I've got a pair of Karat 36's loaded up now. One is a Xenon f2 in a Compur Rapid, the other is the Solinar f2.8 in a Synchro Compur. I'll post the results when I finish the rolls, assuming I get crapshots worth posting. Really don't think I'll see that much difference in the cameras.

[michael schub]

The Karat 36 are wonderful undervalued cameras; all the lenses are coated and all are good. Enjoy

[david_f._stein]

Great handling cameras. One of the best European cameras of its type and era, with all due respect to Dr. Nagel. You will enjoy it, Bill.

[thomas_vaehrmann]

Hi Bill,

 

Solinar is a Tessar-Clone, Agfa's six-lenser was named Solagon. Both perform well, have fun!

[peter_naylor1]

Hi, Bill Relax, mate - like the other guys have said, you've got yourself a very underrated "classic" with that AGFA Karat 36. OK, so the f2.8 Solinar isn't as quick as the f2 Heligon, Xenon and Solagon variants, but it's still a damn fine lens, fitted to a damn fine camera. Some day the rest of the collecting world will catch up on the Karats, especially the post-war ones, and that 57 bucks will seem like a bargain.

 

BTW, Jurgen Nau has a fantastic website on the whole Karat Story from 1936 to 1957 at www.die-karat.de, with a depth of detail you just wouldn't believe. Unfortunately it's only "auf deutsch" at the moment, but if you access it through a Google search rather than a direct web entry, you can get a computerised translation into english. OK, we know these computer translations come up with a bit of gobbledegook now and again, but usually they're not too bad. ~~PN~~

[charles_stobbs3]

In terms of price, among Agfa lenses Solinars usually cost the most, Apotars are medium and Agnars bring the least money. This is mostly due to buzz and how much difference there is in quality of results I have no data.

[dan_fromm2]

Solinar = Tessar. Solagon = Xenon = Heligon = 6/4 double Gauss.

[Troll]

Well, Guys, it arrived today and it is BEAUTIFUL! Everything works, but more stiffly than any camera that I've ever used. Guess that I'll drop it off at my local camera repair person for a good $75 CLA. This really looks like a winner. I'll report back later.

[peter_naylor1]

Hi Again, Bill Glad you're pleased with your new acquisition - welcome to the Karat Klub, mate! Your comment about the stiffness of controls is a common affliction with AGFAs unfortunately, and in a lot of cases manifests itself as a totally stuck control not just a stiff one. The usual culprit is the focussing control, but in cameras with uncoupled rangefinders like the Record 111 and Isolette 111 it can be both the focussing control and the RF control.

 

This stiffness or total stuck thing is caused by the Dreaded AGFA Green Grease which breaks down into a sort of gum 40 years plus down the line. However, it's usually not too hard to fix with a bit of DIY, if you want to save on that $75 CLA. First, you need to free things up. I use CRF Electronic Aerosol Cleaner but other guys swear by using lighter fuel. You don't need very much of a squirt to find it starting to free things up. Once you're happy that the movement is now OK all through the range, you need to apply a VERY small amount of oil. Small is important, because you don't want it getting onto the shutter blades. I use the tiniest squirt of "Super-Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Lubricant With Syncolon" aerosol from Synco in NY, but some folks just use plain old sewing machine oil dripped from a needle. Keep moving the control to and fro gently to enable the lubricant to bed into the moving bits. Usually this single application does the trick but I have known a couple of times for the action to have stiffened up the following day, in which case I repeat the process. Prewar Karats seem to be the worst offenders for this. ~~PN~~

[Troll]

Thanks for the information and advice, Peter. I have a local repairman who really does great work for quite reasonable prices, so I'll just take it to him for a good going over. Interestingly, one thing that I didn't expect to find on the Karat was a ZEISS WART on the back cover, just like my Contax!

[Troll]

I got the Karat back from repairman (Dave) today. It now focuses as smoothly as a new Elmar, and the film advance is smooth and easy (he said that if it was still a little stiff after I used it a while to bring it back). I asked if he CLA'd the shutter, and he said the speeds were perfect - don't mess with it! He also said that the camera was basically in perfect shape, and it had been a pleaure to work on it. It ended up costing me about $35 (Chicken Alfredo for Dave, and Lasagna for his wife). Incidentally, this is the only camera of that era that I can see the whole viewfinder frame with my glasses on. More later, friends, after I shoot a couple of rolls.

[peter_naylor1]

Bill, it sounds like your repairman Dave did a good job on your Karat 36. Now, get out and do some clicking, eh? By the way, how are you finding the split horizontal rangefinder imaging - a lot of folks find it a bit difficult, after using the more common central "window" type. Personally, I find it easier to use, especially in low light conditions.

 

Good luck with the Karat, and if you're stuck on anything regarding its operating, I have an original owner's IM that I can scan and send. Don't forget to have a look at that website I mentioned in my earlier post - it's well worth it, even allowing for the additional translation time. ~~PN~~

[four feathers]

Hi,

I myself have just purchased an agfa karat 36 from e-bay.

My husband gave me an gfa optima ll S for Christmas past. I love that little camera granted you can't do things with it like a digital camera, but I have to give credit to these little guys, they are a great camera and the datail they capture especially in B & W, amazing, I am going to only shhot in B & W with both.

I was just wanting to know if anynoe can give me information on getting filters for both cameras, also I am in need of other things for my optima.

Thanks in advance.

Jen

[abraxsis]

I just got ahold of a KARAT 36 today as well. Condition whise it is in perfect shape. Mechanically, there is teh dreaded focus ring sticking problem, plus the shutter seems to be stuck in the open position. Everything else on the camera is flawless, in fact I dont think I have ever seen a more pristine lens on a camera of its age.

I know the lighter fluid trick for the focus ring, but do i need to loosen up the shutter blades as well? I this something I could do? I just have my Autocord CLA'd. so Id really like to hold off dropping 70.00 on this camera if I can do it myself. Any suggestions?

[scott_cogburn1]

I have an Ansco Karomat (same as the Karat 36), and the focus and advance is quite stiff. I'm considering removing the shutter assembly and cleaning out all of the old grease. I've done that with a few other 1950s helical-focused cameras, but never on a folding camera with helical focusing. The Karat/Karomat seems to have a more complex and delicate shutter-cocking and release linkage than non-folding camera.

 

Any good tips on re-assembly?

[red_robin]

<p>Hello folks, I've tried that German site. No luck, all I seem to pull up is a collection of pictures. Is there another way to type in <a href="http://www.die-karat.de">www.die-karat.de</a> ? I must be doing something wrong. Thanks, RED R.</p>