Help moving back to an older body.

[wayne_crider4]

Last night a friend of mine showed me an older FE body, and after

looking it over I thought it was the cat's meow. Small, light,

exposure comp dial, nice easy stop down lever, decent flash sync. The

one thing that it didn't seem to have that I would like is flash ttl

and a higher shutter speed. I love the size of the camera tho and am

wondering what body would maintain the size & features, (I like the

meter needle) plus give me flash ttl and a higher shutter speed. From

the little reading I've done it appears maybe the FE2 or the FA which

was apparently the first version of matrix metering, and maybe not

that good. What are your choices?

[bruce_rubenstein___nyc]

My personal preference is the FE2. It has TTL and higher top and sync shutter speeds. It's also a bit lighter than the FE and the mirror is better damped. I had a FA and didn't care for the viewfinder info displays. Since I only use Av and manual the extra modes of the FA didn't do anything for me and I didn't need the extra weight. The grip on the FA is nice. If you wear glasses, the lower viewfinder magnification of the FA (higher eyepoint) could be a plus. Oh last thing: the FA doesn't have AE lock which is handy to have at times.

[ShunCheung]

Either the EF2 or the current model in production, the FM3a, will give you TTL flash and 1/4000 sec. The entire FM/FE series cameras are otherwise very similar, especially in terms of appearance and handling, dating back to the original 1977 FM. Natuarlly, the newer ones have some newer features.

[erik_loza]

Unless you're set on a manual body, have you considered the N90s/F90x? Size and

weight-wise, only a little bit bigger than what you're looking at. Even if AF is not a priority

for you, these guys make excellent MF cameras. Snappy viewfinder with electronic

rangefinder, high-eyepoint for glasses wearers, ergonomically better (IMHO) than most of

the boxey metal bodies, plus a legitimate spot meter (a critical feature for me, at least...)

and more TTL flash options than you could know what to do with. Complete backward

compatibility with any of the lenses/ flashes that you probably already have.

 

I mention this because I have coincidentally been thinking about another small body +

manual lens to keep in the day pack as a "walking around" kit and have been looking at

FA's, etc. The F90x was my first Nikon SLR and I retired that body to my brother when I

moved away from California a couple of years ago. That was a fantastic camera to work

with, I miss it, and I may buy another one. I only mention this to you because these guys

are cheaper than dirt on the used market today: You can have your pick for >$175, while

FA's still seem to be hovering around $225-$250. Might be worth looking into for you.

Good luck in your search.

[ac_gordon]

An F4 without the large battery pack (i forget the designation) would be another option if you did not mind the extra weight and somewhat larger size. I have owned both the FE2 and FM3a, and I agree with Shun that they are very similar. If you go with the FE2, or any other older Fxx series camera, make sure that its shutter is working properly. Many have shutters with honeycomb patterns, and the faster shutter speeds sometimes get out of whack as the shutter wears. I may be wrong, but I think that later FE2's use plain shutter blades like the current FM3's that have proven to be more reliable. I personally preferred the FM3 because it was new and had a mechanical shutter that would work even if the battery for the meter died.

[wayne_crider4]

Eric I shot a 8008s for a few years; not too different from the N90 so I know what your speaking of. I find tho that I would prefer a manual focus solid body, and this purchase will be for a carry camera in the truck. I wouldn't want to throw around my N80 as I don't think it could take the abuse.

[russ_butner___portland__or]

The FE-2 is a great, and reliable camera. Go for it!

 

Russ

[gary_watson]

The only real choice is the FM3A. I love the little FE(own 2)for its size, features and ergonomics, though I really don't miss the TTL flash--other, newer options like the N90S do all that better, anyway, for not much more $--or the faster shutter speed. Still, they're all getting older, so the FM3A seems like a long-run solution for your manual camera lust. Frankly, I doubt whether Nikon sees much of a future for the FM3A and wonder whether it will be dropped next year.I lucked into a NOS F3HP last year and justified its purchase with the "buy-now-or-regret-it-forever" argument. I'd be looking at the FM3A the same way if I were Wayne.

[wayne_crider4]

Completed sales on the FM3A's run over $350 and there are alot more non-completd in the $400-$500 range. As it is I can buy a FE2 in top condition for less then $200. At the higher price's of an FM3A I'm not far from the cost of a new Tachihara 4x5, so I would rather spend the money there then on a 35mm camera.

[david_h._hartman]

<em>The only real choice is the FM3A. --Gary

Watson<br>

</em><br>

The FM3a and FE2 are very close. The primary advantage to the FM3a

is the hybrid shutter that allows all shutter speeds without

batteries and TTL flash from ISO 12 to 1,000. The FE2 is limited

to 25 to 400. There is also a back light button on the FM3a and a

few less important improvements.<br>

<br>

Some thought that the FM3a might be cheapened internally. A

camera repairman friend confirms that the FM3a is built to the

same high standards as the FE2. The FM3a is not an improved FM2n.

It is an FE family camera. Internally the FM3a has the new

shutter, a new flex that services buttons in new locations and DX

(which I would not use) in film cassette chamber, otherwise its

an FE2.<br>

<br>

The FE2s advantages are quarts timed manual shutter speeds

and shutter speeds down to 8 seconds rather than only down to 1

second. The FE2 only offers 1/250 and B without batteries. Spare

batteries are easy to carry in ones wallet so this is not

an issue for photographers who normally shoot a temperatures

where one can breath in relative comfort.<br>

<br>

If you are planning to freeze your butt off the FM3a is the clear

choice. Otherwise its up to you. I would preferred the FM3a

if I were buying now but I own five FE2(s) so Im stuck. I

do like those manual speeds between 1 second and 8 seconds.<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

[ebogaerts]

The FA's matrix metering (actually first referred to as "Automatic Multi Pattern") is definetly Nikon's first entry with this technology. The AMP never once gave me a bad exposure in anything other than very complex lighting situations, and in those I reverted to center. The FA is really nice in a way for manual focus lenses because not only does it do matrix metering with "genuine" AI and AIS manual glass, but it also can do program and shutter priority with pretty much any Nikkor lens ever made (it achieves this with older-than-AIS glass through a stop down exposure trick)

 

What I missed when I went from the FE2 to an FA was the metering "needle" to the left of the screen along with all of the shutter speeds. The FA goes for the LCD, which is very different. And then the lack of the exposure lock button.

 

In terms of reliability, the FA shares the same shutter and shutter system as the FE2, so the internal mechanics are basically the same. The electronics and chips between the two cameras are different, however, and the FA has this stigma of being "unreliable" since some of the very first FA's off of the line had major failures with the computer chips. This was apparently very quickly rectified by Nikon but the damage had already been done.

[cliff_lesergent]

<i>"Frankly, I doubt whether Nikon sees much of a future for the FM3A and wonder whether it will be dropped next year"</i><p>

According to Nikon Canada, the FM3A was discontinued earlier this year. They are no longer available new, other than the existing inventory on dealer's shelves.

[wayne_crider4]

Thanks everyone. I'll be looking for an FE2.